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-   2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech (https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/)
-   -   Water leak in rear of engine (https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/water-leak-rear-engine-97587/)

jimmy_for_ever 08-22-2018 11:15 AM

Water leak in rear of engine
 
Hello everybody,
I have problem with my gmc jimmy 2000, before two days I changed the lower intake gasket because there is a little leak in front of it, then when I finished today I poured water inside the radiator but I saw that the water leak from the rear of engine and its drooping continually .

Mike.308 08-22-2018 01:24 PM

Sounds like the intake was not accurately set / sealed or tightened. Get a mirror or endoscope to locate the place and see.

Nola 77 08-22-2018 05:04 PM

It could also be a freeze plug if the engine has been run with straight water for long periods and if one is leaking they're all on borrowed time

jimmy_for_ever 08-23-2018 12:34 PM


Originally Posted by Mike.308 (Post 694607)
Sounds like the intake was not accurately set / sealed or tightened. Get a mirror or endoscope to locate the place and see.

yes, exactly the bolts are not tight when I tight them the leak stop
thanks for everybody

chevyriders 08-23-2018 02:30 PM

Make sure they are torqued to spec, as well as in the correct procedure- not just 'tight"

Mike.308 08-23-2018 03:23 PM


Originally Posted by chevyriders (Post 694672)
Make sure they are torqued to spec, as well as in the correct procedure- not just 'tight"

1st pass 27 lb in
2nd pass 106 lb in
3rd pass (final) 11 lb ft
In Your case I would release them to the 1st pass torque and then tighten evenly with 2nd and 3rd pass.
External leak is easy to find, while internal isn't. You don't want to have oil mixed with coolant ;)

jimmy_for_ever 08-24-2018 03:20 AM


Originally Posted by Mike.308 (Post 694675)
1st pass 27 lb in
2nd pass 106 lb in
3rd pass (final) 11 lb ft
In Your case I would release them to the 1st pass torque and then tighten evenly with 2nd and 3rd pass.
External leak is easy to find, while internal isn't. You don't want to have oil mixed with coolant ;)

I dont have torque wrench I tight it with ratchet :icon_surprised:

dlundblad 08-24-2018 04:53 AM


Originally Posted by jimmy_for_ever (Post 694693)
I dont have torque wrench I tight it with ratchet :icon_surprised:

I think I found the answer to your problem. :)

LesMyer 08-24-2018 07:52 AM


Originally Posted by jimmy_for_ever (Post 694693)
I dont have torque wrench I tight it with ratchet :icon_surprised:

Intake bolt torque is critical if you want lower intake gaskets to seal. Be careful, if your new gaskets leak and you get coolant in your oil the engine can be ruined very easily. I would worry a lot about your repair as it is right now (worried enough to start the repair again with new gaskets). You may want to drain the oil to check if coolant has passed into your engine since your repairs.

Bolt holes for the bolts should be chased with a tap and cleaned out as junk gets packed into the holes and interferes with tightening. Bolt threads should be wire-brushed to clean and apply Teflon sealer (like for head bolts). Use the FelPro Metal/rubber gaskets only - NOT the plastic ones. Torque with a 1/4" drive inch pound torque wrench in the three torque steps using the recommended tightening sequence. It is not good to overtighten either. Buy a torque wrench if you don't have one. 1/4" clicker torque wrenches can be bought for $30 - MUCH cheaper than a new engine. I like to let my repair sit overnight and then go over one more time with the torque wrench.

Good luck and best wishes for a successful repair.

GeorgeLG 08-24-2018 01:48 PM

What Les said. Keep in mind that your intake manifold took a set with the RTV goop on the ends that has hardened and you are now fighting when further tightening the bolts. This may prevent proper uniform torque or even crack the intake manifold.

George


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