Also, another thing to do would be to use DI water (deionized). Especially if you have a well fed water system at home. For the tiny bit of added cost, it will only add life to the coolant.

 

wow, the guys at local shop think my fan clutch is stuck on, i went and bought a new thermostat, and a new clutch for the fan, i should get them both on this weekend, ill keep you all posted....let you know the results

 

The fan clutch is a good point. I forgot about that. [sm=oopssign.gif]

 

I wonder if that is my problem. I never hear it ROAR like my dad's does on his K2500... I get good heat though...

Yeah, a stuck on fan would keep it cool. Basically the only reason why you are seeing the temp rise under WOT is because it takes a certain amount of time for the heat to open the stat, then it'll cool off (can't stay at WOT forever).

Let us know how the repair goes!

 

I'll reply hear instead of your other thread.

You may have air trapped in the system. It is critical that the overflow tank stay at the correct fill levels, when the radiator cools back down it draws fluid from the overflow tank, no fluid and it draws air.

While I was at the dealership buying a flywheel this past weekend I talked to a Tech for a minute. One of the problems with the 2000 S10-Blazers is that the heating-a/c controls get screwed up when the t-case blows the input seal. When the t-case input seal leaks it draws in tranny fluid. That in of itself isn't bad, however when the t-case gets too full, the fluid travels up the vacuum hose and eventually makes its way into the vacuum controls on the heating-a/c system. Not saying your problem is here, however the test is to pull the top plug on the t-case and see if tranny fluid comes shooting out. Some will dribble out, that is normal. However if it seems like it is pouring out, you have a problem.

I hope it is just an air pocket.

 

i will check the transfer this week.... but i really dont see how it plays the transfer and cooling system together, please go more in debth.....

 

The vacuum lines on the t-case are connected to the vacuum system used to control your climate controls in the cab of the truck. The fluid gets sucked up into the lines and permeates throughout the vacuum system. It fills up the vacuum lines in the cab that control your heater-a/c controls. In other words, the vacuum lines get full of tranny fluid and wont allow you to change the settings on the heat-a/c. It messes up the heat-a/c system inside the truck. Has nothing to do with the cooling system, however the heat-a/c controls control how much heat-a/c your cooling system has in the truck. An indirect connection to the cooling system. Not saying that is the case here, just something to be aware of, and it might tie into other issues you may have and not have mentioned.

More then likely your problem is just an air bubble.

 

I had a similar problem..thought it was the heater core but it was replaced 2 1/2 years ago so that narrowed it down. I was getting a smell (like burt mample syrup) and no heat. My mechanic did a pressure test and found to be the intake manifold gasket was leaking. Once that was replaced and the DEC Cool Antifreeze(red) FULLY flusshed and replaced w/ Regular antifreeze(green)...Never had a problem. Heat is outstanding now.

Also, He had also 1st checked the heater hoses going into the firewall towards the heater core to see if one was hooter than the other...everything was fine. Also, when I mean fully flushed the DEC Cool out, he FULLY flushed it out. Drained the old DEC Coolant and ran water until nothing but clear water came out. Then replaced w/ the Regular coolant. DEC coolant sucks...it gunks up the gears and insides and causes more problems than good.

Hope that helps

 

The problem should be that the thermostat is stuck in the open position. I just flushed out my heater core last weekend and I only found dexcool and water, flushed it both ways to make sure. Then I replaced the thermostat and got back my heat.

If you are going to flush the whole system then make sure that you remove the t-stat before you pressurize it. I think this is why my cooling system (t-Stat) quit functioning, plus it was a cheap t-stat, when i pulled it out i found a rubber gasket pulled through the top possibly binding up the works. The only way I think that this could happen is if somebody pressure flushed the system with the t-stat in place...making it stick in the open position.

TIP: You will have to remove the throttle cable mount at the front of the throttle body to get at the back bolt of the t-stat housing.... other than that it is a piece of cake to remove.

 

The only problem with Dexcool is if you get air in the system The air causes the sludge, not the dexcool. Keep your overfill tank properly filled and you wont have any problems.