Does anyone have a guide or how to on how to replace the distributor on an 01 blazer? Ive done some searching here but havent come up with much. Main things I need to know are what tools are needed to get to tdc on compression stroke cyl 1? And is a crankshaft relearn absolutely necessary, if yes what kind of scanner would i need or would any mechanic be able to do it? Just trying to find the cheapest route here, id rather not have to send it off to a mechanic to do all of it, just the relearn if needed. I believe my rotor is hitting the dist cap at certain rpms. Sounds like its clicking/tapping and its most definitely coming from under the dist cap. Truck is a 2001 zr2.

Also where would be the best place to get a new distributor, id like to go with one of the all aluminum ones.

 

before you go anywhere with this replacement I would mark and remove the wires from the cap and pull the cap and take a look...If there is a noise, there should be some evidence as to what is going on-if this is indeed your issue. You could also check it to see if it is loose as well. Make sure..Jerry

 

Disconnect primary coil wires. Take #1 spark plug out. Have someone tap the starter until you start to feel compression with your finger stuck in the hole. There are two marks on the balancer. You want one of them pretty much straight down, and the other lined up with the timing mark on the timing cover. Continue to turn engine by hand (using socket on balancer bolt) until marks are lined up as decribed.


Crankshaft relearn is not necessary unless you disturb or replace the crankshaft sensor.

CMP Retard is the setting for the distributor so the rotor lines up with the right place on the cap when transferring the spark from the rotor to the spark plug wire terminal. It is NOT an adjustment of timing (ignition timing is set exclusively by the crank sensor/PCM and is non-adjustable). Should be 0 ± a couple of degrees if you have it checked. Timing chain stretch and/or distributor gear wear can make this a negative value. To install the distributor, put the engine on TDC#1 and drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing approximately towards the #6 stamped in the housing (the distributor housing is not adjustable from the factory). Spin the engine 2 revolutions, make sure it is fully seated, and check again where the rotor is pointing. If you are a full tooth off, when you start the engine the computer will recognize this through the cam position sensor and set a code (also could possibly run quite poorly with the rotor not pointing exactly where it needs to be). If no code (SES light) is observed, then no problem and you are done, although it is said that further improvements can be made by modifying the distributor clamp into an adjustable one and adjusting the CMP retard to exactly zero. If you want to do that, you will need a scanner capable of reading CMP retard. As this is a custom GM-only PID for Vortec engines, only the more expensive aftermarket OBD2 scanners have the capablity. I have two different software/hardware combos that will read CMP Retard. These are Scan XL Pro at $250 and HP Tuners VCM Scanner at $350. HPTuners will also trigger the crank relearn and do injector balance tests as well as a myriad of other things because it has capability of true bidirectional communication with the PCM.

Remember AC Delco only for cap/rotor/wires. Distributor source I have no preference. I would try to inspect and fix what you have before replacing it. It's a pretty simple device on an 01 Blazer.

Good luck with your repair and best wishes!

 

Easiest way is to line up the second mark on the damper with the notch on the timing chain cover with the old dist in place.The rotor will be pointing right st the molded in "6" on the distributor body if the #1 cylinder is tdc on the compression stroke,if it isn't,rotate the engine a full turn.Just point the rotor at the "6" on the dist body and drop the new dist in place after doing this.

 

^^^ I agree, that's the easiest way to do it. Do not rotate the crankshaft while the distributor is removed!

 

I already did this. I replaced the cap and rotor and the noise got worse. So im assuming the bearing in the dist is going bad.


Id be willing to buy a nice scanner for $350, I was looking at one of the $1000 ones from harbor freight lol

 

If you're talking about HPTuners VCM Scanner, it is a hardware/software combo for a Windows laptop. Hardware plugs into the USB port. Don't know if will work with Windows 8, but probably so. I run it using WinXP 32 bit on an old Asus D150 Netbook. It does the crank relearn and monitors camshaft retard plus has a bunch of solenoid and relay controls and injector balance test, etc. It does not do everything that the Tech2 scanner does, but it does a lot. This software is really a simple spinoff of software originally designed for custom programming PCM software for Hi-po purposes (tuners).

If you want a very good and useful general OBD2 scanner with a lot of custom GM PIDs (not including CMP retard or triggering of crank relearn) for cheap, try Torque Pro for Android ($5) with the $25 BAFX Bluetooth OBD2 adapter (one of the few good Chinese Clones) that is sold on Amazon. Very slick piece of quite professional looking software - its very popular and there are forums for its use. I run it on a Samsung Tablet, and for general use and monitoring stuff while driving it is the best (I only use the others when I need additional features). CMP retard is one of the custom GM PIDs that is not included in the free Torque Pro GM PID package.