EXACTLY what I needed, thank you. Now for the big question, is it possible to get the pan down enough to get that cover changed out? If not, would it be easier to pull the driveshafts and front axle to drop the pan instead of pulling the motor?

 

Please put your vehicle info into your signature or create a garage for your truck so it shows under your user name.

I'm guessing that you have an aluminum pan. You really can't make them flex so you have to loosen the entire pan to get it to drop down in the front. Another member just rebuilt their engine and had to pull the timing cover off again. He did so without loosening the pan.

Before going through all of the work of tearing everything off the front of the engine, have you made absolutely sure that the distributor bearings & gear are good? And that the cap & rotor are AC Delco & still good. As well as CMP Retard is zero? It's a lot of work to swap the timing cover.

 

Did they have to grind that lip off to get the new cover in without the pan dropped?

Distributor is brand new, cap and rotor will go on tomorrow most likely. Its just hard for me to think that is my problem because it ran with all this same equipment before the tear down, and now after the parts swapped it doesnt. The CMP Retard is something that has to be done by a dealer? And does the distributor have to come back out for this to be done? As Ive said, I have access to an AutoTap, and a DHP cord if there was software available that would let me do this

 

I do not know what was done, if anything to the cover. You might want to post up in their thread with your question since I believe they have an answer to their question.

AutoTap may be able to display CMP Retard as it is just a parameter within the PCM. I don't believe that it could when I had AutoTap's hardware/software, but they may have improved it since then. You do not have to remove the distributor to set CMP Retard, just loosen the hold down clamp & move the distributor within the hole through the LIM with the engine running while watching the CMP Retard data from the PCM.

A CASE Relearn (aka. Crankshaft Variation Learn Procedure) must be done with a bi-directional scanner capable of performing the procedure.

I'm just trying to make sure you've run through everything else before going through the hassle of swapping covers.

 

Ok, well appearantly the autotap interface is broken, but while trying to make it work i found EFI Live. Seems like a hell of a program.

Anywho, do you happen to know the name of that thread? Or the section it was in? I have tried searching a couple of times and nothing is coming up. May just not be using the right words, but a section would help me narrow it down a bit.

I will be putting on a cap and rotor, and plug wires tomorrow and if no change I think that cover is going to have to come off

 

Im back, sorry guys.

Anyway, got the new GM timing cover in, only had to drop the oil pan not messing with motor or from diff. Huge difference in where the sensor sits between the two, however it didnt help my problem at all. New cap rotor and wires, nothin happens.

Could CKP be bad? and would the engine still fire just not idle if so?

Could a bad coil or ICM cause the problem that I have?

Is it possible to just block the EGR off to verify this being my potential problem? I understand that the EGR has a purpose and needs to be functional but It would be nice to pull this off and know for a fact it is not my problem. I am at a loss, I am beginning to think maybe the spider is bad even though the shop said they tested it and all seemed well

 

Ok, so here is an update. Went ahead and swapped the covers, there was quite the difference there. Put in the nice GM cover and low and behold, nothing different. Put a new crank sensor in, and no spark at all, nothing. Put the old one back and it runs again, same as before. Gave up on it for a couple weeks and then decided to check a few other sensors.

Changed the TB with the IAC valve and TPS in it
Changed MAP, IAT, Ignition Module, Ignition Coil and EGR with sensors from a known working 03 S10

Didnt change anything so back to square one.

Is there anyway to pressurize (create vacuum) in the plenum to see if that vacuum holds (to know if I have a vacuum leak somewhere) Only thing I can think of is to create vacuum from the MAP sensor hole just wondering if this would work.

Anyway to check the O2 sensors? Possible to unplug them? I dont think that is my problem because it runs the same whether it is in open or closed loop fueling. Carbon and what I assume is water is leaking out the pipe while running.

I am thinkng maybe either the Cat is plugged up, vacuum is causing me problems, or my spider is secretly destroying me. Is it possible the spider has gone bad even if it holds pressure?

When the blazer is running fuel pressure is in the 56ish range IIRC and then drops down causing me to have to rev the motor to keep it running. While the blazer is actually driving it seems to do fine, obviously not perfect, but its drivable.

I just dont want to have to drive it this way

 

just wondering if you had the heads pressure tested and resurfaced, you never know how hot the previous owner got the engine, maybe he cooked it.
just a thought

 

I did not, I had the valves redone by a shop around here but didnt have anything else checked out.

Im unsure if this is my problem though, because it did run before. Not well, because it had a blown head gasket lol, but it did idle, and didnt seem to be missing much more power than it is now

Anyway to check the heads out now that they are on the truck?

 

what about an air leak around the inlet manifold, have you tried spraying wd40 or brake cleaner around it, if the engine revs up you know you've got a leak.
maybe you should go back to where it all started,the purchase,
was it definately head gasket or was the problem the missfire all along.