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ignition and idle problems!

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Old 03-01-2011, 06:13 PM
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Question ignition and idle problems!

ok so I bought my blazer which wasnt starting, already replaced spark plugs, fuel pump, and fuel filter. I have some check engine codes saying i have a misfire and for my cat. So I'm thinking its gotta be the wires or the cap and rotor. But I took the Cap and rotor off, both look good to me. Splashed some water on the wires put a screw driver by them and looked for an arc. But didnt see any, which tells me the wires might be ok.

Putting wires on it are a huge pain and its quite cold outside to be doing it, so does anyone have ideas or similar problems?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 07:57 PM
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What were the specific OBD2 codes (Pxxxx)?
 
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:03 AM
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ill get them tomorrow but they were like 300 and 420. It said for a misfire and the cat. I rechecked them and noticed a 4th on for the oxygen sensor, so i need to fix this before it does some damage.
 
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:54 AM
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Here are the code sheets if those were the actual codes:
P030x - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

Depending on which O2 sensor it was, it may not have anything to do with the engine performance, but could be resulting from another issue that could affect performance.
 
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Old 03-05-2011, 03:33 AM
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Ok so I have 5 codes now here they are:
P0300
P0341
P0420
P0341 p/d
P0420 p/d

any suggestions or thoughts?

If it helps anyone the spark plugs that were changed were black, it has a rough idle but nothing majorly noticeable.

Thanks for any help again
 

Last edited by Craig84; 03-05-2011 at 03:41 AM.
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:46 AM
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Kyle can help more than I can but, when I had those same codes last month it wasn't good. The honeycomb in the cat broke apart and went into the muffler. At first I thought I got lucky and blew out the back end because it seemed to have good flow with a slight miss. After replacing the cat it still had the miss when idle but nothing to write home about. It was when driving you could fell it still wasn't right. So I took the post cat o2 sensor out and drove around the block. It was loud but drove better so I ended up replacing the cat, muffler and tailpipe with walker replacements from Advance because money was tight at that point for me.

Again, Kyle can probably help more than me but, that is what ended up being my problem when I got those codes(p0300/p0420)

Don
 

Last edited by dshuld; 03-05-2011 at 07:47 AM. Reason: added the codes I was refering to.
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dshuld
Kyle can help more than I can but, when I had those same codes last month it wasn't good. The honeycomb in the cat broke apart and went into the muffler. At first I thought I got lucky and blew out the back end because it seemed to have good flow with a slight miss. After replacing the cat it still had the miss when idle but nothing to write home about. It was when driving you could fell it still wasn't right. So I took the post cat o2 sensor out and drove around the block. It was loud but drove better so I ended up replacing the cat, muffler and tailpipe with walker replacements from Advance because money was tight at that point for me.

Again, Kyle can probably help more than me but, that is what ended up being my problem when I got those codes(p0300/p0420)

Don
I really hope thats not the problem, cats are expensive that whole deal is. How did you know that was the problem? did you hit the pipe and hear a rattle?
 
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:58 AM
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No, I took the bolts out enough to drop the front end of the cat down to look inside of it. I had to take the front bolts and a couple of the hangers out to drop it enough to look in. Like I mentioned money was a factor for me also at that point. The cat was $225 plus tax, the muffler and tail pipe came to $125, the front gasket was around $5 and the rear gasket was around $8. If you do have to replace everything do yourself a favor and take one of the nuts with you and get new flange headed bolts. Also get new rubber hangers ($4 or $5 each). The cat I got need one less hanger than stock so count the hangers and subtract one from it. Mind you, if I remember correctly, the 2 door parts were a few dollars more than 4 door parts, I could be wrong on that though. The walker stuff bolted right in.

Quick follow up, you will need a floor jack, a 13mm deep socket, a 15mm deep socket, a 15mm wrench, breaker bar, saw and a small section of 2x4.

The jack is used (1) with piece of wood to raise tranny enough to remove the cross member under it. Don't bother trying to get the cat out without taking that down, I spent an hour trying to wiggle the old one out with it in. (2) To raise the back end up to allow more clearance between body and rear suspension to get tail pipe out.

The is obiviously used to seperate the tailpipe and muffler if you need to replace that as well.

If I remember correctly the nuts that attach the piping together are 15mm and the bolts that hold the hangers to the frame are 13mm.
 

Last edited by swartlkk; 03-20-2011 at 03:22 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond.
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:36 AM
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any other ideas on what it might be though? With this weather I dont wanna be under the car messing around with the exhaust pipe, that seems kind of a rare anyway. I do appreciate the help though, I just really hope thats not my actual problem I'm gonna hit up my friend whos a master tech and ask what he would think. I'll make sure to let anyone curious what it was when I cure it.

I could really use a Gregory House on this one. haha
 
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:05 AM
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Default 2000 chevy blazer zr2

I have been having a difficult time with my blazer it has been stalling after it gets warmed up and then wont restart until it cools down. I thought that it might have been from the purge solenoid I cleaned the egr valve replaced ignition switch and still stalls anyone know what could be wrong no codes
 


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