anyone know if the bushings that go through the frame are the same as the bushings that go through the leaf springs? i think the dealer messed up when i was ordering parts. also any ideas about how to get bushings in? tried using a c clamp... but it wont push the bushing all the way in. thanks. this has turned into quite the pain.

 

any ideas on a 94 blazer 4.3 cpi, its been sitting for three years ran before i parked it now she just turns over and over.. replaced all fuel parts and dont know what to do next, heard rumors of a fuel pulsator have no idea where she is located or anything, please help if you can

 

please start your own thread

 

Well,I must say that after reading all this on the shackle job that this is one job I will be farming out to a local shop even though I have access to air & torch at my work! To me $175 is cheap to save a days worth of stress on a bull job like this! And yes,the M1755 shackles for about $25 are available from Suspension King (aka Keystone Spring)

 

Here is what I used to get the bushing into the frame. It's 1/2'' all-thread, nuts, washers, and a 2'' pipe cap with a 1/2'' hole drilled in it. I hope this will also work getting the bushing in the spring.



On mine the bushing in the frame and the one in the spring were different. The part number for the frame is a RB 117, the spring RB 136. At least I hope the spring is a RB 136. I haven't got it delivered yet. I was sent the RB 117 and it's diameter is too small. My mistake was letting the part rep decide what I needed. I should of measured it myself. The 117 has a 1 1/2" diameter and the 136 has a 1 3/4''.

 

I talked to my local wrench today and he quoted me $90 for this job-IF I start PB Blasting now and continue daily(scheduled the job for Fri 3-23) as well as remove the skirts behind the rear wheels for ease of access.The shackles were $65-so I got off cheap! Much less headaches than what I have been reading here for some individuals!
Although a good wrench myself(did the LIM & heater core-in my driveway)this is best farmed out IMO! And I will have the car back the same day! Do the math:stress or loss of car for a week? I choose niether! step66

 

I got mine all finished up. All in all it wasn't too bad. If I had to do it again I would do it my self. It would of gone better if I had the right parts when I started.

Here is how I used my tool to start the bushing in the spring. I had the bushing in the freezer over night. I'm not sure if it made any difference though. I used some oil inside the spring and on the bushing. Also oil on the threads. It's not quite lined up strait in the pic. I did try to keep it as strait as possible to start it.



After I got it in as far as it would go up against the washer on the far side I took it apart and and put the pipe cap in place of the washers. This was to make room for the bushing to stick out of the spring. I tried to set it up with the pipe cap first but it was too hard to get it lined up strait. The pipe cap wasn't the best fit but it was handy. A larger flat washer or a piece of plate with at least a 1 3/4'' hole would of worked better. As it was only needed to pull it in the last 1/4'' or so it worked good enough. This was also a good time to re-oil the threads.



I'm not going to say it was easy to pull it in like this. But, it worked. I used two 3/4'' wrenches. I had a long one and had to wrap a rag around it to turn the nut.



Also, before I started putting them in I made sure they were cleaned out good. I used a hammer and a chisel to get the big rust flakes out. Then a round file. Extra attention was given to the edge of the spring where it is pushed in and also the end of the spring where it curls inside the hole. I didn't take any pics of putting the bushings through the frame but the set up was the same.