Hey guys. I am going to be doing an oil change this weekend (my 2nd one) and I have some questions.

1. Should I be using Lucas with Royal Purple? I had Lucas + 5W-30 Conventional in it before and I switched to Royal Purple (no Lucas) 10W-30 at the last oil change and noticed a 10PSI oil pressure reduction when the oil was hot (30PSI at idle).

2. When I use Seafoam, is it possible to put it into the throttle body instead of taking a vac hose off? What if I remove the tube at the top of the cold air intake and pour it into that? Please see my attached photo. You could just barely see it. It is attached to the plastic tube attached to the throttle body on the firewall side of it. I don't want to mess with hoses in the event they break and disable the truck.

3. Which is better? Royal Purple or Amsoil for engine life? NOT looking to start a battle here. I am just looking for some advice from real-world results. I am NOT looking to extend oil drain intervals. I normally change oil every 2500-2750 miles. I am very good with getting fluids changed on time.

4. What is the best oil filter wrench available? I already tried a spring loaded claw and the plastic one that attached to a breaker bar that slips around the end of the filter and had nothing but trouble. I had to remove the plastic plate and fight with it. Eventually after cutting holes in the filter, I removed it.

 

hope these answers help

#1: No RP is already such a perfect oil that it really dosnt need any help.

#2 yes since your throttle body is mounted on top. just make sure to pour it evenly down both sides

#3 if you go with RP my preference you do not need to change every 2500 miles. in fact you will just be wasting oil as it is rated for 10ki change mine every 5-6k

#4 i prefer this type works with all size filters. http://www.classic-car-magazine.co.u...ter_wrench.jpg

 

#1: No RP is already such a perfect oil that it really dosnt need any help.

#2 yes but its best to put it in the booster

#3 if you go with RP you do not need to change every 2500 miles. in fact you are just wasting oil as it is rated for 10ki change mine every 5,000

#4 Just buy the K&N HP2001 oil filter it has a 1inch nut welded on the filter makes oil changes eazy. hear is a link http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?Prod=HP-2001

 

We into copying each other now?

I have never bought into the hype of RP or Amsoil. If you really want to get into the nitty gritty of oil, check out BobistheOilGuy.com and read up. Form your own opinions.

I will say that with modern synthetics coupled with a high quality filter, there is absolutely no reason to change your oil that frequently. 5-6k miles between changes should easily be attainable. If you need some peace of mind, get a few oil life analysis' done and see how your oil is doing after 3-4k.

As far as the application of seafoam goes, here is the method I have used on the '96+ SCFI engines numerous times. Disconnect your MAF and IAT sensor. Remove the intake duct work from the air filter and from the throttle body. Dribble 2/3rds of the can down into the throttle body while keeping the engine running. With the last 1/3rd of the can, pour it in more quickly and allow the engine to stall (or shut it off). Let it soak in for 20-30 minutes and then run it like you stole it until the exhaust clears up. Then change your oil and plugs (or at least pull the plugs and check them - cleaning as necessary).

The trick with the oil filter is to not tighten it too much when you first put it on. It doesn't take a lot of torque to compress the gasket to seal off any leak potential and to keep the filter in place.

 

Ok, when I do the oil change, I'll get an oil life analysis done. I still have the oil from the last oil change (forgot to send it in- it is still in the small sample bottle) and I'll get that one tested also.

Do I have to remove all that just to pour it into the engine? What about using one of the existing holes in the ductwork above all the sensors? I think it is all bolted in. I have never touched spark plugs before (but they were replaced 2 years ago with platinum plugs), but should I wait until I have to get the plugs changed before I do this? Will Seafoam damage the spark plugs?

Also, thanks for the tip on the oil filter. I was tightening it VERY tight.

 

Royal Purple is fantastic. Read the label, anything thats a pure PAO (polyalphaolaphin), I think thats how its spelled, wont need an additive. Seafoam is great for cleaning, just make sure to change your oil IMMEDIATELY afterwards. Seafoam is basically a detergent, an displaces oil. So anywhere the Seafoam goes, oil gets the boot from. Many people (though there are hundreds who will disagree) who have left the Seafoam in their engine and continued to drive have spun bearings and other serious issues.

FYI: A good PAO synthetic oil, when changed regularly, will clean your engine better than most solvents will. Trust me, Ive done the leg work.

 

Oh, and make sure you get a good quality oil filter WITH A BYPASS VALVE. Im surprised how many people still dont know about oil filter bypass valves. Fram and the like, generally dont have one. Napa GOLD, and anything made by Wix has a valve. Interestingly enough, Super Tech (walmart brand) has a bypass valve, and is usually the least expensive.

 

So maybe with the Royal Purple, I should forget about Seafoam because the PAO is doing a good job cleaning it already and there is no better, safer cleaner than PAO oil? I mean I agree and I would have never left Seafoam in the oil (had I used it) and I would change it immediately afterwards. Seafoam is basically like putting laundry detergent into the engine? Maybe I shouldn't use it then since I am already running RP (I just switched to it at the last oil change).

UPDATE: I do notice now that the lifter tick I was getting during the winter is a bit improved over what it was before I changed the oil last time. Only if it is cold in the morning do I get some ticking. Royal Purple doing it's job?

 

I use Napa Gold Oil filters now. Right after I changed the oil last time, I switched to that. I put a Fram Toughgard on it when I changed the oil, heard about the Fram horror stories and then switched it to a to Napa Gold. I would never use any Walmart brand oils or filters on my truck. I even switched to a magnetic drain plug when I changed the oil last time as a precaution. The equipment I use to change the oil (drain pan, ramps, funnels) IS from Walmart, but that is because I was already there at the time getting other stuff and those parts are the same quality and cheaper there than if I were to go to an auto parts store.

 

If the lifter tick goes away quickly after warm-up, especially on cold mornings, Id say youre ok. Remember, youre using a multi-viscosity oil that takes time to warm up and get "light" enough to travel through all the oil passages.

Some might recommend you switch to a heavier oil, but I always say you cant cover up a problem like that with a something in a bottle.

If the tick persists, you may have worn lifters or cam lobes. Time to call up Comp Cams and get something badass.