Originally Posted by rockjock29bc
(Post 644374)
Ok so what I did was Turn the crank wheel until I saw the yellow line on it match up with a notch behind the wheel I think there was a yellow line and a black line so I matched the yellow line up with the notch that sits around 2 o'clock the black line was then somewhere down around the bottom but I couldn't see it, Then I pulled the distributor out and aligned the two dots or notches at the bottom with a little line that was on the shaft and the rotor was pointing towards it as well when I dropped it back in it all lined up to just slightly past the 6 maybe a degree or 2 off at most. does that make sense?
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I didn't determine which one and after watching a couple videos it is quite possible I did it wrong I did not pull plug number one to see if i could feel air coming through so I'm going to try to do it again following what they did on the videos and make sure i get it all right i'll let you know the outcome. I could have it tdc#4 instead of number 1 we will have to wait and see next time i get out there
So how is it possible to have tdc#4 instead of tdc#1 like say everything is set at tdc#1 would one full rotation of the crank wheel then be on TDC#4 and a second full rotation would be back at tdc#1? Sorry if this is common sense stuff that any mechanic would know but I'm no mechanic |
1 Attachment(s)
The crankshaft makes two revolutions for each one revolution of the distributor rotor. The lines on the dampener will line up, (see image below) when #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke and TDC of the exhaust stroke. The rotor must be pointing at the "6" on the distributor housing when #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke.
Attachment 30921 When you remove #1 spark plug & turn the engine over with the starter, there will be a push of air from the spark plug hole on both strokes. The compression stroke will have a stronger push of air than the exhaust stroke. Crank it a few revolutions and you'll hear the difference. Try to time it so you stop cranking just before the stronger push. Then using a socket & ratchet on the crankshaft bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise the last few degrees until the lines are just like in the image. Pull the distributor and reinstall it so the rotor lines up with the 6 when the distributor is fully seated against the intake manifold. If the distributor will not fully seat, you'll need to adjust the oil pump drive with a large flat blade screwdriver so the distributor shaft engages with the oil pump drive. |
Thanks guys I got it its all where it should be now, still runs like crap but atleast its running now lol.
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Originally Posted by newguy
(Post 640984)
since you took it out, replace the whole thing. This is an upgrade from the original Amazon.com: ACDelco 217-3028 GM Original Equipment Fuel Injector Kit with Bracket: Automotive
I have a 2001 blazer and I was wondering If it would be an upgrade if I were to change it with this? |
Originally Posted by Bolbol
(Post 644428)
What year did they start putting this on the blazers by the way?
I have a 2001 blazer and I was wondering If it would be an upgrade if I were to change it with this? |
Originally Posted by rockjock29bc
(Post 644384)
So how is it possible to have tdc#4 instead of tdc#1 like say everything is set at tdc#1 would one full rotation of the crank wheel then be on TDC#4 and a second full rotation would be back at tdc#1?
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The cap is designed so that no two adjacent cylinders in the firing order are next to each other on the cap.
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
(Post 644478)
The cap is designed so that no two adjacent cylinders in the firing order are next to each other on the cap.
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Good question! Obviously there's something that AC Delco is doing that the aftermarket manufacturers aren't.
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