Window switch dead, window stuck down
 

Yes, my driver side front window got stuck down because the switch crapped out. I know it's the switch, the motor worked great, and there are no loose wires or connectors. I ordered a new switch, but it will take probably two weeks to get here. I have to park it at a mall every day (in a parking garage) where I meet my boss to ride out an hour away where we work. I was just wondering if anyone knew how I can get the window to go up until a couple weeks from now when I can fix it? Seven wires go to the connector for that switch, does anyone know which ones to cross to make it go up, or anything like that?

Sorry I forgot to mention what I have:
2000 LT 4-door 4X4

If you have some way to apply 12V straight to the motor then you should be able to. My passenger side was stuck down a few weeks ago but it was the motor that was out and there was no way to get it up.

The dark blue (cavity A in the connector) and brown (cavity E in the connector) at the master power window switch in the driver door controls the driver front window motor.

Well I did that, and it didn't work. Does this mean it's not the switch that's the problem? The motor and regulator still worked great, and when flipping the switch or cross the wires I hear no attempts and moving, no binding, or anything like that, it just does nothing. Also the first time it did this is got stuck down for a few hours and then worked again and I rolled it up, but then it was hot and I decided to take a chance and roll it back down. This was about 4 days ago...still down.

*attempts AT moving
*crossING the wires

crossing the brown and the dark blue won't do anything, those are simply the two wires that go to the motor. (on the flat 8 wire connector on the side of the switch) the 8 wire rectangular connector going towards the rear of the door supplies the power to the window switches, dark green is 12v+ with key on, black is ground (they're diagonally located opposite each other on the connector) you need to connect those to the motor wires with jumpers. (CAREFULLY! big wires, big sparks, big burns if you short 'em) reverse 'em if the window runs without moving (you're just trying to pull it down further)

Never said crossing them would do anything... They run to the motor and only to the motor. How could they do anything.

As said above, you need to supply power and ground to these wires. I would make up fused jumper wires for this task to take the entire window system out of it aside from the obvious wires to/from the motor itself. Power to one wire, ground to the other for a split second to see which direction the motor goes in. If it goes up, hit it again. If down, reverse the wires and go at it again. If nothing, the motor is bad. Could possibly be bad wiring, but unlikely - check the continuity on the wiring.

Thanks for the information guys, I misunderstood about which wires those two were. I thought they were supposed to be the ones to cross, I know the ones leading directly to the motor would be pointless to cross. I suppose the only car with which I've crossed wires to make the window go up was an '86 Volvo 740...

Anyway, I'll take this advice, thanks again.

as weird as it sounds, take the cover that has the window switch and door lock off.

take a long screwdriver and put it on the motor.

tap the screwdriver with the hammer lightly and your window will go up.

weird, but it works.

when it gets hot out, my window gets stuck up and or down. this always works.

i have a 2000 ZR2 Blazer.

This would indicate that either the motor is weak and in need of replacement or there is a misalignment in the track causing the window to bind.