Rear Brake Problems
So I have been searching for answers and cant seem to find exactly what I need. I have a 2000 2nd Gen. ZR2 Manual Trans. Did my rear brakes yesterday, pads and rotors. I am still learning with everything I try to do myself but hopefully I am closing the margin of error with every job
So here is the problem, Seemed like the old rotors were hung up on the E-Brake, loosened the equalizer nut, (drivers side, just next to the frame, between the door and rear tire.) That worked, rotors came right off after several smacks with a hammer. After that no problems, new pads and rotors and a test seemed to be okay. When I got to work this morning my driver side wheel was Smoking. I stayed with it until it quit smoking and it has since cooled. I didn't tighten the equalizer back on the e-brake cable, I depressed my e-brake and it seemed fine after the brake job. Maybe a little tighter than before. Everything I have read about adjusting this thing explains the ratchet sound the pedal should make when engaging the brake. Mine however does not, it is smooth and quiet. I need to know how to adjust this properly, what if anyhting seems wrong about all of this, Could there be more to it than the e-brake? Seized Caliper? Odds of my rotor being warpped from the drive to work? I have driven a total of 8 miles since the brake job yesterday. I cant drive home like this so whatever I can do during lunch and after work is all I have. I do have the necessary tools with me so advice, strict instructions, things to look for/at? All will be very helpful and very appreciated. Thanks in advance!
So here is the problem, Seemed like the old rotors were hung up on the E-Brake, loosened the equalizer nut, (drivers side, just next to the frame, between the door and rear tire.) That worked, rotors came right off after several smacks with a hammer. After that no problems, new pads and rotors and a test seemed to be okay. When I got to work this morning my driver side wheel was Smoking. I stayed with it until it quit smoking and it has since cooled. I didn't tighten the equalizer back on the e-brake cable, I depressed my e-brake and it seemed fine after the brake job. Maybe a little tighter than before. Everything I have read about adjusting this thing explains the ratchet sound the pedal should make when engaging the brake. Mine however does not, it is smooth and quiet. I need to know how to adjust this properly, what if anyhting seems wrong about all of this, Could there be more to it than the e-brake? Seized Caliper? Odds of my rotor being warpped from the drive to work? I have driven a total of 8 miles since the brake job yesterday. I cant drive home like this so whatever I can do during lunch and after work is all I have. I do have the necessary tools with me so advice, strict instructions, things to look for/at? All will be very helpful and very appreciated. Thanks in advance!
did you clean and lube slide pins? did calipers press back in without much resistance? spin rotor with caliper on, look for heavy resistance, could also be a park brake draggin on the inside of rotor, take caliper off and spin rotor checking for heavy resistance.
Thanks! I didn't remove the caliper pins, I just took the two bolts from the caliper bracket off and did it that way. Calipers depressed really easy with a C-Clamp. Earlier in the week I had tried to do the job but couldn't get the rotors off due to e brake hang-ups. Ran out of day light and had to put the old pads back on. During that time I had removed the caliper bolts. That was the caliper for the drivers side only which is the wheel that was smoking this morning. I was just out there trying to back off the e brake tension, def. loosened it as the pedal seems much easier to depress. However, with truck in neutral and e brake I can hear a hangup on the wheel still when pushing the truck forward. No noise or anything form the passenger side.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
I went through all of this myself, I would not be suprised that the caliper is indeed hanging up... If they start to smoke again then change the caliper.
Anything I did would temporarily fix the issue, but it would be back within weeks, and calipers for this are very cheap I just spent $35 to replace the whole thing bracket and caliper.
Anything I did would temporarily fix the issue, but it would be back within weeks, and calipers for this are very cheap I just spent $35 to replace the whole thing bracket and caliper.
My buddy has a 2001 chevy blazer
abs light was on he changed the abs himself
when pressing the brakes they skipping
i changed
both front rotors pads d\s caliber
rear rotors and pads
bleeded the brakes no air in the sys.
Does anyone know what this is from
thank you
abs light was on he changed the abs himself
when pressing the brakes they skipping
i changed
both front rotors pads d\s caliber
rear rotors and pads
bleeded the brakes no air in the sys.
Does anyone know what this is from
thank you
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