CV Axle 3rd time replacing
 

CV Axle 3rd time replacing...

My Cv axle boot shoot grease out when I cranked my TD bars...so i decided to do a Rough Country 2in lift and buy new CV Axles form advanced auto part (brand GP). Drivers side shoot grease out the inner and outer boots in about a month. I had a lifetime replacement from advanced so i pulled it and swapped it out for another new one. About 2 weeks later (this weekend) when a 4 hour highway trip and the driver side inner (next to the diff) boot shreaded apart and pass has shoot grease everywhere.

I put them in by putting them straight in line into the diff and hitting them on the end with a mini sledge, they went right in.

What I'm I doing wrong installing them???? or is it the quality on the part??? or is it the lift????

Quality of part coupled with the lift. The best thing you can do for the boots is condition the rubber with a silicone spray before you put it in, and again after a few miles. Repeat as needed.

Ive seen plenty of threads around the interwebz about the decrease in quality on aftermarket replacements. But those usually involve the axle itself failing, not just the boot.

Remanufactured OE is where its at.

You also are not helping things with a 2" lift regardless of the choice of components.

Cool thanks guys! So i'm guessing I installed them right, wasn't sure hitting them with a hammer was the right thing to do... but the only way I could see how to do it...

I saw cv axles on JCWhitneys website (dorset brand) and it stated they used neoprene for the boot, Do you all think these would be better? link below

Also, what about the 6in lifts, what do they use for cv axles? maybe I could use those?



http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003650/c-10101

I could be wrong, though I'm 95% certain I'm right, but the 6" suspension lifts also lower the front differential, so the angle of the CV joint is closer to the stock angle than what you have with the lift you've got installed. No differences there. You probably just need a higher quality CV. Or, keep changing out yours with the lifetime replacement. After a while you'll probably master it....:D

Sucks doesn't it? I go through this about every six months or so. I buy them in sets and change both cv axles at the same time. I am pretty good at it now.
The 2" Rough Country suspension puts the cv shafts and inner boots at quite an extreme angle. This causes the inner boots to fail soon thereafter.

My latest solution... I have installed Cordone cv shafts and backed the t-bar adjuster bolts completely out, then installed them at just 2 turns in. My sig below is how it currently looks. So far so good.
Yes, a 6" lift would solve our problems because it lowers the front diff to keep the cv shafts at near factory angles. I cannot find anyone who makes a front diff lowering kit for a 2" lift.

Adjust front chassis ride height back to factory specs and then get a front wheel alignment. Your CV problem will be solved... along with all 4 ball joints, both outer tie rod ends, and all of the universal joints. (Cranking the torsion bars up or down affects all of them.)

Kinda hard for them to set the ride height to factory specs with a 2" suspension lift installed.

This sucks...I spent the money on a "real" lift to not have any problems!

bandidolenny: I was thinking the same thing, maybe lower the diff an inch or 2, I guess something custom. Also lowering the tb's and adding a 2in BL.

This sucks I'm out of money, this started with a leaking cv boot, so why not upgrade! I've got other things to fix.

Exactly my point, and that's what's causing the excessive wear. A suspension lift is NOT the way to accomplish whatever it is you're trying to accomplish. If it's just for "looks", don't worry about it, but if you intend on driving the vehicle, be prepared for expensive on going problems. Just because some company makes a part, doesn't mean it's going to work without consequences.