2000 Chevy Blazer LS 4.3L Automatic

Someone attempted to steal my car and for whatever reason they couldn't get it started. I'm guessing their tool broke off in the key cylinder since my key wouldn't go in very far. So, I took off the sir, wheel, locking plate, took off the lock cylinder housing, replaced the cylinder and put the housing back on and plugged everything in. I'm assuming I did everything right following some youtube videos out there. I have not put the wheel, sir, or lock plate back on yet in case their is something else I need to do.

Now, the gear light and odometer light along with the security flashing light are always on (that's actually how I found it and was that way before I did anything to it). I can get the starter to crank and it sounds like it wants to start but then it putters and dies. Sounds as if it's out of gas but I put a gallon in it just to be sure.

The car has always started and ran great. No issues other than typical random repairs here and there. I originally took it to a dealership but they quoted $620 for a new cylinder and cylinder housing. I hate paying that much after watching a 20 minute youtube of someone doing the exact same repair. They originally quoted $1500 for everything like the window and a new battery and unfortunately I don't remember what else they may have said for that much.

So, I'm kinda out of ideas here. I was thinking there may be some security issue having put in a new cylinder (I did not replace the housing)? I've heard key on for 10 minutes, off for 5 seconds, on for 10 minutes, off for 5 seconds, on for 10 minutes, then try to start the car. Does that sound like it may be the issue?

Dealership told me the battery wasn't charging. I find it way too convenient for the battery to be bad right when this goes down. I've put it on a 2 amp charge and my charger also has a 50 amp starter range but the car still putters and dies immediately. Could a bad battery really be the issue when I have a 50 amp starter plugged into it?

Maybe a new cylinder housing unit? The unit looks fine but the dealership was adamant that it needed to be replaced but after them quoting $1500 for everything, including the very unlikely battery replacement, I have a hard time believing anything they told me.

And, I doubt this is the issue but I'll throw it out there anyway, Do I need to put on any other part to get the car to start? Air bag? locking plate? None of those parts looked like they'd cause this issue but I'm no expert.

Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Blazer driver for 20 years

 

Blinking security light means that the security lockout has engaged. That means that the car will crank, but you'll have no spark. It's a theft deterrent.

The lockout times out after 10-15 minutes, so if it's flashing, there's no point in trying again for 10-15 minutes..

How to fix it? On a Blazer, I don't know, but on the F-bodys, it usually means a new lock cylinder, or some creative wiring to bypass the "resistor in key" security feature.

Does your key have a little black blob on the metal part of the key? If so, it's probably exactly the same as on the F-bodys.

 

Thanks for the quick response!

No, my old keys and the new keys that came with the new lock cylinder don't have any black blobs on the metal part.

Thanks for the feedback. A quick google search says to turn key to on position for 10 minutes with flashing security light, it'll go solid for a few seconds then turn off, turn key off for 5 seconds then try to start and it should work. I'm assuming this is what saved my car from being stolen so I definitely don't want to bypass it

Thanks for your help.

 

I don't know if I forgot the actual symptoms or what but when I got home and turned the key to the on position the security light flashed once and turned off. No matter what the car would still putter and die even though the security light wasn't flashing.

I decided to follow the relearn procedure anyway (after giving the battery a good charge). Since the security light wasn't flashing (like a lot of articles and videos always talked about) I did 15 minute "on" periods just to be sure. there weren't any dashboard changes in those 15 minutes. On for 15 minutes, off for 30 seconds, on for 15 minutes, off for 30 seconds, on for 15 minutes, off for 30 seconds, then start... car started right up and everything appears to be working normally.

For anyone that stumbles across this (especially if someone tried to steal your car), if everything appears ok with the car and all cables and parts look good and intact do this procedure. It can't hurt anything and it could save you a lot of time, money, and hassle.

Stupid dealership tried to charge me $1500 for a $55 lock cylinder, a $40 quarter window and three hours of time. DIY!

 

Cool. I'm glad you got it sorted