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AC Compressor Bad?

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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 02:37 PM
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Default AC Compressor Bad?

Hey everyone. Well I was driving the Jimmy today in the 100 degree heat and I noticed that the A/C was not blowing cold air. Barely cool. I had just recharged it a few months ago and added a bit of oil as there is a slow leak somewhere that has been there longer than I had this truck (Nov 2007). Then as I got moving, it got cooler, but then warmed up when I stopped. I was hearing louder than normal and lower pitched pumping noises coming from under the hood after driving about 5 miles. Then when I got back home, I decided to check the low side pressure and it was off the gauge's scale. I tried another and it was well over 100 PSI (in the red zone). The noise seemed to be coming from the compressor and got worse after that drive and it went away when the A/C was off. Am I looking at a bad compressor? If so, how do I replace it myself? I cannot and will not be extorted by any of these local mechanics to replace it in the middle of the hottest summer in years. In the interim, will I be better off replacing the compressor with a bypass pulley? Which parts need to be replaced other than the compressor? I understand there are warranty requirements. Thanks
 
Old Jul 17, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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Compressor going **** up is a definite possibility. Unless you plan on discharging your refrigerant into the air (both illegal and unethical), you're going to have to have it evacuated and stored. Replacing the compressor is fairly simple... loosen the belt, disconnect the refrigerant lines, unbolt the compressor, add PAG to the compressor, installation is the reverse of removal. You'll need to replace your accumulator, as well - it contains a desiccant to prevent refrigerant which has not returned to vapor form from reaching the compressor. Exposed to atmospheric air, it becomes fully saturated and useless in a manner of minutes. You'll also need to pull a vacuum on the AC system before you unseal the new accumulator.
AC repairs are expensive, and there's a legitimate reason for that.
 
Old Jul 17, 2013 | 03:08 PM
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I would also replace the orfice tube as well since the accumulator has to come off its right there If my memory is correct.... It's only a couple of bucks. I agree with witching hour really straight forward. Good luck and post back with results or questions 😁
 
Old Jul 17, 2013 | 03:48 PM
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Old Jul 17, 2013 | 06:11 PM
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basically you gotta spend some mad dough on parts etc. if you choose to not have ac,you can get a ac pulley for 50 bucks. have a shop pull the 134 for ya. if they charge u move on,call around. ones here wont,as they will reuse it and save money. swap the compressor and be done with it.

A tip,i did this to my friends astro van. the bolts provided was too small. take your old bolts to a hardware store and find shorter ones.
 
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 02:43 AM
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I know this is not going to be cheap, but who says it has to be insanely expensive at the same time? I checked RockAuto for prices and maybe Amazon has the same parts for cheaper. I have Prime so I can do 2 day shipping.
On Rockauto:
Delphi Compressor (no core charge): $163.79
Orifice Tube: under $5
Delphi Accumulator: $16.45
Refrigerant: $10 each can (needs 2 or 3 cans?) = $30
Oil: $8 per can

Maybe I can get this done for under $250 in parts but then there still is the question of evacuating the system and pulling a vacuum on it once the new parts are in. How do I do that without taking it somewhere? Autozone seems to have vacuum pumps as part of their tool loan program. I do want to have A/C even though this is my second truck now, so bypass pulley is not an option unless it is temporary. Considering that removing the compressor would make the truck undriveable without the belt, I don't want some crooked mechanic holding my truck hostage and taking the compressor apart without authorization. Mechanics in this area are excessively expensive and their honesty is rock bottom.

Also is there a definite way to confirm a bad compressor? Also if I decide to go ahead and replace the compressor, accumulator and orifice tube, which order should I do it in and is there a special procedure to follow? Also where is the orifice tube on the 98? Thanks
 

Last edited by ComputerNerdBD; Jul 18, 2013 at 02:57 AM.
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 03:19 AM
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A high pressure reading on the low side could also indicate a restriction in the system so replacing the components listed is cheap insurance. Another problem I have encountered at least with aluminum housing compressors is they tend to send more particles as they wear into the rest of the system. Since it sounds like your compressor has not yet seized, may not be an issue but I usually disconnect the lines and flush the evaporator and condenser and then replace all the O rings.
 
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Harley Bob
I usually disconnect the lines and flush the evaporator and condenser and then replace all the O rings.
How do you flush the evaporator and condenser ? Air? Water? Special "something"?
 
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by WitchingHour
You'll also need to pull a vacuum on the AC system before you unseal the new accumulator.
Trying to visualize this .... is there a way to install the new accumulator while it is "unsealed"?
 
Old Jul 18, 2013 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ComputerNerdBD
Maybe I can get this done for under $250 in parts
I saw on eBay a "kit" for under $200, with all the same parts you listed.


98 blazer compressor kit | eBay
 



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