ABS Light After Replacing Ball Joint
 

So I finally finished putting in that ball joint (thread here), and everything went back together smoothly, or so I thought. When I went out for a test drive, the ABS light was on. Any thoughts on this? While I had the sensor removed from the hub, I had it wrapped in a plastic baggie, so I don't think I got it dirty. I never unplugged the connector, so I'm not sure what happened. I guess I'll take it apart again and clean it with a dry towel, don't know what else to do.

edit: According to the Haynes manual (yeah, I know), the only way to erase ABS trouble codes is with an ABS scan tool. I have a scan tool, but it doesn't read ABS codes. If I somehow clean the sensor and fix what ever the issue was that set the code, how will I know the issue is resolved? Will the light go out? I tried pulling the ABS fuse, and the light stayed on after I checked the connections and cleaned the sensor some more.

Sounds like you're on the right track. Did you try unhooking the battery? Not sure if that will clear abs codes or not though. Make sure the wire didn't get pinched somehow. Never had that happen to me on a ball joint r and r.

abs lights turns off when the problem is fixed.
did you search a little ?
there is a LOT of threads on abs problems due to the gap between the sensor and the ring inside the hub.

check with a DMM for AC milli-volts. shoud be around 350mV if i remember right.

Thanks for the reply.

Are these sensors so sensitive that removing it from the hub damages it? I wanted to test the sensor with my voltmeter, but I misplaced the leads for it. I just found them now, but I already started having a few beers, so it will have to wait until later. The fact that the light came on (any has stayed on since) as soon as I started the truck, it is in all probability just not reading the sensor? Also, will having a bum sensor be a problem with normal driving? I took it for a couple test drives (not highway speeds though), and everything seems okay.

If the problem IS the gap between the sensor and the ring in the hub, what can be sone about that? Tightening/loosening the hex nut?

Dont discount the possibility that the other side is bad even though you didnt touch it. Crap happens

As to getting it closer, typical filing/scraping paradigm. and no, it should affect your braking except ABS wont work

So it looks like I may have damaged the sensor when working with the ball joints. I am getting no volts at all when turning the wheel by hand, and infinite resistance at the connector. Unless I'm doing it wrong (just connect the probes of the multimeter to the to the two conductors in the connector?). I will try testing more just to be sure though.

I have a question about the replacement sensor. I was looking at the various websites for the part, and on Amazon the two reviews for the sensor say that it is too long and hits the sensor wheel in the hub. Also on Rock Auto, the description for the AC Delco sensor also states that the sensor may be too long and the whole hub has to be replaced. WTF? Am I just looking at the wrong parts here?

Here's what i would do: I would turn the hub slowly with the sensor out until a tooth is directly lined up. Then I would carefully insert the sensor and see if it felt like it hit. Then I would add washers between the sensor and hub until it didnt hit.

But that's just me.

Hmm, that's a good idea. The only thing I'd be afraid of is contamination in the sensor hole, since the mounting screw is offset from the sensor probe. I was looking at new hubs for the heck of it, and Amazon has one for only 50 bucks or so with the sensor already installed. Might be a POS though. Rock auto only has AC Delco for $200. Other stores $100 -$150.
Not quite ready to condemn the sensor yet. Going outside now to test more to be sure.

Hmmm what do you do when you have a hole and you dont want to let junk in that hole?!!!

I'd think of something like silicone rtv
Not like that is hermetically sealed, anyway.

Yes you are right. I am dumb or something I guess. Thanks.

I poked and prodded again with the voltmeter, and still nothing so I guess it is the sensor. I really want to fix this, but the only place that has it in stock around here is Advance, and they want almost $70 for just the sensor. I can get it for half that online, so it looks like I'm ordering it.