Anyone see anything off with these??
any advice is appreciated...

 

You have a significant ABS system failure. That many faults points to the EBCM or the system wiring/voltage/grounds.

You have a cat system problem. Might be the cat, might be the sensors, might be the wiring/ECM/voltages/grounds/bias voltage. Not enough info here to diagnose

Your evap system does not seal at test. this usually does not affect engine performance unless the purge valve does not close.

If that engine was warmed up the ECT value is wrong

Your fuel trims show correcting for a rich condition. Not enough info here to know why

Not enough info to asses the O2 sensors, MAP, MAF (looks OK at idle), TPS, ECT. Check MAP/BARO, ECT, IAT on the engine cold, key on engine off and compare to ambient.

What problem(s) are you trying to solve?


George

 

First off id like to thank you GeorgeLG for taking the time to answer me. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated. I put a reman engine from LKQ (keystone) in 10k ago. Just hasnt been running very good ever since. The motor was not dealership installed. I know my ebcm is shot. I'm in the process of trying to find another one because mine cannot be rebuilt I've already checked with module masters.com they can't repair mine. I really don't know where to look anymore to find one except the junkyard. When I put the motor in I took the catalytic converter off and just put a straight pipe in O2 sensors stayed where they were and I just replaced the O2 sensor on the heated Bank One sensor one I think. Poor gas mileage poor performance. And I've been having an issue of blowback. I guess it's backfiring and I've got a cold air intake on it and I will I had such a blowback at one time it broke the ears on the aluminum portion of my cold air intake that was on top of the throttle body. The only thing that I can think of that would cause a backfire that much that bad would be distributor ignition like out of time. But it's my understanding that there's no adjustment in the distributor. It's either on or it's off. And I had a friend of mine who owns a performance shop help me put the distributor in. And it wouldn't crank if it was out of time correct I mean it wouldn't start. ?? And I've had a fuel tank pressure sensor connector voltage low since I've had the thing. I wonder if that's is that the connector that they send with you to change whenever you buy a new fuel pump? I guess I need to check my purge valve also I've got numerous problems as far as running tip top. But the ebcm thing has got me messed up right now. I mean I've went through a set of brake pads in a month's time.
Brake dust all over my wheels because I guess my calipers aren't releasing all the way due to the ebcm being bad. I just got a whole treasure trove of issues. And I don't know where to start I don't want to go throw in parts at it like I've done before.

 

Here is freeze frame data on cold engine..and live data

 

ABS system:

I have not faced it here but in other vehicles a bad abs computer can develop cold solder joints and can be repaired by resoldering the high current connections internally. Do you have soldering skills? Before all of that however, inspect the connector and wiring for corrosion or poor contact.

We can ignore the cat code then. I believe that the rear O2 sensor serves no other purpose in this vehicle but I am not 100% sure on that. If your scanner can graph live data we should look at the two upstream sensors.

The main cause of backfiring is in fact timing and yes the engine computer controls timing but you need to make sure that CMP retard is within limits. Then, grab a water bottle and mist water all around you ignition wires, distr and coil in the dark and look for arching. pull the distr cap and look for carbon traces under the cap. check for excessive rotor play. Double check your wire routing to the spark plugs. Replace plugs, wires, distr, rotor if due. Make note of the spark plug condition at each cylinder. Do a compression test when the plugs come out.

Compare your cold engine live data values to ambient when you recorded them.

At some point a check of your MAF value at a full load shift might help with this diagnosis. You record the MAF value and rpm at a full throttle 1-2 shift on a warm engine. You also need ambient air temp

You should do the fuel pressure test in the sticky.

That should be enough for now.


George

 

Hey George LG,
Sorry it's taking me so long to get back to the post I had a question for you though my soldering skills are pretty darn good but I have the ABS module that you cannot get into the one with the plastic cap in the metal body. I called module Masters in that they said that that was one that they couldn't repair is there any way that I can get into that ABS unit and repair it myself because I'm trying to find an ABS unit right now or ebcm. Any info relating to this I've read a bunch of posts on that but only thing I can find was module Masters and they don't repair mine

 

I’ve never been involved in a hack of a sealed GM ABS unit but I have with another make. The idea is that you separate the plastic cover, reflow all the solder joints, especially the high current ones and seal it back up with goop like RTV or plastic epoxy. I’ll search my bookmarks and try to find something, it’s been a while.

George

 

This might be helpful:

https://www.s10forum.com/threads/abs...h-pics.493108/


George

 

Sorry its taken so long to get back here,. Been really busy... GeorgeLG , thanks for ur replies . I followed the link and watched the video but my module is the kelsey hayes module they say aint repairable.. apparently all i can do is keep pissing away 50 $ a pop at the u pull it until i get lucky and find a good one... Well im down 150 now and not fixed... There has to be a way in these things . I was determined and i was getn in mine no matter what... And i did
this is what i found...
any direction would help.. ive went through a set of front brake pads in a month since abs module went out.

I got in here with a pair of snips.

This was in there to absorb any moisture that got in

This also came outi hear



I hear that 4 contacts where power comes in is the prob alot of times.. well not here. This one appears to have completely burned a trace slap up.. can i solder a jumper to connect the trace once again??


Ñ

 

Yes you can repair PCB traces:


The idea on the high power solder joints is that they get hidden cracks and start losing contact so you reflow them. This guy is not great at soldering but you will get the idea:

:

George