East German Blazer Rebuild and customizing
#121
What's it for, just to keep water out?
#122
its great to see 95s have great potential great build
#123
Keeping out water is the most important reason for the cover.
#124
Your little cover is sweet. My wiper motor died too, but I just unbolted the arm. I still have the bolt head sticking out of the back end, but its hidden by my spare tire carrier now.
#125
I made a new cover an powdered it black. the old was a little bit to small in the diameter.
And today I bought a garage.
Now I can repai my door hinge pins and rebuilt my front axle.
And today I bought a garage.
Now I can repai my door hinge pins and rebuilt my front axle.
#126
Today I get my steering stabilizer.
Now I have to measure the diameter of the center link and frame distance to build some brackets.
And we took some wood out of the forest.
Now I have to measure the diameter of the center link and frame distance to build some brackets.
And we took some wood out of the forest.
#127
I read your thread and was wondering if you got your 4x4 working and if you did what was broken great job
#128
Front suspension rebuild
Today, I began with my front suspension rebuild.
I lifted the Blazer on some strong wooden planks for a good stand and removed the front wheels.
Then I made the, in my opinion, most f***ed up work on an 4x4 Chevy.
Removing off the Torsion Bars and Keys.
First I removed the torsion bar adjuster screws, pulled up the Key with my Unloader Tool to remove the adjuster nut and relesed the Keys.
Usually, now follows a really bad work. Pushing the Torsion Bars out of the Keys and the lower control arm.
So I tried how tight the torsion bar is in the control arm by shaking around on it and the torsion bar simply slides out of the control arm and the key.
The other side is just like th first side.
When we installed the lift kit we used much of grease on the torsion bar, but I thought it´s away after two years, but ist really useful.
Much thanks of my buddy Normen, he hasw an own shop for US-Cars in germany helped so much.
Tomorrow, I want to remove the steering knuckle and the parts around them.
I lifted the Blazer on some strong wooden planks for a good stand and removed the front wheels.
Then I made the, in my opinion, most f***ed up work on an 4x4 Chevy.
Removing off the Torsion Bars and Keys.
First I removed the torsion bar adjuster screws, pulled up the Key with my Unloader Tool to remove the adjuster nut and relesed the Keys.
Usually, now follows a really bad work. Pushing the Torsion Bars out of the Keys and the lower control arm.
So I tried how tight the torsion bar is in the control arm by shaking around on it and the torsion bar simply slides out of the control arm and the key.
The other side is just like th first side.
When we installed the lift kit we used much of grease on the torsion bar, but I thought it´s away after two years, but ist really useful.
Much thanks of my buddy Normen, he hasw an own shop for US-Cars in germany helped so much.
Tomorrow, I want to remove the steering knuckle and the parts around them.
#129
Okay, after some days of work, I disessembled my complete front suspension.
Now I give away my Control Arm to press in new bushings, installed new seals on the steering knuckle, new tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves and primered my frame with Brunox Epoxy.
Now I give away my Control Arm to press in new bushings, installed new seals on the steering knuckle, new tie rod ends, adjusting sleeves and primered my frame with Brunox Epoxy.