I am at a loss, it all started when I let my brother drive my blazer...

He said it went glug glug and stopped, like it ran out of gas, so I went with gas and nothing, didnt start...maybe starter?

Replaced starter, still nothing... So I though fuel filter, nope not that either...

Next was: injectors, egr valve, throttle position sensor, mass air flow sensor... at this point it ran sorta as long as we hand fed gas into throttle body.

Had a feeling timing was out?\
went and got a code reader it was saying P0101 P0102... so got MAP sensor, purge sensor, idle control sensor, and new spark plugs...

had it going BARELY!!! had to flutter the pedal to make it go and then it would loose power, this was on like a mile test drive, after nursing her back home i could not get her to start...

maybe timing? so I got a timing lite seen timing was out 2 degrees retarded, took to buddy he did timing chain and gears... (said teeth were missing and it was sloppy) then he said fuel pump was not pumping enough so new fuel pump (in tank)

had it running for about 3 miles and it died

SO, now there is no spark, says he put in new distributer? still nothing! now, if you "wiggle" the wire by the coil (guess its a pick up wire) it seems to spark for a second but wont start?(used timing lite to see if there was spark)

I am a female, and dont know much about cars, but am tring to figure this out. I spoke to my father and he said maybe crank shaft sensor, but he lives far away and cant make it here to help, my buddies are at a loss as am I...

PLEASE HELP! I LOVE MY BLAZER

 

Take it to an official reputable mechanic and have it professionally diagnosed at the least and preferably fixed there as well. You have already replaced way more parts then needed without properly diagnosing the problem first to determine that those parts were in fact bad.

injector assembly = $300
EGR = $160
TPS = $30
MAF sensor = you shouldn't have one on this year truck
MAP sensor = $40
purge solenoid = $45
IAC valve = $69
spark plugs = $45
timing chain and gears ect = $75
fuel pump = $250
new distributor = $230

You have replaced over $1200 worth of good parts just guessing so far. It is well past time to just take it in to a real mechanic.

 

well with the code it gave that is what the parts store said to do, like i said i am a female so i bet they seen me coming, there are no garages around me that can help per say, i can go to a dealer and pay 79 bux an hr but i dont have the funds to so,

i was just asking to see if anyone one had an idea, i have seen on here that there are several users that seem to be able to help others.

 

Really?

cuzmo21, the two codes you are reporting are MAF sensor codes. Take a look at these two threads concerning them and if you have further questions, please post up.
P0101 Explained
P0102 Explained

 

ok dont laugh at me but check and see if your catalytic converter is clogged. I had a 95 s10 do the same damn thing to me. I cursed that truck out for a week fixin **** that didnt need to be fixed, and just frikin confuused until..... My buddy noticed it was rusted and had holes in it, and we cut it off, welded a pipe to fill the gap, and vroom. That was it. That **** was completely blocked, which just screwed everything up

 

A mistake on my part. Though I do stand by the rest. Replacing large dollar amount random parts does not solve anything. It only lightens your pocketbook.

MAF sensor or not, good or bad it would not cause a no spark condition which would be the most pressing issue with this truck for the moment.

Being a female means nothing, I know just as many men as women who cannot even change their own oil. I suggested the shop as the OP specifically stated that they know very little about cars and has already spent a great deal of time and money without results so far. A certified mechanic in this case IS the best solution.

If you really have no mechanics to take this truck to though, then your going to need to carefully diagnose the ignition system before anything else.
If there is no spark to the plugs then that is your first priority to fix as everything else is pointless without it.

The very first thing that you will need to do is buy a Haynes or Chilton manual for your truck. The Chilton manuals are generally more in depth but are not always as easy to locate these days. The books are not expensive and can be found in any decent auto parts store.

Once you have that you will need to go through all the procedures listed in the book for testing each part of the ignition system. From testing the coil, to the wiring harness to the distributor, pickups, ect...
The locations of each component and how to test them will be listed in the book, generally including photo's to help you find and identify many of the parts. Along with what tools you will need to do the job.
Do not start replacing parts again without testing them first or your wallet will end up wishing that you had just gone to the dealer.

Once you have gotten spark once again to all 6 cyl's you will be able to move on to fixing any issues with starting the truck and keeping it running properly.


And yes, I realize that there may very well be countless different threads on this very board that I could point to for each individual component that needs to be checked to solve a no spark condition. The $15 book however is far more convenient for this and something that any driveway mechanic should have for there specific vehicle anyways.

 

ok I got the book so now i will start testing... i did have it going for a few minutes yesterday and then it died, i smelled alot of fuel... like it was leaking out, i checked and didnt see anything

here is a thought, when i replaced the spidar or injectors, they didnt look at all like the ones i took out, could that be an issue? but like AWE said i am going to test and retest elictrical connections...
\
as the cat. convertor, i just had that installed by an exhaust place like 8 months ago, but there again i will bang on it im willing to try anything,,

thanks guys for reading and adding some help