Brake Pedal jammed !
 

Hi

i will use my own words and terms cause i am from Germany !! :D

A few days a go i realized that my brake Pedal makes trouble

when i start the Motor i get a airy noise from the left motor side that went similar with the pressure when i pushed the brake pedal down and the noise stopped when the pedal was in the down position ,,,brake function was given and i drove a few days with this gimmick !

My suggestion was ,,,make it a few days and prepaire to bleed the brakes (brake fuel was on minimal) !

During that few days ,,,the way for the pedal was getting harder still the airy noise from the left motor side , barke function still given !

Yesterday ,,,i started the motor ,,i wanted to push the pedal down and worked ,,,,but then i get a kick from the pedal and the pedal went to top position and is still in that position ,,,,and i can push the pedal only a inch ,,,but not further ,,,,brake function is still given ,but very very slow ,,,and the way for the brake pedal is slow !

Remarks :

Chevy Blazer 97

Way for the Brake Pedal is very short and i can feel the pressure

leaking air noise from the left motorside

Brake fluid is on minimal


is there any suggestion from your side !

BMC damaged ??? or a leak in the lines ???




Thx so far

This sounds like your brake vacuum booster is bad. Does your engine idle poorly, especially when you step on the brake pedal?

Second on the brake booster. Check your vacuum connection though. Sometimes the fitting comes apart.

ooohhh ,,,so quik !!!


ok,,,,when i start the Motor ,,,and when i push the pedal ,,, i realize ,,,that the motor ,,,gets a little unround for a few seconds !


greets !!!

Third on the brake booster. It uses engine vacuum to assist brake operation. If it is leaking, it would definitely have an impact on how well the engine was running.

I had this exact problem on an '89 Bronco II. One more test you can do to confirm: Run the engine. Have someone step on the brake. When they do, and the engine runs rough, then pinch off the vacuum line going to the brake booster. If the engine runs smooth again, that's your problem.

you mean the thumb thick sized rubber hose what goes from the brake booster ???


hmmmm just pull ,,,and thats it ,,or need i any tool to loose em ???





btw,,,, i found this ,,,i think this is whats coming up next ,,,for me ,,,is this right ????

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
Removal & Installation
1) Remove master cylinder. See MASTER CYLINDER under
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Ensure no brake fluid contacts ABS control
unit or related electrical connectors and wiring.
2) Disconnect vacuum hose from booster. Disconnect booster
push rod from brake pedal. Remove booster mounting nuts from inside
vehicle. Remove booster and gasket.
3) To install, reverse removal procedure. Bleed brake system
if lines were disconnected from master cylinder. See MANUAL BLEEDING
or PRESSURE BLEEDING under BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM.


please don't get me wrong ,,i am not Mike the Mechanic ,,,i am ambitioned and have the hands on the right sights ,,i got the tools to fix my car ,,,,so is the change a piece of cake or is it better to get ripped ,,,by mike ???? :D



greets from Germany !!!

The rubber hose is the vacuum line. The booster senses when you push the brake pedal and uses engine vacuum to push harder. If the booster is bad, it's like a big vacuum leak when you step on the brake pedal, so the engine will run rough. That's the line you pinch off to see if that's what the problem is. YOu can pinch that line at different places, too, if there are connectors or such in the line; if you pinch the line and the engine runs smooth, the problem is downstream (away from the engine) along that line, and if you pinch it and the engine doesn't run any smoother, the problem is either closer to the engine or in a different vacuum line.

And yes, if your vacuum booster is bad, that's what you're looking at. I don't know if you can remove the master cylinder form the booster in the Blazer without disconnecting the brake lines or not, but if you can, then it's a simple repair (though the mounting bolts are a bit of a pain to get to, from other comments I've seen). On the Bronco II, it was a 1-hour job.

Update !!!

i pinched the line at the power booster ,,,,,and the engine went down , that seems to be ok ..i think because the engine is getting foreign air and the gas mixture is getting thin ,,,,:D my explaination !

ok ,,,i will follow the vakuum line and will check the whole thing to check for any damage!( from power booster to the throttle valve )


Greets George ( NoMechanic)

bring the curtain down !
 

Sorry for delay , but i was on Holiday in Greece !

to close the Theme !

It was def. the POWER BRAKE BOOSTER !

I ordered a new one ,,,delivery 3 Weeks , cost 370 € :icon_hyper:

The Removal ......funny **** !

The Assembly .....same **** !


it took me 2 Hours to release 4 Screws ,,,and knacked my Back

and it took the same time to assemble 4 Srews ,,, but i had no Humpa Lumpas to fix it for me ,,,because my Hands where to big for this little Space !

after all ,,it is fixed ,,,and i made it by my own ,,with your help ,,,thx a lot !

Greets George (NoMechanic)