Alright, thought I would ask due to it looks like you could use O-Rings there. Might help even too, but that is GM design for you.

Anyhow, off to get a FPR and see about these fuel lines, man they are just YUCK. Already got the O-Rings that hold the lines into the injector assembly. Going to check the O-Ring for the FPR, that might be where my leak is (causing random misfire).

 

MNHawk,

You will notice a small depression in the injector bores, those are supposed to catch a similar area on the poppet to hold the injector in place. When I removed my poppets they were tight, you have to squeeze the long ears on them to get them to come out. With the new injector block the injectors have a plastic sleeve that has that same area to catch the injector bore to make it stay in place. Since I had removed my updated injector block out of a lower manifold from a 2003 G-series van these plastic sleeves were "molded" to the other bores, we had to carefully stress the "catch" area so that the injectors would stay in place... this is the reason most shops will tell you to get the new block from the dealer or through them...I could not resist since I was able to buy the complete manifold (TB, spider, upper/lower manifold, MAP sensor, Evap purge motor etc..) for less than $60.00 on e-bay, have not seen another deal like that since...

 

Strangely, it appears that someone (rather sloppily) chopped off the end of the DIY article I wrote explaining the cleaning of the EGR passages accessible with the plenum off, and some other comments about checking the iac and other units. And just at the same time another diy article on cleaning the EGR, with a very similar style and content to mine popped up... kind of funny.

Anyway, I think that at least there should be either an explanation of cleaning the EGR passages (as I had included) and other related plenum modules,or a link to this info inside the article because it's highly relevant.

EDIT - It now appears at second look that someone has completely slashed the article, including the most relevant info about actually getting into the FPR, the pictures' links, what to do, etc. Umm, WTF is going on?

 

what happened to the rest of the thread on diy fpr? i have a 95 with this same problem and would like to have the other info but it looks like it was cut in half

 

All posts got clipped to around 4000 characters when the server was hacked a few months ago. I do not believe there was a backup of this post so someone will have to redo it.

 

oh i see

 

what code will i get for an OBD1?

 

If there wasn't a robots.txt exclusion from the web archive, it would have been an easy enough fix for just such circumstances.

 

Is there any hope of getting the rest of this article re-written? My FPR has gone bad..and the Haynes manual doesnt do a very good job at covering the replacement procedure. I'd rather not take it to a mechanic..labor costs far outweigh the actual cost of the part... any help is appreciated.

 

I may have some time for this in the next week or so. I go in for surgery tomorrow morning so I will be out of work until 1/5/09 and can probably figure out what is missing from the article. I will add it to my many things to do around here.