Intake manifold gasket help
#12
Ignition timing is not adjustable on your engine. Older engines have a pick up coil, or points, inside the distributor. Rotating the distributor changes the position of the pick up coil or points, which is what causes ignition timing to change. On your 2001 4.3L, the crankshaft position sensor takes the place of a pick up coil or points. The sensor is mounted to the timing cover and does not move. Moving the sensor changes ignition timing, but there is no way of knowing where. This is why the crankshaft position sensor relearn needs to be done if the sensor or the timing cover is moved, removed, replaced, or disturbed in any way, (base timing will not be correct). Rotating the distributor on your engine does two things: one, it aligns the camshaft position sensor with the camshaft, and two, it aligns the distributor cap so when the ignition coil fires, the air gap to the rotor is at a minimum. Rotating the distributor has absolutely no affect on ignition timing. The adjustment is called "camshaft retard" or "CMP retard". If CMP retard is set correctly, you can disconnect the camshaft position sensor and the engine will start and run just fine. Cylinder misfire detection and cylinder identification would not be correct, and the SES light would come on, but you won't notice any difference in the way it runs.
#13
Ignition timing is not adjustable on your engine. Older engines have a pick up coil, or points, inside the distributor. Rotating the distributor changes the position of the pick up coil or points, which is what causes ignition timing to change. On your 2001 4.3L, the crankshaft position sensor takes the place of a pick up coil or points. The sensor is mounted to the timing cover and does not move. Moving the sensor changes ignition timing, but there is no way of knowing where. This is why the crankshaft position sensor relearn needs to be done if the sensor or the timing cover is moved, removed, replaced, or disturbed in any way, (base timing will not be correct). Rotating the distributor on your engine does two things: one, it aligns the camshaft position sensor with the camshaft, and two, it aligns the distributor cap so when the ignition coil fires, the air gap to the rotor is at a minimum. Rotating the distributor has absolutely no affect on ignition timing. The adjustment is called "camshaft retard" or "CMP retard". If CMP retard is set correctly, you can disconnect the camshaft position sensor and the engine will start and run just fine. Cylinder misfire detection and cylinder identification would not be correct, and the SES light would come on, but you won't notice any difference in the way it runs.
The kit also came with some rubber washers for the fuel lines and the distributor. The valve grommets are an obvious solution as to where they go, but where do the fuel washers go...down in the fuel meter body where the fuel line connects or is it where you disconnect the lines at the back of the motor.
Also, the distributor gasket, does it go between the block and intake manifold or between the intake manifold and the distributor?
Sorry for all the questions, having to do this on my own and don't have any help or anybody to ask around here where I live. I called the dealer and they said...well, if you bring it in we can have a look at it...the usual gimmeck to get you in there.
#15
The O rings that came with the intake set, (5/16" & 3/8") are for the fuel lines at the rear of the intake. The distributor gasket goes on the distributor before you install it. Torque for the rocker arm cover bolts is 106 inch pounds.
#17
This is an update to this old thread.
So, I got all the old gaskets cleaned off the head and the intake manifold. Cleaned the distributor up and my valve covers (changed the valve cover gaskets while I was at it). The vlave cover gaskets will give you a run for your money...they don't go in easy.
Changed out the old spider fuel injection to the upgraded one(ACDelco)...much needed upgrade and well worth it. Changed out the fuel pump (it was weak), and the fuel filter (had black liquid in it).
Got it all back together, fired right up like it did when it was new. I checked for leaks and found none. Next day I cranked it up to let it warm up to change the oil and I noticed a leak...you've got to be kidding, after all that. I found the leak it was also my water pump leaking out the back side where the inspection plate is. The gasket was shot. Fixed it, changed my oil (Mobile1), and replaced spark plug wires (ACDelco), spark plugs (ACDelco), distributor cap/rotor button both ACDelco. Truck runs like new.
So, I got all the old gaskets cleaned off the head and the intake manifold. Cleaned the distributor up and my valve covers (changed the valve cover gaskets while I was at it). The vlave cover gaskets will give you a run for your money...they don't go in easy.
Changed out the old spider fuel injection to the upgraded one(ACDelco)...much needed upgrade and well worth it. Changed out the fuel pump (it was weak), and the fuel filter (had black liquid in it).
Got it all back together, fired right up like it did when it was new. I checked for leaks and found none. Next day I cranked it up to let it warm up to change the oil and I noticed a leak...you've got to be kidding, after all that. I found the leak it was also my water pump leaking out the back side where the inspection plate is. The gasket was shot. Fixed it, changed my oil (Mobile1), and replaced spark plug wires (ACDelco), spark plugs (ACDelco), distributor cap/rotor button both ACDelco. Truck runs like new.
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