ok Now I am stuck I went back through checked all the relays and fuses all checked good. If I am not getting the pulse signal I am now guessing my PCM is bad. Sounds like its getting deep I think I am going to just have to have it towed in to the dealer $$$$$$.

 

Patience my friend. You're in good hands with Captain Hook. If anyone here can get you through this it's him. If you're in a hurry then go ahead and have a dealer look at it, but if you want to try and work your way through this with some help, just have a bit more patience until Captain has time to respond again with more information for you. Hopefully he can help you solve your issue with as little money spent as possible.

 

Yeah I know just running out of time that's all trust me I do not have the money to pay a dealer.

 

I'm on it

Before we get too far, did you test the CRANK fuse while cranking the starter? Must show battery voltage on both terminals on the top of the fuse.

The module is not receiving a ground pulse to fire the ignition coil. It could be a faulty PCM, but we don't know that for sure, (several things to check still). It could be the white wire is broken between the PCM and the ignition module, that's what we're going to check now. Disconnect the ignition module connector and the green connector at the PCM. Using a volt/ohm meter, check the resistance of the white wire at pin #26, to the white wire at the ignition module harness connector. Must be less than 5 ohms resistance.

If that checks OK, re-connect the green connector to the PCM, and leave the ignition module connector disconnected. Put the ground clip of the test light to battery positive. Touch the probe to battery ground and make sure the light comes on solid. Do not disconnect the green connector from the PCM. If you have a T pin to probe the white wire, that would be great. If not, you can use a straight pin to pierce the insulation close to the PCM connector. VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT allow the pin to touch anything that is ground or battery voltage. Touch the test light probe to the pin and crank the engine, hopefully the light will blink. When done with the test, seal the insulation with RTV, etc.

 

the wire ohms came back ok however I still did not get the pulse on the wire.

 

Don't put the ohm meter away, we're not done with it

There are 7 grounds and 3 battery feeds to the PCM, we need to check each one. Un plug both the blue, and the green connectors from the PCM. Put the ohm meter on the lowest, most sensitive scale. Connect one probe to battery negative. With the other probe, check resistance on each of the following pins. Each pin should have a black with white trace wire. Each reading must be less than 5 ohms.

Blue connector:
Pins 1, 24, 27, 40 & 64.

Green connector:
Pins 1 & 40

Next, change the meter to DC volts range. Negative probe to battery negative. Ignition in OFF position. In the blue connector, pins 20 & 57 should each have an orange wire and must show battery voltage at all times. Pin 19 should have a pink wire and it must show battery voltage with the ignition in the RUN & START positions.