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-   2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech (https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/)
-   -   95 blazer has to be jumped to start?!?! (https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/95-blazer-has-jumped-start-85704/)

PhantomZ 05-13-2014 01:55 PM

Well gotta an update: sorry it's taken so long for me to update been a bit crazy.. so i finally got a fuel pressure test done it topped out at about 20 psi so yesterday i went though and changed the fuel pump and filter. still won't start doesn't even help jumping it anymore. have no idea where to check now..

DimeBlazr 05-13-2014 02:08 PM

Do you hear the fuel pump running? Maybe a bad wire going to the pump? Also, on the 95 the pump and sending unit were seperate parts i think? Do you just replace the pump motor itself or was it the whole thing with wires, level sensor and hose connections?

PhantomZ 05-13-2014 06:16 PM

ya you can hear the pump going. It's a separate pump and sock assembly. double checked my lines today to make sure i put them in the right place, there good. have spark at the coil.

DimeBlazr 05-13-2014 06:29 PM

Does the tailpipe smell gassy after you've cranked? Next thing to check if you have spark and the fuel pump is assumed to be good and making correct pressure is make sure you have pulse at the injectors, you should be able to find the harness and check for pulse with a test light while cranking but you will need a diagram of the pinout for the connector and wire colors to know what youre testing, maybe someone else has them handy, i havent worked on one of those for a long time. Also, how does the oil smell? Gassy at all? Have you tried starting it with the gas pedal on the floor ("Clear Flood" mode) Maybe you have a ruptured fuel pressure regulator diaphragm and the new pump is flooding it? Sorry man, wish you were having better luck!

PhantomZ 05-14-2014 06:55 AM

Don't smell any gas at the exhaust. I checked the oil and it was fine and didn't smell like gas either, that was my concern as well. You mean to check to see if the injectors are getting voltage right? Hmm ya i'll have to check that tried the relays yesterday swapped the pump relay with the horn since there the same and same thing.. ya kinda sucks only had thing since the 28th of last monthe and been able to drive it maybe an hour..I really appreciate the help!! any ideas better then having to take it to a shop i know i can't afford..lol

DimeBlazr 05-14-2014 07:18 AM

Yep checking for voltage at the injectors, ground a test light and backprobe the connector. Also can you get fuel pressure checked again with the new pump? Aftermarket pumps are known to be junk right out of the box about 15-20% of the time and with the small window of specified pressure you can't assume that its correct, also its possible that the fuel pressure regulator could just be stuck open allowing fuel to return to the tank, this would happen if the spring inside it breaks.

Can you try spraying some starting fluid in the intake, open the throttle plate and spray a good 2 second shot in there and then pop the intake tube back on quick and try starting, that would be an easier test to see if you arent getting fuel, be careful though, fire is possible so be prepared just in case. If it fires up and then stalls you still arent getting fuel, if still nothing then you need to look at other stuff.

DimeBlazr 05-14-2014 08:37 AM

3 Attachment(s)
I stole this picture from another thread by Cidium about replacing the spider injector and added the caption, its shows where to find the injector connector. Blue and red wires, unplug the connector and probe both wires on the computer side of the harness at the same time with a test light and you should get a blinking light when cranking, this is the safest way to test it, you may have to rig something to connect the test light to both wires though but be careful not to short them together. The only other way is to probe with the test light connected to power or ground but its risky because you can send power into the computers injector driver and fry it real easy. You could also do an ohm test on the pins going to the intake (injector) side of the connector, Resistance should be 1.9 to 2.1 Ohms. If you have pulse to the injector and the injector resistance checks out ok and you can get it to start by spraying starting fluid in it then you still arent getting enough pressure from the pump or the regulator is stuck open. Theres some more things to try, let me know how they turn out.

PhantomZ 05-14-2014 11:01 AM

Ok cool.. that pic helps alot! the pcv valve is disconnected on mine as well, been trying to figure out where it went and now i have an idea lol.

DimeBlazr 05-14-2014 11:08 AM

Yeah make sure the pcv valve is hooked up, if the hose is unhooked and not plugged it makes a big vacuum leak and will cause high idle, stalling and probably contribute to hard starting too.

05-14-2014 11:12 AM

I don't read any place that you have taken the plenum off, it's so simple a dumb ass like me can do it in less then half an hour. You realy only need a deep socket 10mm. If you see shiny gold spots that's were its leaking. Main fuel lines in there like to go for some reason they call it the nut kit. There on drivers side. FPR likes to and that's on the pass side of the cpi. Both parts are not terribly expensive and not hard to replace. Dorman makes them so that tells me they go a lot.


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