i'd almost bet money its the ignition.. first try the graphite.. if it doesnt work then you'll be lookin at a new ignition cylinder... good luck and please post once you have a solution.... I've seen way too many posts that are left with sugestions to fix the problems but barely any that said whether or not they resolved the issue and what their solution was... well again good luck:-)

 

I haven't checked any connections at the starter itself...do you think a bad connection there could be a possibility?

 

Poor connection at the starter would not cause the security light to illuminate.

And just to clarify, the key cylinder is VERY rarely the problem. Much more common on these trucks is the ignition switch (PN I listed above).

 

So the security light should turn off after I disarm? What it does is it turns off, then I open the door and it flashes, I stick the key in and turn it to prime the fuel pump or whatever and all of the dash lights come on as in most cars.-------It happened again today, I drove roughly 35 miles back from work, pulled into the bank to cash my check and came back to start it and, what do ya know?-Nothing-Tried inserting the key and leaving it on for no less than 15 minutes to reset,didn't work. I unplugged the battery for 10 minutes, didn't work. climbed underneath at the starter and it was scalding hot...tapped on the starter with my helper holding the key in and still nothing. So I pulled the relay and plugged it back in and it started.
My questions are:
1. Is there supposed to be a heat shield between the starter and the exhaust?
2. Could it be that the starter is getting too hot and by coincidence it just so happened to cool off enough at the same time I pulled the relay out? AAAAARRRRGGGHHHH!!!!! LOL Thanx for any help on this![:@]

 

What relay did you pull? It doesn't make sense that disconnecting the battery didn't work, but pulling a relay did. Seems more like coincidence.

I would think that even a hot starter should make some attempt...

 

Well, I know now that you are correct.She's dead in the garage[X(]I'm gonna pull the starter and either take it to autozone, or jump 12 v direct to see if it'll run. This blazer came from ohio so the salt on the roads kinda rusted the under carriage a little(not horrible though). but the starter looks a little weathered. I've made multiple attempts to start her tonight, just adding to my frustration. I have one last question though, is there a specific sequence I should go through when disconnecting the battery with this anti-theft system? I only ask because I installed an amplifier last weekend and had to remove the terminal. And should I do anything special when restoring power? THANX ALOT! Oh! it was the relay marked STARTER under the hood....It was coincidence though.

PS That chevelle looks like an awesome project! Can't wait to see the final product

 

Ive got a stupid question..but did you test the relay .. I mean it never hurts to replace parts with new ones...(well almost never).. tho hey if its that shoddy lookin then I'd replace it too..

 

yeah, the starter looks like crap, the relay looks good though....Also, I have found alot of ppl have had problems like this and it was the ignition switch, Just the way it's acting leads me to believe it's not. Like when it actually decides to turn over, it doesn't want to start, It takes like 6 or 7 seconds for it to fire up. When the problem goes away, it starts like a champ

 

OK, here's the low down. After alot of testing and probing, I've located the problem. The neutral saftey switch is faulty.I started at the starter relay. I jumped the relay to see if I could get the starter to engage...Boom! Starter good! So now I know that the problem is between the ignition switch and the relay.SotthenI took the cover off of the steering column and whipped out the faithful test light to see what I could find there. I found that I had the power to the ignition switch itself and then I found the actuator wire and had power there when in the START position...So that leads me to believe that the neutral saftey switch is faulty. I believe the actuator runs from the ignition switch then to the neutral saftey switch and then to the relay, without the neutral saftey switch working, power is not getting to the relay(Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here). So what I did, being that the neutral saftey switch wasn't in stock anywhere, was ran a wire from the actuator wire in the steering column to the starter relay and there it is! Starts like a champ! Completely by-passed the neutral/saftey switch. Hope this helps anyone having a similar problem. The actuator wire was yellow wire but if you have the redundant steering wheel controls there are 2 yellows, the larger of which is carrying like I wanna say, 4 wires inside of it, that's not the one. I believe that is the radio controls(Not sure though).