Howdy folks,
I've got a 1999 blazer with a 4 button 4x4 that's giving me trouble. I've done extensive work on this vehicle already, and after replacing the 4x4 shift cable, vac lines, vac switch and actuator, 4button switch and the control computer located in the kickbox on the passengers side....,after all this I was able to get a whopping ONE winter out of the system before it failed again.

Well, winter is coming once more - and I can't ignore this dysfunctional system any longer. As much as I hate it, I've got to dive back in.

To outline the lead-up to failure, I've unfortunately got a very sharp turn uphill on ice in my driveway. I've been told you shouldn't use 4-hi on sharp turns, but alas, necessity lead to me doing so. This cranking of the wheel would occasionally give me a grinding sound when maxed out - but the 4x4 kept on working..until it didn't.

When the 4x4 stopped working it simply flashed forever. Indicating to me that the actuator cable was no longer pulling, or for that matter wasn't pulling far enough. Topping up the oil restored operation for about 2 seconds, then it failed again.

Now, there's this little sensor in the cable assembly on the axle tube that confirms the cable mechanism is pulled out all the way - and I figure that little sensor is telling the truth and isn't the problem. I think either the gear-and-slip-collar assembly inside the axle tube is pooched and has fused together, or the shift cable has detached internally.

When I last had the axle tube disconnected (didnt take it fully off) to install the new 4x4 shift cable, I noticed how if you didnt put it back together just right- the assembly it pulls on wouldn't pull out all the way. I think it's slipped into this state.

So with all this said, my main question is simple - what is the name for the slip-collar + fork assembly in that front tube? I've gotta get in there and I may aswell have the parts on hand to rebuild it in the case that its borked. It's either the cables disconnected on the inside or those insides are jammed for some reason or another.

I've also read here and there about the bravada axle swap- but to my knowledge thats not an option for 4-button 4x4's - correct me if I'm wrong?

appreciate the time ya'll spend advising me- wouldn't have made it through even one winter without you fine folks.

 

I've found diagrams here to be very helpful to identify parts names and part numbers.

BLAZER 4WD - Differential carrier/front axle > Chevrolet EPC Online > Nemiga.com https://share.google/Qv9AxQ4PmzuJoyyGv

I will get a part number there and then check it against what a GM parts retailer says using my VIN.

As for the Bravada axle swap, this would delete the axle engagement mechanism. I think the result is that you end up with a live axle instead of having the equivalent or near equivalent of having two wheels unlocked from a front axle. The only thing that would keep it from binding is if the transfer case were engaged or not.

I believe the Bravada axle swap is popular with off-roaders.

 

Thanks! I was able to identify what I'm looking for as the Front Drive Axle Clutch Sleeve and a Drive Axle Clutch shaft kit - unfortunately the Sleeve runs almost 120$ with the fastest shipping being two weeks. I'd like to take it apart and see if I need it before I buy.. but its my daily beater so I guess I'll just be buying from someplace with a good return policy 🤷-

 

Yikes $120? I had to look this up to confirm. What I found were many for $95 (not including shipping). But then I found this one for under $30!

https://cmgearworks.com/product/gm-c...ont-axle-7-25/

Keep us posted with your work on this.

BTW, I get the issue with having to work on your DD. My backup car is on the fritz at the moment which is keeping me from doing some things to my truck.

 

Holy smokes! Under 30 is a steal - thanks for the find!

 

Finally got around to pulling the whole thing apart. Turns out the failure was the stupid spring clip that retains the actuator cable... -.- I mean I had to replace the passengers side axle seal anyway, so it wasn't that much extra work. I was definitely overthinking it.

 

Congrats!

How was the rest of the job of removing the tube and replacing the seal? It something I think I might need to do.

 

It wasn't too bad, the hardest part was getting it back in with everything lined up properly so the shift fork actually shifted. You'll need to clean the snot out of the mating surfaces as there's not actually a gasket there and You'll have to make one/ slather on silicone.

 

Thanks!!!