On your 2005, the "coil" inside the distributor is the camshaft position sensor. It will NOT prevent the engine from starting or running. Same thing with this sensor as with the crankshaft position sensor: if there is no DTC in memory, the sensor is fine. Both sensors are monitored continuously, if there's a problem with either sensor or their circuits, the check engine light comes on immediately, and a DTC is set in memory.

 

the results from the test I had 58lbs of fuel pressure and 11.78 volts on the pink wire.
I also has the same voltage on the ignition module.

 

Fuel pressure is low, (should be 60psi to 66psi). This will not cause the "no spark" problem, but it needs to be addressed in the near future.

Couple of things to try:
1) Put a shot of carb cleaner in the air inlet and see if it tries to start.

2) Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap. Slide the rubber boot back a bit and prop the wire up so the terminal is about a half inch away from ground, (don't hang on to it unless you need your hair straightened). Have an assistant crank the starter while you watch for a blue spark from the coil wire.

 

yeah I have already tested the coil plug and spark plugs for spark and got nothing. I will have to wait till tomorrow to get some carb cleaner to try it. Is there anything else I can try till I can get to the store.

 

Sorry to butt in captain, but did you check the ecm fuses under the hood?

 

Hold off on the carb spray, if you're sure there is no spark, carb spray won't do a thing.

Unplug the electrical connector from the ignition control module. In the connector there are 4 wires:
Pink
Black with a white stripe
White with a black stripe
White

Using a test light:
Connect the clip to battery negative, probe the white wire while cranking the starter.
Connect the clip to battery positive, probe the white wire while cranking the starter.
Post the results of both tests.

EDIT: ECM 1 feeds the ignition coil and ignition module and there is battery voltage at both. We're checking to see if the PCM is commanding the module.

 

I don't have a test light I will have to see if my dad has one however I have tested the voltage on the ignition module and yes there is voltage on each side. When I took my old ignition module to autozone they tested it and said it was bad I wounder if they gave me another bad one or possible the wrong one for my vehicle. Is there a way to test it myself.

 

What I described above, using the test light, will tell if the PCM is commanding the ignition module to fire the ignition coil. Only one of the tests should make the test light blink. You can do the test with a volt meter, but using a test light is much easier. I'm guiding you through diagnosis in such a way that if the module is bad, we will find it. Connecting the test light two different ways, it tests for a ground pulse and positive pulse. The PCM sends a ground pulse to trigger the ignition module. The test light should only blink when the test light ground clip is connected to battery positive.

 

my dad is bringing his test light in the morning so I will have a test light and assistant tomorrow afternoon. I will post the results as soon as possible.
Again thanks for your time and advice.

 

results I am showing no pulse on either positive or neg side.