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-   -   WTH...dunno what to do now (https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-generation-s-series-1995-2005-tech-41/wth-dunno-what-do-now-67009/)

jay blaze 01-16-2012 04:39 PM

WTH...dunno what to do now
 
Ok about a month ago I replaced my battery because it came to a point where it was dying all the time and not even jumping it helped....ok done got a new battery...when installed I disconnected the neg to test the alternator and the truck stood on....ok cool.....well this morning I go to start it and its dead....jumped it and it started....wife to it to work, sat for the day....she just called me that it does not start...battery is dead.....Battery is new and the truck was off.....what can it possibly be?

swartlkk 01-16-2012 04:39 PM

Cracked plate in the battery? Possibly a bad connection somewhere on the main battery cables? Have you had the battery load tested?

jay blaze 01-16-2012 04:48 PM

thanks for responding...I have not done anything with the battery yet since I am still at work and wont get home until about 9pm tonight in which most auto places are closed...I will look at all the connections when I get home....truck has been fine for the last month with the new battery...but now its getting colder and its acting up....

swartlkk 01-16-2012 05:09 PM

It could be a bad cable or a starter that's just getting weak as well. I was amazed at how well my K5 started after I replaced the starter (replaced it because the nose cone shattered, not because it was weak). Testing the voltage available at the battery during cranking as well as down at the starter should help you narrow down the problem. They should be nearly the same while cranking. If there is a large difference, then there is a connection or cable problem.

jay blaze 01-16-2012 05:42 PM


Originally Posted by swartlkk (Post 489794)
It could be a bad cable or a starter that's just getting weak as well. I was amazed at how well my K5 started after I replaced the starter (replaced it because the nose cone shattered, not because it was weak). Testing the voltage available at the battery during cranking as well as down at the starter should help you narrow down the problem. They should be nearly the same while cranking. If there is a large difference, then there is a connection or cable problem.


Thanks so much for the info....I wont be surprised that its the starter....I will see whats up when I get to the truck tonight...

Esty 01-16-2012 07:44 PM

Ill tell what I would do first
I would check to see if anything was or is left on dome light glove box light under hood light
Everything that Swartlkk has said is good to look in to you should load test your battery and check your wires
also you should not rule out you Alternator
If your Voltage regulator went bad it can drain your battery wile your truck is sitting
and wile it is running it can be giving the proper constant voltage levels
Some people say to test it is to make sure everything is off no lights no nothing and pull the battery terminal and tap it to the battery and look for a spark if it sparks thats the problem ( I dont belive it works because of computers clocks ect...)
what I do is to disconect the battery over night for a couple of nights and see if it starts the next day then leave it connected and see if its dead
If its dead then I would replace the Alternator
Good luck

walleye seeker 01-16-2012 08:29 PM

check your sun visor mirror light . the cover on mine broke and the light was staying on

jay blaze 01-17-2012 06:44 AM

Thanks everyone for chiming in...the wealth of information has been great....and I will def try all these options.. as of last night when I made it to the truck and was able to start it with a simple jump...started right up so I def think something was/is drawing power from it so to be safe I lowered the dimmer knob all the way down switched off the cargo light and map sure map lights were off....also for extra precaution I disabled my aftermarket remote start (switch under the dash) drove the truck home and let it sit over night....went out this morning and it kicked right over no hesitation at all....now to begin the process of elimination and see what is drawing the power from the truck....

swartlkk 01-17-2012 07:18 AM

If you have a DMM (digital multimeter) or a test light; to test for a current draw, disconnect the positive battery cable and put the DMM (in current [mA or A] mode) or light in line between the battery post & the cable.

If there is a current draw, the test light will be on, it's intensity driven by the current load on the circuit.

Using a DMM, there should be less than 35mA of current load after 10 minutes. While the wait time isn't that long for the older trucks, the newer ones have components that stay active for up to 10 minutes after the key is shut off & the doors are closed so you have to wait to get the true minimum sleep state for the vehicle's electronics. Just worth the wait to see if it will drop lower.

jay blaze 01-17-2012 08:01 AM

Ok i have a DMM at home I can def test this out tonight....I will keep you updated thanks again for taking you time to help me out!


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