Removing the head on 4.3L
 

I have a 1997 4wd S-10 Blazer with the 4.3 liter Vortec engine. I am replacing a cracked head on the driver's side of the vehicle. My question to those of you who have replaced the heads in their vehicle is this. How do you remove the bolt that holds the fuel line bracket on the back of the head. In retrospect, I wish I had taken the engine out of the vehicle. I can see no method for removing this bolt. The firewall will not allow getting any type wrench on the bolt. I've thought of taking the dash out and drilling through the firewall. This seems a bit extreme. This project has taken way too long in my and my wife's opinion. I'm hoping someone has a fix for accomplishing this. Thanks

It's a simple solution. Unbolt the head and move the head forward just enough for access to this bolt. Also, I believe if you take the crossmember(s) out and let the back of the engine/trans hang it becomes accessible from the rear, but this is a difficult option and not sure why anyone would do it. In any case, they put the body on after installing this bracket in the chassis assembly. Throw this bolt and the bracket away and don't bend up the fuel lines or you will be sorry.

Have you removed the exhaust manifold yet to get at the outer head bolts? That's also a tough one with the EGR tube and steering shaft in the way.

If you pull the engine, then you have to deal with the bellhousing bolts before pulling the engine forward for the fuel line clamp and ground straps - but then you don't have to pull the manifold on the driver's side. I cut a small flap in my floor under the carpet behind the gas pedal for access to the impossible bellhousing bolt, and then bent it back afterwards. I did find it is better to pull the manifold on the passenger side when pulling the engine (factory manual has you pulling the transfer case and trans to pull the engine). Then the starter is super easy plus you get clearance between the evaporator case and the engine. Pretty difficult to twist engine enough to get past the evaporator case otherwise. Other people have disconnected the front axle and moved it forward for additional clearance to move the engine forward. Other have jacked the body up off the frame to get at bolts, but not a good option for a vehicle from the rust belt.

Just no easy way to do any major work on these Blazers! Better to pull the engine I think when doing anything past the LIM - then at least the job (especially torqueing head bolts) can be done properly and you can put things on an engine stand. I've R&R'd Blazer engine a couple of times. It gets better, but plan on losing at least one wrench on the top of the trans when taking the top/left bellhousing bolt out 1/16 turn at a time and you better have some swivel sockets and long extensions!

Why not replace both heads with fresh ones. Only doing one side is rinky dink IMHO. If you are committed to fixing your Blazer, by the time you are done money won't matter and you will hope to never have to do it again. At least that is how I ended up feeling.

p.s. if one head is cracked, a lot needs to be checked out. You may end up pulling the engine anyways before it is all over.

Good Luck in any case!!