Can anyone help me? I just bought a 2001 Chevy ZR2 with 134000 miles, supposed to have been good shape but has been in the shop for the first week, spent over $1000 so far. We have replaced the MAF sensor twice the map sensor, Spider injectors, spark plugs, Fuel pump and filter and fuel pressure regulator. However was running good today and then after I ran it for about 40 minutes the Serice Engine soon light comes on and it starts the missing as it did this the very first time it started all this. The computer reads MAF sensor. I am going to change it one more time but I really don't think this will fix it but we will see it's worth a try. What can cause these MAF sensors to go bad or can there be a short somewhere? Has anyone else had this problem? Please help, I really liked this ZR2 it is so sharp! It is just frustrating when the mechanic says he don't know what to tell me. Can there be a way to test something in there to see what may be making it to throw a code? Please help, my email is rivertrailfarms@frontiernet.net

 

What is the specific code? Have you diagnosed the issue at hand or was replacing components your diagnostic?

 

The mechanic replaced the fuel pump and things due to low fuel pressure, but the mechanic read the code just a while ago as MAF sensor, the SES light came on and it started missing again. I am going to replace the MAF sensor tomorrow again but I am not sure that will help it. I am thinking it may be a short somewhere or the plug. Also can a remote start that is malfuntioning that set off my secruity in my car and shut it down, can it have anything to do with this happening? I am sorry if it sounds like i know nothing but I am a woman and really know very little about this stuff but I am figuring it out as I go.

 

Replaced MAF sensor, after I ran the car for a while it started missing again, how do you adjust your fuel to air ratio to keep it from messing up the Maf sensor? That is if your car is burning rich.

 

Why would you continue to replace parts? You are wasting your time and money. DIAGNOSE and actually figure out what the problem is.

A remote start should not cause the engine to misfire. If the passlock bypass is not properly working, it could cause the PCM to kill the motor, but it would be working or not.

As far as the MAF sensor goes, over fueling will do absolutely nothing to the MAF sensor. If you think there is a short in the plug, fix the suspected problem and ensure that it is working properly before plugging it in again.

I'll ask one last time, what was the specific (Pxxxx) code that was read from the PCM?

 

swartlkk said it best: you're wasting time and money replacing the same part more than once. If you replace something and the problem contiunes don't let anyone tell you that you have to replace the same part again because they're lying and probably trying to make money off of you. I would recommend replacing the spark plug wires as well if you haven't already done so. A bad wire will often create a lot of resistance and won't send enough voltage to the spark plug in turn causing you're plug to misfire.

 

The part was a one year warranty so I did not have to buy,but trade it in for the new part. I will have to find out the exact code as I did not get to see it but was told that was what it was. As far as the fuel line parts replaced, the fuel pump was evidently going out and the tank was full of dirt so the mechanic thought it may be clogged injectors. However everytime you place a new MAF sensor it runs good for about 40 minutes and then starts jumping and missing but nothing severe. However I will have to get someone to check the plug as we do not have an ohm meter. But I will get the specific code it gave and repost after I find out what it was. When the mechanic started it up there the first time it backfired and busted air filter casing and then we had to replace the MAF again but anyway will get back to you with the code.

 

i've had a truck run absolutely mint-no stinky exhaust, smooth as silk, throtle response like a Swiss watch-and as soon as i removed the cap to see what it was like (didn't remove the wires, was simply doing an inspection on a '94 Jimmy my youngest brother had just picked up), i had an issue. the cap was green & fuzzy inside, and ran like crap after that. knew the cap & rotor needed to be done, but it still ran the same way after i replaced it.

wires looked great, but it wasn't 'til 3 nights later (during a wet snow storm), that i was able to see the arcing of the wires. replaced the wires, and it's been running fine for the last 2 months now.

your truck is a '01, any idea if the wires have ever been replaced? 'cause it sure sounds like it's part of the problem.

 

It really needs a new distributer, the mechanic said it was fine but it only has one bolt in it, and the ear is broke on it, probably needs plug wires too becasue the plugs were changed, and I doubt the wires were ever changed, I just have to wait til I get some more cash to put in to it. A friend said it could be a Trottle Position sensor, said they could throw a false code. I love this ZR2 I just hope I can figure it out.

 

are you talking about where the cap is screwed on? that's not good. while it would be ok (but not ideal) if one of the holes was stripped (like mine), at least you can re-tap the hole (or just wrap the screw in Teflon tape), but a broken tab leaves nothing to grab onto.

if your mechanic thinks that the missing tab is ok, then i don't know of any other way to put this, but he's bending you over his desk-big time!

how is the cap supposed to sit nice and tight on the distributor? and as for your friend "suggesting" it could be the TPS, is he a mechanic? or is he just guessing from his own past experiences?

sounds like you really should get a second opinion about the cause of your problems.