Hey all
I have a 97 Blazer, just bought a new system for it,

alpine 103 bt head unit
memphis pr 1.1000 amp
solo baric l7's
5 gauge amp wires
500k cap


factory speakers still sound great,so i will leave them in for a while;

any info i will need for factory radio removel and new install,as well as any hints on running the amp leads to the back would be GREAT!

Hope to hear from ya soon

Kuda

 

I'm not sure about the 97's, but I have a 2000 and the factory radio uninstall/aftermarket HU install was pretty easy. Most if not all of the wires should be labeled and if not I'm almost positive there are threads on this site that tell you which wires are what. All of the speaker wires should be fairly simple..and then of course there are the few wires (12v constant power, ground, 12v memory, illum etc) might take a little bit of playing around with. It only took me a couple of trys to get them right though, the rest of it was a breeze.

You might want to go with a thicker gauge wire as well. For anything over 1,000 watts (I'm pretty sure you said 1,000. Sorry if I'm wrong) you're gonna want at LEAST 2 gauge if not thicker. When you're running the wire from the battery, there should be a rubber grommet under the carpet on the passenger side that goes through the firewall. Try to run it though there, you might have to cut it a little bit depending on what gauge wire you actually do run. Run that down the passenger side of the truck and then of course the remote wire and RCA's down the drivers side. For the ground, I've found that the best place to connect it to is one of the bolts that hold down the rear seats. They're probably a hex head, so be careful not to strip it (ask me how I know lol).

And as for the cap, it really isn't necessary. It's all about personal preference but there are many, many people who oppose them.

--->https://blazerforum.com/forum/audio-video-electronics-8/why-you-dont-need-capacitor-26541/

It's lengthy, but it explains everything you'll ever need to know about capacitors and why you won't ever need one.

Like I said though it's all about what you want to do. Hope this helps a little!

 

Yea, I just read that!

will take it back today and buy another batt.,the cap/cable came together so it will be returned too,I will get the biggest i can get

as far as getting the radio out, is there a security issue to worry about?

 

If the factory radio has the AntiTheft feature and you ever decide to reinstall it, you will have to go to a GM dealer to get a code in order to get it to work. They did that on the newer blazers so people couldn't steal and sell them. As far as wiring the new head unit is concerned you don't have any wires to worry about being that the AntiTheft won't work with aftermarket head unit's. So unless you plan to reinstall the factory radio, you're in the clear as far as security issues are concerned. And if you ever do hook it back up all you have to do is go to a GM dealer and they should give you a code without any trouble. After wiring the new one up there will more than likely be one or two wires left over. Cut them down so there is no bare wire showing and leave them alone.

Here is something that might help. Credit goes to hillbillyinOhio:


"here are the wiring codes for the after market harness
12v constant is Orange - connect to yellow wire on radio
12v switched is yellow(larger wire) - connect to red wire on radio
ground is black, connect to black on radio
ignore the grey and brown, for must and illumination. don't worry about them

Speakers are
Left Front
Tan is positive - connect to solid gray on radio
Grey is negative - connect to gray with black tracer on radio

Rt Front
Lt Green is Positive - connect to solid white on radio
Dk Green is Negative - connect to white with black tracer on radio

Left Rear
Brown is positive - connect to solid green on radio
Yellow(smaller wire) is Negative - connect to green with black tracer on radio

Rt Rear
Positive is Dk. Blue - connect to solid purple wire on radio
Negative is Lt. Blue - connect to purple with black tracer on radio"

Link to the original post: https://blazerforum.com/forum/audio-video-electronics-8/stereo-wiring-install-parts-11284/

 

the amp i have puts out 600 watts rms at 2 ohms,1000 at 1 and 300 at 4

my question is

what is the difference?

i would guess i would run it at 2 ohms..so what gauge wire do i need?
I don't need to beat my brains out in this truck, I just like it to sound good.. bass is nice ,but I don't want to over do it

 

well it matters what ohm your sub is, its dual voice coil so figure out if its 2 or 4 ohms. if its 4 ohms you can wire it to 2 or 8 ohms. if its 2 ohms you can wire it to 1 ohm or 4 ohms. personally if you have a 2 ohm sub i would wire it to 1 ohm, you might as well get the most you can out of what you bought. if you dont want that extreme bass then dont turn up the gain. use 0 gauge for 1 ohm or use 4 gauge for 2 ohms.

 

That is what i needed to know..thanks

 

rockford has a really easy wiring guide here by the way

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp