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Ran out of gas and now won't start
I ran out of gas and when I had gotten enough fuel I had tried to start but to no avail my car battery started to die. I had taken it autozone where they fully charged my battery. I take it back home and place in car it almosts turned over. Then the battery starts to die again . Please help my car has been stuck for more than a day due to tis issue
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When you pick up the battery from being charged at Autozone again, get the "loaner" fuel pressure gauge set.
After you put the fully charged battery in, hook the fuel pressure gauge to the test port Schraeder valve. Turn the key on, but don't even try to start it. Check the fuel pressure gauge with the key on, engine not running. The fuel pressure must be 60-66psi at this point. That's for 1996-2002 models with VIN "W" engine, if you have a different year or different engine, tell me what you have and I'll look it up. If it's not up to pressure, turn off the key for about 20 seconds, then turn it back on for 5 to 10 seconds. Repeat that cycle, 20 seconds off, 5 to 10 seconds on, four or five times, then leave the key on and check the pressure again. If you don't get fuel pressure, it won't start. No need to abuse the battery by trying to start it without fuel pressure. And running out of gas can kill the fuel pump. I used to sell lots of fuel pumps when gas prices spiked high (I used to be the parts manager at a dealership) because people would try to stretch to the end of the tank and run out, and kill the fuel pump. |
Originally Posted by Racer_X
(Post 667151)
And running out of gas can kill the fuel pump. I used to sell lots of fuel pumps when gas prices spiked high (I used to be the parts manager at a dealership) because people would try to stretch to the end of the tank and run out, and kill the fuel pump.
I wouldn't think one time running it out of gas would kill an otherwise good pump, but, definitely check fuel pressure. |
I thought Captain debunked the myth of running your vehicle low on fuel kills the pump.
Anyways, you may have air in your line still. open up the fuel test port while turning the key to the on position multiple times to bleed any air that might be in the system. dont turn the vehicle over while doing this. Just turn the key to the on position to prime the pump. |
Originally Posted by cleburne red
(Post 667193)
I've heard that, too. Especially running the tank low all the time. The fuel cools the fuel pump. If the level is low, the pump runs hotter, and electric stuff doesn't like to be hot.
I wouldn't think one time running it out of gas would kill an otherwise good pump, but, definitely check fuel pressure. Fuel is the lubricant and the coolant for the parts in the pump that are in the path of the pressurized fuel. As long as the pump isn't "sucking air," there should be no damage to an otherwise undamaged pump within "normal wear" specifications. Running the pump when it's drawing air instead of fuel will quickly overheat bearings and non-metal parts within the pump mechanism. At that point, it's like running the engine without oil or coolant. Damage occurs quickly then. How much damage depends on how much time the pump ran without fuel. How it "ran out of gas" is important. If the driver shuts off the key at the first sputter, coasts to a stop and calls the spouse/friend/AAA/roadside assistance immediately, little damage will be done. If it starts coughing and sputtering and "running out of gas" and you continue to drive it for a half mile, coasting up to a gas station and filling it immediately (cooling the overheated parts quickly, before they deform much), that's more damaging, but if fuel is added immediately, some damage can be mitigated. Driving it coughing and sputtering until it finally quits, and leaving it on the roadside for an hour or more is the worst case scenario, and doing that once can kill a pump, even a fairly new pump. As for running with the tank low, the threshold for "sucking air" varies widely depending on vehicle (gas tank design, especially around the fuel pump pickup) and driver/driving style. A retiree in a motor home, who doesn't want to break the dishes in the cabinets in back, or a housewife driving home from yoga practice who takes the turns slowly so her extra tall water bottle doesn't fall out of the cup holder can probably run close to empty without any danger of "sucking air" and damaging the pump. The driver with the "sports car" who makes the right angle turn into their driveway at 40mph and "exercises" the ABS to stop before hitting the garage door might need 1/4 tank or more to make it around that fun 270° "pig tail" freeway exit at 60mph+ without "sucking air," and having the engine sputter, running the pump without lube or coolant (fuel in the pump elements). richphotos has a point about bleeding any air out of the system. I'll revise my earlier procedure to add using the bleed valve on the gauge to let the air out. You should bleed until there's fuel running out the bleed valve. |
You could also lay on the ground near the tank and have someone turn the key and listen for the pump to start. If you don't hear it running you probably have a bad pump, or your pump isn't getting power.
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Most fuel pumps only energize for a few seconds with key on and no start so be mindful of that if you are listening to detect if the pump is working, and because of that you need two persons. The purge at the schrader port and/or fuel pressure gauge ideas are better in my opinion. There is a good analysis protocol for each model series for key on pressure, running pressure minimums, etc.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...eakdown-88305/ Running out of fuel is not a good idea but also does not automatically kill the pump. I have a 2002 Blazer that has completely run out of fuel around 4 times and had to wait for the can of gas to arrive each time. This pump has 125,000 miles on it and the previous one got the same treatment and lasted 110,000 miles. Don't ask, I have been married 20 years and have learned a few things about when it's time to be quiet. What I have also learned is that the replacement pump choice is critical. Forums are filled with complaints about crappy aftermarket pumps failing after only a few thousand miles. If yours needs to drop the tank (PITA job) pick a good brand of pump. I have heard bad things about the usual inventory like Airtex etc and good things about AC Delco and Delphi. I picked Delphi and have 125,000 miles on the replacement with said gas episodes. Good luck. |
Also since you're new here, DO NOT BUY AIRTEX IF IT COMES TO REPLACING THE PUMP. ACDELCO/DELPHI ONLY or you'll be under it again in 3 - 6 months.
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