The tick goes away after a few seconds on startup and it is most likely to happen when it is cold or wet outside and less likely when there is Lucas in the oil or when it is warm outside. It seems to do it a little more if there is 10W-30 with no Lucas (years ago) in it than 5W-30 with Lucas in it. Sometimes if I drive it within the first 2 minutes, it makes a little bit of noise, but not loud or serious. That is one of the reasons why I usually never drive it without letting it warm up for 5 minutes (usual time until the engine slows to 550rpm at idle). The ticking "issue" has been there since I bought the truck at 58k. It has 91k on it now.

 

my best guess is that your lifters/lifter bores are a little worn out, and the lifters are losing oil overnight. not uncommon, and short of swapping them out, theres really not much you can do about it. the oil is just leaking back down into the pan from the lifters, and it takes a few seconds for them to pump back up when you start the engine.

 

I have a Master Mech who lives up the street from me who just might disagree with the R.P. God statement. He has a 600+ Hp Camaro that he races and use to use R.P. in it and his oil pressure bottom out. He thought he had blown the crank again. He would run the car up and down the street here and do a burn out or 2, he thought what the heck the crank is gone. Well, it wouldn't go..so he said self lets change the oil, so he dump the R.P. and but in Mobil, fire her up and why I be dog gone, his oil pressure was fine!!! His crank was fine. The R.P. in the Oil Dump pan look very thick and very black (keep in mind he races cars, so he changes his oil very, very often due to the heat the engines build up). It might work great on reg cars and trucks, if you want to pay the price..but no good for high perforance cars as it says it is.

 

I agree with Kyle pretty much. I'm an old retired mechanic. I have never lost an engine due to the type of oil or filter I ran.
I run NAPA synthetic with AC Delco, NAPA, Super Tech filters. I change my oil & filter every 10,000 miles with synthetic. I change Dino oil & filter every 5000 miles. I ran a 79 Chevy CK25 4x4 350 to over 300,000 miles with only replacing a timing chain. The rest of the engine was never touched except for regular maintenance items. I have almost 200,000 on my 86 F250 4x4 460. I have ran several others 100,000+ miles & never had and engine failure because of oil. Never blew up an engine & I have been using this schedule in oil & filters for 40 years.
I use Lucas or Power Punch with my oil changes on older engines. On any vehicles we have bought new & run straight oil. After 100,000+ miles I might add the additives. I like LUBEGARD for auto trannys.

 

Just out of curiousity, do I ever have to replace the timing chain? I have already had to have the intake gaskets replaced at 72k. Other than that, this engine has not been apart for anything. The only additive I use is Lucas. A few years ago, someone (idiot who will remain nameless) I know put stop leak in it because of the oil cooler hoses. I just had both of them replaced. The filter to engine ones in summer 08 and the other ones in October 09.

For the tranny, I had them put the Lucas stuff in it just as a preventative measure. I also have a B&M trans cooler. THAT was a tight fit. I bought the largest one I thought could fit on eBay The shop had to mount it with the fittings pointed down and cut the return pipe near the oil filter and attach the hoses to the cut pipe and the radiator. The transmission guy thought I was crazy to get a cooler put in because I don't plow or tow with it.

 

I ended up at walmart for my last oil change and I went with the super tech filter, the only other one was fram and I dont trust those. I usually use wix, good to know about the super techs.