The engine itself cranks over just fine and after 10 or so seconds when you stop you can hear the engine sputter like it is trying to run?!?!

From this statement above--

I had a Jimmy once that had no ignition voltage during "crank"- only "run" - it was a bad ignition switch- I proved it by jumping 12v to the ignition circuit...

Engine tried to start when I let off the key- went from "crank" to "run" - the engine was still turning when it finally saw the 12v in "run" position and would sputter as you describe.....

 

Just a follow-up to this post. Yesterday I didn't put the duct work back on prior to starting. I tried it again this morning as you described (replacing the duct) and it still didn't start.

 

Yes! It does a funky little sputter after I let off. It does this for only 1 or 2 seconds. It almost sounds/feels like 1 or 2 cylinders only are firing...really light sputter.

Edit:
Interesting because the original starter that I burned up I noticed that if I cranked on it, let it off and then cranked right away it seemed closer to wanting to start. Needless to say, the starter didn't care for this type of "duty" on it and actually started smoking. lol

 

Update: I took the coil and ICM off to have them tested. They both tested ok and from two different stores (just to be on the safe side).

 

That would seem to point to an ignition switch problem then.

 

Swartlkk, I've read on here a bunch of times about the security light being a good sign if the ignition switch is faulty. What exactly should it be doing? I checked mine, it basically comes on when I turn the key to the "on" position as the fuel pump is running. When the pump shuts down the light goes out a second afterwards. When I crank the engine over the light is not on but as soon as I stop and the fuel pump comes back on the security light comes back on and when the pump shuts down the security light goes out a second afterwards.

 

That sounds like the normal functioning of the security light, however, it really depends on what side of the ignition it drops. There are typically two main ignision sources which affect different systems.

 

Thanks again for the help Swart!

I'll be running over to Autozone tomorrow morning to get a new ignition switch. Has anyone done a write-up on how to swap one out? I have been searching (and still searching) for one but don't seem to see one anywhere. Trying to avoid buying a chilton/haynes since I'll be selling the vehicle shortly.

I'll give an update tomorrow if the switch solved the issue or not.

 

Not sure how much it would be like the rest of the 2nd gens. I put the book method up in the Tech Articles (DIY) section.

 

I was just coming back to edit my last post saying I found your DIY write-up in another thread! You beat me to the punch!

For anyone else, here is a link to Swartllk's write-up:

https://blazerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18255