I just called the person that owns the car and has been checking the fuses. She lives in kentucky. She has not been grounding the volt meter, but rather putting one of the volt meter leads to each side of the fuse. I misinformed her. I will have her recheck everything tomorrow. Sorry for all the trouble.

 

No problem, I understand. I knew something was screwy from the answers I was getting from you. No need to check everything, I can continue on with the info I have.

EDIT:
In the underhood fuse panel: Ignition in the run position, engine off, using a test light or volt meter, check both terminals on the top of the 25amp B/U lamp fuse #25, and the 10amp BTSI fuse. All 4 terminals must show battery voltage. Do not remove the fuse when checking for voltage. Post your results.

 

All fuses in the under-the-hood fuse box were rechecked:

all fuses have continuity and appear to be good.

these fuses have 12 volts on each terminal:
EMC 1, ENG1, ECM B, A/C, TBC, ATC, INTBAT, ABS, ING B, RAP, STUD 2, PARKLP, HVAC, STOPLD, HAZ LP, LDLEV, OXYSEN, IGN E, BULM, BTSI, and one more that starts with an H, but I can't read it.


These fuses have 0 volts:
TRLTRN, TRRTRN, TRLBU, VEHBU, RRPRK, RTTURN, LTTURN, FRPRK, HDLP W/W, LTTRN, RTTRN, W/W PMP, HORN, LRPRK, RRDFOG, MIR/LKS, FOGLP, RR W/W, CRANK , TRCHMSL, VECHMSL, TRLPRK, LTHDLP, RTHLP, BULP, IGNC.

Thanks for your patience and help.

 

Good job! All of the ones with zero volts are fine, and shouldn't show voltage until the accessory is operated.

BTSI feeds the circuit in question, but the BU, (back up lamp) circuit also does. I'm wondering if it's the BULM, probably is.

Next step:
On the stop lamp switch, (on brake pedal support bracket, follow the brake pedal bracket, up) there is a light green with black stripe wire, and dark green with a white stripe wire. Both wires should show battery voltage with the ignition in the run position. Push the brake pedal down, and the dark green with white stripe wire voltage should drop to zero. Make sure the volt meter black probe is on body ground

 

Hi.
She was unable to locate the brake pedal switch or the wires. Hopefully, she can find someone to look for her and test the circuit at the switch
Will keep you posted.
Thank you for all your help.

 

In the interim, we have removed the bottom of the shift lever boot and have been manually pushing in on the white plastic switch to get the car out of park.


We were finally able to check the brake pedal switch wires, and they checked out perfect your instructions.
We took the switch off the pedal and tried activating the switch by hand. The shift lever still would not disengage from the park position.

 

Next step is check for voltage at the shift lock solenoid in the console, next to the shifter. Ignition in the run position, engine off, transmission in park or neutral: When you apply and release the brake pedal, the dark green with white stripe wire at the shift lock solenoid must, toggle from battery voltage to zero.

The black wire at the shift lock solenoid must show less than 5 ohms resistance to ground at all times.

If both of those tests are OK, the shift lock solenoid needs to be replaced.

 

upon removal of the cover and arm rest, the problem was quite apparent. Three wires (yellow; green with white stripe; and green with black stripe) had broken off the white plastic wire plug that plugs into the solenoid. I see no way to remove the metal ends from inside the plastic plug in order to reattach the wires. Nor do I know where each of the wires go in the plastic plug.


Any suggestions?


Can you tell me how to remove the shift lock solenoid?


Thanks.

 

In the connector at the solenoid, are there a total of 6 places for wires, (only 5 wires are used)? Three of which are broken? Is that correct?

 

Attached is the connector pin-out for your truck. To remove the terminals from the connector, you will need a terminal disconnect tool like the ones shown on .