Leaking antifreeze, no heat,water pump possibly?
#11
I had that problem too. There is a special tool set that makes this much, much easier. Wherever you bought the water pump, you might see if they have the tools to loan/rent. The one I got looks a lot like this:
Amazon.com: BMW GM Fan Clutch Nut Wrench Water Pump Hub Holder Tool: Automotive
When I was much younger and more into self-torture, I didn't have these tools and ended up taking off the whole pulley. I had to remove the oil cooler, I believe...maybe even the radiator? Whichever, it was a major pain. Borrow the special tools...your sanity will thank you.
Amazon.com: BMW GM Fan Clutch Nut Wrench Water Pump Hub Holder Tool: Automotive
When I was much younger and more into self-torture, I didn't have these tools and ended up taking off the whole pulley. I had to remove the oil cooler, I believe...maybe even the radiator? Whichever, it was a major pain. Borrow the special tools...your sanity will thank you.
thank you all for your help
Last edited by craig1319; 03-29-2012 at 11:24 PM. Reason: horrible typing
#12
yupp looks like thats exactly what I need. I went to advanced auto parts and they sold me a tool that looked like it would work. tried it out, didnt quite fit, read the back and saw it was for fords, dodges and not chevys. looks like i'll be picking up something like this.
thank you all for your help
thank you all for your help
#13
Best and easiest, works every time.
#16
MY problem was similar on my '96 LS 4.3L V6. I couldn't tell where the damn leak was! Even with a flashlight and mirror I was only able to discern that it was either a pump gasket or the dreaded Intake Manifold Gasket. The pump outlet on the driver's side just about butts right up against that big honking billet aluminum A/C compressor and Power Steering pump bracket and you can't see the outside edge.
Anyway I went ahead and picked up a remanufactured pump at the parts store and started wrenching. Thankfully, it was the water pump gasket. The bolts didn't feel nearly tight enough when I backed them out. I suspect the lack of tightness is what allowed the gasket to blow out.
BTW: The weep hole on these pumps is on the top. I'm miffed as to why so many people talk about getting under the vehicle to look at the weep hole. Coolant coming out here indicates a blown shaft seal, but doesn't tell you anything about the pump to block mating.
I also found the fan removal to be the most difficult part of the job. Thankfully I had both a large adjustable wrench and a long pry-bar to wedge in between the pulley bolts and keep it from turning. I left the serpentine belt on but the pulley just kept slipping within the belt. You can't get replacements for those pulleys and they seem to be the highest wear pulley of all!
Water pump bolts are supposed to be torqued to 33ft lbs. I probably should have used loctite instead of thread sealant AND I'm planning to recheck those bolts later to make sure that they're still tight.
I used some super high-tac gasket goop to adhere the gaskets to the pump and make sure that they stayed in place while mounting the pump. I think that using a couple of 5 or 6" long 3/8 bolts in the top holes just to hang the pump in position and get it lined up would have made things easier, but it wasn't that bad.
Anyway I went ahead and picked up a remanufactured pump at the parts store and started wrenching. Thankfully, it was the water pump gasket. The bolts didn't feel nearly tight enough when I backed them out. I suspect the lack of tightness is what allowed the gasket to blow out.
BTW: The weep hole on these pumps is on the top. I'm miffed as to why so many people talk about getting under the vehicle to look at the weep hole. Coolant coming out here indicates a blown shaft seal, but doesn't tell you anything about the pump to block mating.
I also found the fan removal to be the most difficult part of the job. Thankfully I had both a large adjustable wrench and a long pry-bar to wedge in between the pulley bolts and keep it from turning. I left the serpentine belt on but the pulley just kept slipping within the belt. You can't get replacements for those pulleys and they seem to be the highest wear pulley of all!
Water pump bolts are supposed to be torqued to 33ft lbs. I probably should have used loctite instead of thread sealant AND I'm planning to recheck those bolts later to make sure that they're still tight.
I used some super high-tac gasket goop to adhere the gaskets to the pump and make sure that they stayed in place while mounting the pump. I think that using a couple of 5 or 6" long 3/8 bolts in the top holes just to hang the pump in position and get it lined up would have made things easier, but it wasn't that bad.
Last edited by fwupow; 09-27-2012 at 05:11 AM. Reason: if goofed on the torque spec
#17
I have a similar green leaking problem and already had head gaskets changed on my 94 Blazer. The leak is dripping just behind right front tire underneath. Is that where the water pump or heater core is? No leakage inside car. Its at the local garage center waiting for their prognosis. Any idea on what this will cost?
#18
Sounds like the overflow hose from the expansion tank is spewing out onto the ground. The runs down behind the right front wheel & suspension arms. I've no idea what would be causing it except for overfilling. Sometimes the cure is easy & cheap like replacing thermostat and rad cap. Have you ever replaced the radiator? My experience with rads is that after 10 yrs, you should expect failure.
#19
antifreeze leaking on 94 blazer diagnosed/fixed
Thanks for your help. The mechanic diagnosed and resolved the source of my leaking antifreeze. The hose running to the heater core was loose and only needed a tightening. What a break. Happy holidays!