I replaced my radiator and water pump. After getting it back together,I started it. I noticed a trans cooler line wasn't snapped all the way in, and took the lower hose off to get to the line, and popped it in Due to cold rain blowing under the carport, I didn't put the hose back. Today I reconnected the hose, and filled it. It won't start. I tried a shot of starter fluid, and nothing. A couple of the times I tried to start it, it backfired. When I let off the key, it almost acts like it is going to start. I would rather not throw parts I don't have to at it, at the moment. Any ideas how to isolate what the problem is?

 

Possibly the ignition switch has dirty contacts. The clue here is it tries to start when you let off the key while cranking. Need to check the circuits for voltage on the proper terminals at the proper time. https://blazerforum.com/forum/articl...-switch-33465/

 

Hmm, that's a problem I hadn't considered. I do occasionally have the condition where my key gets stuck, and I have to shake the gear shift to release it. I have fire at the coil. It acts almost exactly like it did when the distributor cap needed replaced a couple years ago, except I didn't find any moisture when I pulled the cap off.

In the thread you linked, all the diagrams are way to small for to be able to read, so I guess today, I go searching for clues. Anyone know of a good resource?

 

The ignition switch makes several different connections in each position. They all have to make a good contact for the engine to start, and run. Usually when they fail, you end up with a few different, seemingly non-related, electrical problems.

Could be a distributor cap. These things are real fussy when it comes to caps, they like AC Delco. If the distributor has ever been removed, camshaft retard needs to be checked and adjusted. If the adjustment is off, the air gap between the rotor segment and the cap terminals increases causing crossfire in the cap. If it's off too far, spark will jump around in the cap and cause a no-start situation. Desired spec is zero degrees with a tolerance of +or- 2 degrees. It can be off as much as ~27 degrees and NOT set a DTC in memory. The only way to check it is with a high end scan tool capable of viewing the streaming data. The adustment is made by rotating the distributor.

 

I can't say the distributor has never been out. I have had the truck for 6 years, it hasn't been out in that time. My brave, or stupid neighbor (your call) put his finger over the end of the plug wire as I tried to start it. He got a lil zap, but nothing serious. I pulled the coil wire off the coil, hit the key, and had a hell of a spark. When I sprayed the starter fluid, it didn't act like it ignited at all, and could be smelled at the exhaust.

 

With a good cap, rotor, plug wires, and correct camshaft retard adjustment, spark should be the same at the coil and each plug wire. Good blue, (not orange) spark is necessary. If you had a difference in spark at the plug wire and the coil, I'd first suspect the distributor cap.

 

Distributor cap was the culprit. I guess since the cap was newer than the wires and plugs, I'll be changing them on the next decent weekend.