Intake Manifold Gaskets and Timing Chain Cover/Oil Pan questions
 

I am going to be replacing my intake manifold gaskets soon and I see there are two types of Felpro gaskets, one set being $30 and the other set being $72, I assume the $30 ones are the type I used 5 years ago when I replaced them the first time. Has anyone used the $72 set of Felpro gaskets ? Results? Opinions?

Also I see there is a Victor Reinz intake set for similar pricing, has anybody used them, I never heard of them and I have been doing my own work for 20 years.

Now for the timing cover question, my GM service manual recommends removing oil pan (and lowering front differential):mad: before timing cover, I know I have changed timing covers on small block v8's and older Z block 4.3's with out removing but just lowering the oil pan.

Can I just lower the oil pan and get timing cover out of the W engine?

Can I reuse the oil pan gasket once I loosen it up? :icon_teeth:

I am replacing the timing cover as suggested since it is only $30, I already have a front crank seal oil leak

Leaks everywhere I know:icon_no:

Are you talking about the Fel-Pro MS98002T Prmdry kit? If so the reviews are great, and thats what ill be using. Just a tip...Go to advance auto parts website and use the code VISA and it takes $30 off, which leaves you at $49.99. This is for the intake only.

If the Felpro MS98002T gasket is installed and torqued properly, it will not leak. BTW, Victor has been making gaskets for over 100 years, they are now owned by Dana corporation. They also make a replacement gasket comparable to the Felpro however, I have not used it or seen the reviews on it yet. The Felpro I have used, and it works!

The oil pan must be lowered to remove the timing cover. If you don't want oil leaks, replace the oil pan gasket ;) After replacing the timing cover, the crankshaft position sensor relearn MUST be performed with a scan tool capable of initiating it. After the relearn, check and adjust camshaft retard with a capable scan tool, (should be done whenever the distributor is removed).

Great, I guess I have to get e $2000 GM Tech 2 scanner to change my timing chain?

Guess I won't be doing that, I don't think my $280 Actron scanner has that feature. If I don't unplug it will it be OK, probably not if it uses a magnet prox type switch?

It states in the GM shop manual that if the crankshaft position sensor and/or timing cover is moved, removed, replaced, or disturbed in any way, the relearn must be done. (yes, magnetic prox type switch) The engine will most likely run if you don't do the relearn, just not like it should: cylinder misfire identification and ignition timing, to name a few, use that data. The PCM "needs to know" exactly where the crankshaft is in rotation to make accurate adjustments, that data is supplied by the CKS. The PCM "assumes" the data is correct when it makes its calculations and adjustments to timing etc. It's the techs resposibility to make sure it's correct to begin with. Most bi-directional scan tools, (big $) will initiate the relearn. When you're done, take it to a shop and have them do the relearn and check/adjust camshaft retard..... WAAAAY less than the cost of a scan tool.

Yeah that is what i was thinking, put it all together and take it to get relearned (my cheapy Actron does not have that supported function, I had to check)

I may just wait til spring to do timing chain when I do not have to worry about snow and I can drive the vette and take the blazer down for extended period of multiple repairs

Thanks for all the help Captain Hook......ARRRRRRGH:icon_pirate:

Whats a time frame we are talking with replacement for a timing chain?

My timing chain has 140-150K miles, not sure exactly, I replaced my defective instument cluster 3-4 years ago:icon_doh:

.......and I doubt if the previous owner or car lot replaced it before I bought it with 67K miles on it

You can check timing chain slack very easily, without removing the timing cover. Remove the distributor cap, rotate the crankshaft clockwise a few degrees with a socket & ratchet. This puts all of the chain slack on the passenger side. Have an assistant watch the distributor rotor as you turn the crankshaft counter clockwise until the rotor just begins to move. You can usually feel the increase in resistance when the cam starts to turn. This puts the chain slack on the driver side. Measure how many degrees you turned the crank. If it's more than ~6 degrees, replace the chain & sprockets. If there's more than ~12 degrees, you can lift the chain off the sprockets without removing them! With that much slack, the chain could very easily jump time. ... just a little "old school" trick ;)

What would be a sign of a worn out timing chain?