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will not start after replacing distributor

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Old 09-07-2012, 03:07 PM
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Default will not start after replacing distributor

I have a 02 blazer with 160,000 miles v-6. I have to replace the oil pressure sensor, but in order to do this you have to remove the distributor. I have replace the distributor back in the correct position as call for by the service manual - I know it is on the correct mark. Now it will not start, I get spark from the coil but not to the wires. Could my problem is in the rotor or the cap. Upon inspection of the distributor I have noticed that the hold down screw that is in the front is worn out and does not seat tightly, and the distributor woobles when I was rotating it by hand. Could this be my problem as well? Would like to find the cause before just replacing parts.
 
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:38 PM
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If your distributor cap is flapping around because the screws are stripped out it's not going to do what you want it to do.

Since you are going to have to replace the distributor go through the steps to make sure you have #1 piston at top dead center again.

I leave the #1 sparkplug barely threaded in, and turn the crankshaft over with a ratchet until I hear air hissing...the #1 piston pushing air out the loose sparkplug. Line up all your marks and you know you have #1 at TDC.
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Presti7 View Post
I leave the #1 spark plug barely threaded in, and turn the crankshaft over with a ratchet until I hear air hissing...the #1 piston pushing air out the loose spark plug. Line up all your marks and you know you have #1 at TDC.

That's a great idea, but you still need to make sure the piston is on the compression stroke, (it pushes air out on the exhaust stroke as well). Aligning the marks on the dampener brings #1 to TDC, but you still need to make sure it's on TDC of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke.

This link explains how to time EDI:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...-timing-24373/
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 03:09 PM
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If the distributor is seated properly you, no way should there be a "wobble". If you have battery your gonna get spark on the coil wire. The rotor does the distributing.
I'd be leary of that 'not seating properly'. Are you sure you don't have it reversed 180 degrees ?
 
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cmanning View Post
If the distributor is seated properly you, no way should there be a "wobble". If you have battery your gonna get spark on the coil wire. The rotor does the distributing.
I'd be leary of that 'not seating properly'. Are you sure you don't have it reversed 180 degrees ?

On 1996 & newer 4.3L, the inside diameter of the hole in the intake manifold is ~.250" larger than the outside diameter of the distributor, so yes, the distributor will "wobble", even when fully seated. The "slop" is what makes camshaft retard adjustable by allowing the distributor to turn slightly.
 

Last edited by Captain Hook; 09-09-2012 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:33 PM
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If it's wobbling bad, it might not be seated into the oil pump correctly.
 
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:11 PM
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Here is an update on my progress. I was on TDC for the #1 cylinder, but the distributor rotor had to me align exactly with the 6 point on the distributor base - for it to start. In order for me to get it to run properly I rotated the distributor until it lined up on the "6" point. Then remove the distributor and re-aligned the crankcase on the two timing marks noted. I also saw that the distributor is not setting in the engine perpendicular to the notation on the engine - moved it back a tooth an it drop right in. Engine started up with no problems. Do I still have to check the cam retard degree? ( I believe that what it is called). So far I'm having no problem with the engine starting. The two timing marks are at about 2 o clock and a plastic tab @ about 4 o clock position. Not the square mark as noted in the service manual. I believe in the s10 forum there is a very good photo of the timing marks.

The point about the woobling it seems to be more of an oblong movement of the shaft than an up and down. The manual do not cover anything about this problem in it's repair of the distributor. This may cause me problems down the road not sure.
 
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:35 PM
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If the SES light is off when the engine is running, the distributor is installed correctly. If it's off one or more teeth, the light will come on and DTC P1345 will be set in memory. Camshaft retard must be checked, and adjusted if necessary, whenever the distributor is removed. Oblong movement of the shaft is worn bushings in the distributor. It's normal for the entire distributor to move after it's fully seated against the manifold and before you tighten the hold down bolt.
 
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Old 09-10-2012, 09:46 PM
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Thanks for your help Captian Hook - my SES light is not "on" and showing no P1345 code. So all is well just wanted to show the results of my finding hope it will help someone else down the way. I do have a transmission problem - will do my research before making a post.
 
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Old 09-06-2020, 02:36 PM
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Default New distributor markings off 1 tooth

Originally Posted by azul blazer View Post
I have a 02 blazer with 160,000 miles v-6. I have to replace the oil pressure sensor, but in order to do this you have to remove the distributor. I have replace the distributor back in the correct position as call for by the service manual - I know it is on the correct mark. Now it will not start, I get spark from the coil but not to the wires. Could my problem is in the rotor or the cap. Upon inspection of the distributor I have noticed that the hold down screw that is in the front is worn out and does not seat tightly, and the distributor woobles when I was rotating it by hand. Could this be my problem as well? Would like to find the cause before just replacing parts.
Wasted half of 7 days searching the web and the rest following bad directions! I marked on distributor cap and side of distributor where #1 prong is on cap, and it was well before the "6" I was supposed to be aiming for. So after numerous tries thinking I wasn't on tdc, I set it back behind the "line and dimple" 1 tooth. Fired rite up. Really hope this saves some1 like me some time and a few buzzes!

 

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