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I need help brainstorming crank no start

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  #91  
Old 02-26-2020, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaze305
Ok guys I got a new (3rd) stater lol this time I'm going to keep the fuel relay removed so it lets me crank and test only the spark. until I see a nice spark sequence because when I add the fuel relay it does all that kick back,pop,lock and blow out from the intake breaking the starter lol

When I get a chance i will do the test your proposing with jumping abtooth forward or 2 forard and backwards from the 6. I just tried it again still don't have my ark spark tester its on its way but im using the one I showed here with it lighting up when theres spark and only spark one or two times then crank ,crank and I don't see it light up.I remove again the coil wire and I see the orange consistent spark about 1/2 jump non stop. Coil is new havent touched the ICM.
I also tested the power to the coil and traced it to the fuse block and tested it on the on position (i get 12v) and while cranking( I get 11v) I did look it up and it suppose to have 12v so I jumpered from a solid 12v to that fuse and no change still no consistent spark at the #1 just sometimes a small blink.
Looks like the spark is going somewhere else inside the distributor. I have high hopes for the tooth forward / tooth backwards thing, Bet it's jumping to a different terminal.
 
  #92  
Old 02-26-2020, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaze305
I have a quick question I want to rule out my cables (which are new) and was wondering if I put the rotor aiming at the #1 piston and with out crancking just toggles the data on the ICM to make it spark that way it stays at #1 would this be a good test that aleast my path from coil to plug is ok?

Another question so when I don't have someone to crank for me.... can I leave the key in the ON position and crank by jumping the starter relay? I've been doing it like this and it works but want to make sure I'm not over looking something.
Never tried the static spark generation test you propose but it should work. Just try to provide a clean voltage ramp so you don't fry your ICM. Yes you can leave the ignition on and remote crank the starter.

George

 
  #93  
Old 02-26-2020, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaze305

Just ordered this one

That's a good spark tester.

George
 
  #94  
Old 02-26-2020, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by LesMyer
Looks like the spark is going somewhere else inside the distributor. I have high hopes for the tooth forward / tooth backwards thing, Bet it's jumping to a different terminal.
I agree, especially since you had carbon traces inside your old distr cap.

George
 
  #95  
Old 02-26-2020, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaze305
Ok guys I got a new (3rd) stater lol this time I'm going to keep the fuel relay removed so it lets me crank and test only the spark. until I see a nice spark sequence because when I add the fuel relay it does all that kick back,pop,lock and blow out from the intake breaking the starter lol

When I get a chance i will do the test your proposing with jumping abtooth forward or 2 forard and backwards from the 6. I just tried it again still don't have my ark spark tester its on its way but im using the one I showed here with it lighting up when theres spark and only spark one or two times then crank ,crank and I don't see it light up.I remove again the coil wire and I see the orange consistent spark about 1/2 jump non stop. Coil is new havent touched the ICM.
I also tested the power to the coil and traced it to the fuse block and tested it on the on position (i get 12v) and while cranking( I get 11v) I did loo
k it up and it suppose to have 12v so I jumpered from a solid 12v to that fuse and no change still no consistent spark at the #1 just sometimes a small blink.
The whole system drops to around 11V (or less) during cranking so that's normal.

Do you have an oscilloscope and a high voltage probe?

George
 
  #96  
Old 02-26-2020, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
Never tried the static spark generation test you propose but it should work. Just try to provide a clean voltage ramp so you don't fry your ICM. Yes you can leave the ignition on and remote crank the starter.

George

If you look at this bid at 12:20 thats what I did with a similar probe.

This is similar to my probe
 
  #97  
Old 02-26-2020, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
The whole system drops to around 11V (or less) during cranking so that's normal.

Do you have an oscilloscope and a high voltage probe?

George
yeah thats what I figured that the starter was pulling the voltage down to 11v


I was testing like he did here at 3:50 so I'm guessing my egnition switch is ok
 
  #98  
Old 02-26-2020, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
I agree, especially since you had carbon traces inside your old distr cap.

George
I was wondering ...if the crank balancer pulley slipped ...is it possible to remove it or better yet forget the marking on the pulley and go by something else like a screw that holds it or a notch to put it on tdc with rotor on 6 marking (basically put it on timing ignoring the pulley markings)

I don't have an oscilloscope or the old schood time gun the gun I msy be able to rent.
 

Last edited by Blaze305; 02-26-2020 at 10:56 PM.
  #99  
Old 02-27-2020, 05:35 AM
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Just for curiosity...

...which cylinder do you consider being #1?

The pulley and the balancer should have a key which locates them on the crank snout.
 
  #100  
Old 02-27-2020, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by error_401
Just for curiosity...

...which cylinder do you consider being #1?

The pulley and the balancer should have a key which locates them on the crank snout.
From what I've researched piston #1 would be at the front closest to the balancer pulley driver side and #2 would be front passenger's side.

great the balancer has a key so can I use the key as a mark to set tdc and align the distributer (this would be easier than skipping teeth advancing and retarding the distributor to get lucky and find that the balancer slipped or maybe I just need to get a new balancer right away.
 


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