What thread size are the distributor rotor screws?
 

Anyone know what thread size the distributor rotor screws are? i know 2 come in the package when you buy a new rotor button but i need to buy new ones that are just a little bit longer for something custom im doing. i checked a few local hardware stores but no luck by matching. anyone know what size thread they are? and what store might have them?
thanks

I know they are metric, probably something like an M3x.5. M4x.7 just seems too big from what I remember, but that is probably what the larger distributor cap retaining bolts are. Considering that I am hundreds of miles away from my garage at the moment, I can't help beyond that.

I just got your PM by the way... Best to just keep it in the open forum anyhow.:icon_wink:

hi Kyle, thanks for the imput. im guessing that they are M3 also. just curious, what the .5 mean in your number?
yeah on the forum is better, i wasn't sure if it was wasting forum space or not, thats why i pm'd you...but this way on the forum others can benefit from it too if they need the same info....

M3 is the major diameter of the screw thread while .5 is the thread pitch and denotes the distance between threads. So a thread pitch of .5 on an M3x.5 bolt will have 0.5mm between threads or 2 threads per mm.

update:

ok Kyle, i got the rotor button screws at a hobby shop. i couldn't find them anywhere else. they are indeed M3.5 size....i got them a little longer and cut them down to the length i needed...what i did was, i modified my used rotor button by drilling two new holes into the plastic. i also broke off the locating tabs underneath it so now i was able to advance the rotor button so i could advance my timing....and what do you know? magic! misfire gone....you my hear a slight hestitation when holding the gas at 1300 rpms only and in neutral but thats once in a blue moon and could be the fuel thats currently leaking inside the intake or the bosch+2 plugs that i still have to take out...

I lost a distributor cap screw, No one sells them.
I used a screw from a switch place cover, lights , electrical outlet cover.
Yes the little white screw holding the cover on in every house in America.
My Blazer fired right up and ran.
Advance wanted $44 for a new distributor cap.
Try it.

Take a screw out of a lught swich cover ,sounds uh funny but it worked for me.

That's pretty inventive way to set rotor position. Really it is!! Unfortunately it does nothing to correct the cam sensor retard which would also be off.

Standard way is to modify the clamp and turn the distributor body until cam sensor retard is 0° ± 2°. This will correct both cam sensor retard and rotor position and will be exact. FYI timing is determined only by the crank sensor and PCM, not rotor position. You may want to check your distributor gear for wear. A common problem.

The original thread is over 7 years old. I would hope that he has the issue squared away by now.

I really like the idea of the DIY tip to use a light plate switch screw for the dist. cap screw. Please note that the original poster 'big daddy' was looking for a replacement for the distributor ROTOR screw and the tip 'use a light switch plate' screw was for the distributor CAP screw replacement. Both these screws are very likely to get dropped into the bowels of the engine where it will never be seen again. So my tip is to start the replacement procedure by wrapping area under the distributor with shop rags or towels so the elusive screws--either cap or rotor-- won't fall into the engine. Another tip is: if you have lost only one of the two screws, take the remaining screw to your favorite auto parts or hardware store and get a replacement matched the lone survivor. NAPA is good about having an assortment of bolts and screws.