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-   -   Just quit running (https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/just-quit-running-82937/)

rlreusch 11-25-2013 11:00 AM

Just quit running
 
I have a 96 blazer and had some strange things happen this morning. It started fine this morning and as I was driving there was a little miss. Didn't think much of it, then after a bit I noticed the RPM needle go from 2000 to 4000 RPM. There was no revving of the motor, no miss or anything it just kept on going then the needle went back to normal. This happened a couple of times. After a few more miles (at highway speed) it started missing and jerking really bad. Then it was fine. Then a few more miles down the road it started jerking again. I pushed on the accelerator and nothing. Thinking maybe it was the transmission, I changed gears and no change. then it died. As i was coasting to the shoulder of the road, I noticed that the instrument panel was prett much out. I could barely see the battery light and a few others. After sitting a few minutes on the shoulder, I tried to start it again and it did. I went about another mile and it died again. What I thought was weird is the lights were dim, but after it quits running and trying to start it, the instrument panel if fully lit like normal. After a few more minutes I tried starting it again and it did bu it only went about 50 ft. It jerks and there is no power. Then it wouldn't start.
Here is what I have replaced in the last couple of months:
Battery (show 12+volts)
Dist cap and rotor
Ignition coil
Fuel pump, the relay and filter
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks

11-25-2013 02:07 PM

Two things come to my mind. First of course your battery connections and the main ground to the block.
The most important thing to me is the ignition switch, go over to the homepage google box and type in ignition switch and you will see the bizarre host of electrical problems they cause when they start to go.
When mine went it did not cause the exact same problems but close enough.
Think you need a #4 torx socket but really anything that will grab will due. Take the emergency flasher button out first or you will break it. They pull straight up and out.

newguy 11-25-2013 03:11 PM

Slow down on the ign. switch, What brand of cap rotor, coil, pump did you put in

rlreusch 11-25-2013 04:56 PM

spittybays I did think about the ignition switch briefly

newguy, I put an airtex pump in it and not sure on cap and rotor. I put the pump in about two months ago. I've heard that airtex could be problematic

richphotos 11-25-2013 05:23 PM

oooooooooh that could be your problem, Better do a fuel pressure/leak down test.
These trucks eat aftermarket pumps like candy, Delco/Delphi only.

newguy 11-25-2013 06:18 PM


Originally Posted by richphotos (Post 609002)
oooooooooh that could be your problem, Better do a fuel pressure/leak down test.
These trucks eat aftermarket pumps like candy, Delco/Delphi only.

Same thing with caps and rotors, second on the leakdown test

LannyL81 11-26-2013 03:39 PM

Probably the airtex pump. Lucky you....you get to replace the fuel pump again.

newguy 11-26-2013 07:13 PM


Originally Posted by LannyL81 (Post 609109)
Probably the airtex pump. Lucky you....you get to replace the fuel pump again.

Not really, my truck crapped out and it was the rotor and cap. no warning, just died

rlreusch 11-27-2013 06:19 PM

I took it to a shop that I use and the problem was the connector that goes to the ignition coil or the icm. Not sure what he said. But which ever one it was the pins were loose and not making a connection. The pins and or plug was replaced and he said that everything seems to fine. The fuel pressure was checked and all was good. He said he started moving wires and that was the culprit. once fixed it wouldn't do it again. Only time will tell
Thanks for the replies

11-27-2013 06:40 PM

Great! One bad connection can make the entire electrical system go flunky but if it happens again please consider ignition switch.


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