Rear Brake Question Disc (4wd blazer 2005)
#12
Just an update here! AGAIN THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP.
Recap of job
Ordered rebuilt calipers with brackets and all accesorries
Ordered semi -metallic pads
Ordered rotors, wow!!!
Took wheel off
Crimped rubber hose after inspecting it using rubber fuel line on top of vise grip endings - GREAT TIP
Loosened banjo fitting (a tiny bit) - while caliper was mounted
Removed caliper mounting bolts - two of them, labelled them - same size
Lifted caliper off rotor
Held it up using wire but didn't stress hose
pulled off two little round clips that help rotor in place
pulled rotor off
cleaned both sides of new rotor with brand new brake cleaner and a clean cloth
inserted on
put retaining circle clips back on to hold rotor
inspected rotors supplied, found the right on for the correct side by checking for banjo fitting and bleeder valve
put the three medal pieces into caliper
inserted brake pads , had wear indicators on both of them
made sure i had widest gap possible between brade pads so it can fit onto new rotors
Inserted caliper back into old spot, tightened down caliper mounting bolts again
now the dreaded brake line switch
undid banjor bolt (left copper washer on the top of banjo which was stuck to top of screw in place )
Took old copper fitting off old caliper - cleaned it
Didn't leak that much since line was crimped
Tightened banjo fitting down with old washer at surface of caliper
Inspected all area, cleaned as needed
Sprayed rotor again with brake cleaner
hooked up wrench to bleeder valve
attached hose to bleeder valve
filled a glass jar 1/4 filled with new brake fluid
put other end of hose into jar so it right at bottom of jar
cracked the bleeder valve and let air bubbles go out
opened reservoir cap
checked level added if needed
waited 5 minutes
Tightened bleeder valve
pressed brake pedal 3 times AND BOOM JUST like captain hook said "3rd time it will be stiff" it was!!
I then proceeded to get my friend to do the brake bleed part.
hold -- brake down..(do not pump)
loossen valve, air bubbles come out. 2 seconds close VALVE
yell to guy in truck to release pedal
REPEAT until bubbles gone. Man i saw some old fluid come out into the glass jar looked horribl e!
Started car up pumped brake pedal and inspected for leaks around banjo or anywhere near brakes
none
repeated on other side
OH MY GOD what a difference!!!!!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
Recap of job
Ordered rebuilt calipers with brackets and all accesorries
Ordered semi -metallic pads
Ordered rotors, wow!!!
Took wheel off
Crimped rubber hose after inspecting it using rubber fuel line on top of vise grip endings - GREAT TIP
Loosened banjo fitting (a tiny bit) - while caliper was mounted
Removed caliper mounting bolts - two of them, labelled them - same size
Lifted caliper off rotor
Held it up using wire but didn't stress hose
pulled off two little round clips that help rotor in place
pulled rotor off
cleaned both sides of new rotor with brand new brake cleaner and a clean cloth
inserted on
put retaining circle clips back on to hold rotor
inspected rotors supplied, found the right on for the correct side by checking for banjo fitting and bleeder valve
put the three medal pieces into caliper
inserted brake pads , had wear indicators on both of them
made sure i had widest gap possible between brade pads so it can fit onto new rotors
Inserted caliper back into old spot, tightened down caliper mounting bolts again
now the dreaded brake line switch
undid banjor bolt (left copper washer on the top of banjo which was stuck to top of screw in place )
Took old copper fitting off old caliper - cleaned it
Didn't leak that much since line was crimped
Tightened banjo fitting down with old washer at surface of caliper
Inspected all area, cleaned as needed
Sprayed rotor again with brake cleaner
hooked up wrench to bleeder valve
attached hose to bleeder valve
filled a glass jar 1/4 filled with new brake fluid
put other end of hose into jar so it right at bottom of jar
cracked the bleeder valve and let air bubbles go out
opened reservoir cap
checked level added if needed
waited 5 minutes
Tightened bleeder valve
pressed brake pedal 3 times AND BOOM JUST like captain hook said "3rd time it will be stiff" it was!!
I then proceeded to get my friend to do the brake bleed part.
hold -- brake down..(do not pump)
loossen valve, air bubbles come out. 2 seconds close VALVE
yell to guy in truck to release pedal
REPEAT until bubbles gone. Man i saw some old fluid come out into the glass jar looked horribl e!
Started car up pumped brake pedal and inspected for leaks around banjo or anywhere near brakes
none
repeated on other side
OH MY GOD what a difference!!!!!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
#15
You must do both procedures, starting with the shoe adjustment.
Here is the park brake shoe adjustment:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...psd40aff66.jpg
Here is the cable adjustment:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps465bf432.jpg
Here is the park brake shoe adjustment:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...psd40aff66.jpg
Here is the cable adjustment:
http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps465bf432.jpg
#16
Hi Guys! I'm doing the front brakes minus new calipers but I notice I need a socket to take off the rotor?
can some one tell me the size , I measure it as 1.5"?
can some one verify size and what I do after I loosen it off?
I know how to take caliper off and install shoes but any other advise when putting it back on( torque nut lbs or just snug )
can some one tell me the size , I measure it as 1.5"?
can some one verify size and what I do after I loosen it off?
I know how to take caliper off and install shoes but any other advise when putting it back on( torque nut lbs or just snug )
#17
Don't need a socket to remove the rotor. Might need PB Blaster and or heat, and a BFH. The rotor slides over the studs and is held in position when you install the wheel and lug nuts. First you need to remove the caliper bracket, 2 18mm bolts on the inboard side that go into the knuckle, then the rotor will come off.
#18
thanks again!! i feel pretty dumb - i don't need to remove that big nut!
quick question, i have the brake caliper screw grease but i'm not gonna rebuild the caliper... can i/should I use that grease on the back of the new brake pad that sits against the plunger?
quick question, i have the brake caliper screw grease but i'm not gonna rebuild the caliper... can i/should I use that grease on the back of the new brake pad that sits against the plunger?
#19
Absolutely nothing should be applied to the back of the pads, ever. The grease is for lubricating the caliper guide pins. After the caliper, pads, and rotor are installed, and the piston is fully retracted into the caliper, the caliper must slide inboard and outboard very easily with one hand. If not, free it up until it does.
#20
Ok, on my old 69 gto I saw anti-seize paste but was done in 1999. When I replaced those front disk calipers i never installed any grease(orange).
Now with the blazer (rear brakes) that you helped me out with I never installed anything on the brakes shoes or the medal clamps or anything, but the calipers were new.
I spoke to a couple mechanics and they spray this anti-seeze compressed stuff on the back of the inside brake shoe? Have you ever heard of this stuff?
As it sits now I won't use anything on the new brake shoes, just slide them and ensure the slide pins are clean and moving back and forth ok.
Also I notice it's hard to take off the caliper mounting bracket bolt if the tire is facing straight so I'll move steering wheel to the left.
Heading out there now!
Now with the blazer (rear brakes) that you helped me out with I never installed anything on the brakes shoes or the medal clamps or anything, but the calipers were new.
I spoke to a couple mechanics and they spray this anti-seeze compressed stuff on the back of the inside brake shoe? Have you ever heard of this stuff?
As it sits now I won't use anything on the new brake shoes, just slide them and ensure the slide pins are clean and moving back and forth ok.
Also I notice it's hard to take off the caliper mounting bracket bolt if the tire is facing straight so I'll move steering wheel to the left.
Heading out there now!