Looks good man keep it up

 

looks good. 2 inch body lift is a cheap project that won't effect it as a daily driver.
Also you could do the throttle body mod.

 

Got some pictures of my foot well LED's I really like how it looks at night, its a soft light that is helpful if your looking for something or just want to have a cool look while your cruising



My friends legs kinda got in the way of the passenger side, but it gives a really good light

 

Looks good. Can you list all the suspension mods you've made? Those tires did wonders....will they fit without any suspension mods or BL? That's the look I want too...kinda low and stock, but with stuffed wheel wells. Nice job.

 

For PuppyTank, so far I have crank the torsion bars in the front and added 2 inch shakles in the back with an add-a-leaf in the pack. Those Tires are 265/70R15 i believe or something close to that. they are about 30 inches tall and should fit with no problems.

Also I havent updated in awhile but I have gotten some new stuff done now that the summer has given me more time to make some extra money and work on the blazer.

First project to be done was sanding and repainting the frame and other metal components that were beginning to rust. I dont have a good before and after pictures but two winters in Michigan really rusted the blazer pretty badly.

Next I decided to paint the front calipers and bleed the brakes to try and regain some of the lost firmness over time. While the front calipers looked great I then found my rear brakes had seized and were grinding through the rotor and ruined the caliper.



So a parts order later I have new calipers, rotors, dust shields, and brake pads in the back



Again I bleed the brakes and they are harder than they have ever been which is very nice to be able to actually brake again.

Next I decided to buy some ball joint spacers for the upper ball joints that are supposed to raise the front by about an inch. I ordered them from AirBaggit.com, and their customer service was great but the product is lacking in quality. only 3 of the 4 holes would line up on the spacer and required extra drilling and hammering to get the spacer all the way on.


This also lead to significant rubbing of the wheel on the ball joint bolts and control arm end. So I bought some 1 inch wheel spacers to help push the wheels out far enough to not rub any more



These also give huge amounts of positive camber and the control arm will need to be adjusted almost all the way in to help adjust for it.

My opinion on the spacer lift in general is that it works and I am happy with the results but if you are going to do it A. make sure you have good enough back spacing or large enough rims or buy wheel spacers before you put the ball joint spacer on and B. make sure you can adjust the camber before you start.

Here are some pictures of the final product:


and its a bit hard to see but its parked next to a stock Colorado for a height comparison.



The last project I did was to modify my grill guard so that it stopped hanging so low and instead was attached to the frame rails. All i did was unbolt the bottom bracket and remove it and take some L brackets and drill holes so they bolted on where the tow hooks are. It is much stiffer than it ever was and now has higher clearance so my approach angle is better and less likely to get caught on something.


the only other thing I have done is the throttle body Mod and I have found it to really help my take off and let the blazer breath and run better at low RPM

My upcoming plans for the rest of the summer is as follows:
1. fuel injector upgrade/fix
2. custom rear bumper
3. taillight guards
4. steering component overhaul
5. maybe new shock absorbers

 

How hard was it to do the rear dust shields? Don't the axles have to come out?

 

If you were to do it the stock way its a massive pain that does include removing the axles, however I believe you can buy dust shields that come in two sections that connect over the axle. I didn't get a pair of those and just cut the kind I got in the middle and connected them.

 

So very new development over the weekend, my friend found a 1969 Triumph GT6, it was $350 and was a rolling frame and body with no drive train and mostly torn down inside. We then also bought a 1971 Chevy 350 that was already disassembled, the plan as of now is to do a modified restoration, so we are going to put Chevy 350 with an earlier modeled automatic transmission and possibly putting a solid axle in the back. The goal is to have a nice cruiser that we can take to the drag strip and possibly get into the 12's.

 

some info on Ball joint spacers. Keep an eye on the upper control arm on the sides of your ball joint. I and others have had them crack right there. Some people will weld metal along the sides or cut out a strengthening plate on top of the arm with a hole in it above the ball joint. Also people have called rough country and talked them into selling them just the control arms. Good luck

 

Thanks newguy! for the moment I actually took them back off because I was worried about some rubbing that they were causing on the inside of my rims, especially with the new project car I need the blazer to run as smoothly as possible to get parts and tow the car so I'm holding off on suspension projects until I know I can do it right with high quality parts