idle stumbling
#11
Fuel filter is relatively new, I replaced it about a year ago as well. never replaced the spider assembly though. I suppose I could. But I hate throwing money at a problem with out knowing for sure if it will fix it. I live in a pretty small town now * population 1000* tools and qualified mechanics are hard to come by.....
#12
Fuel filter is relatively new, I replaced it about a year ago as well. never replaced the spider assembly though. I suppose I could. But I hate throwing money at a problem with out knowing for sure if it will fix it. I live in a pretty small town now * population 1000* tools and qualified mechanics are hard to come by.....
#13
I live in Grand Coulee, wa below the Grand coulee dam. moved here for work. Good job, no traffic, quiet town. Just not toooo many amenities. Took me about 4 months before i realized there was a NAPA tucked away on a side street lol. So now I have to take the intake manifold off huh? I'll have to wait a few weeks before I tackle that assignment, I've got an end of step exam coming up for my apprenticeship.
#14
I have been experiencing a very similar problem lately, and I would recommend changing your coolant temperature sensor. It's a $10 part and shouldn't take more than 30 - 60 minutes from start to finish. My truck runs completely different after replacing this part. The idle no longer dips down to 400 rpm then back up to 550 rpm after revving the engine to 2000 rpm. I have regained some power and responsiveness and it feels like it used to before the problems started.
I posted this recommendation in another thread too because I believe this is something that should be looked at very early in the troubleshooting process for symptoms of stalling or running rough. It's cheap, easy, and your entire engine runs based on the inputs from this sensor. Even if it's not the problem, it's good to have a new one of these anyway and you won't feel sick like you would if you replaced the fuel pump or injectors and still had the same problem afterward.
Hope this helps.
-thisspaceforbrent
2001 2dr, 2wd
4.3l Vortec
I posted this recommendation in another thread too because I believe this is something that should be looked at very early in the troubleshooting process for symptoms of stalling or running rough. It's cheap, easy, and your entire engine runs based on the inputs from this sensor. Even if it's not the problem, it's good to have a new one of these anyway and you won't feel sick like you would if you replaced the fuel pump or injectors and still had the same problem afterward.
Hope this helps.
-thisspaceforbrent
2001 2dr, 2wd
4.3l Vortec
#15
mine was replaced about a year ago... lol just like everything else. new cap and rotor, replaced intake gasket, cleaned egr valve. The reason I replaced it was because I broke the electrical connection on the sensor end. anyways it's been done. what can you do? B1S1 O2 sensor was reading out of spec. it was going down below the spec voltages on the flip flop... I;ve got 4 O2 sensors. is that typical? my manual doesn't state a specific model but napa said that I would need 2 and I counted 4.
Last edited by jester429; 11-01-2009 at 09:28 PM.
#16
The 96-97 trucks had four sensors. There are only two sensors that affect fuel delivery. They are the two closest to the exhaust manifolds, one on each side of the engine. They will be ahead of where the two banks combine in the Y-pipe.
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