Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums - Just another 2000 Blazer LT repair build

I picked up this Blazer before winter for $1K, and it will be my kid's car to drive around. It had 154K Miles on it, new tires, new brakes, new wheel bearings, and it ran, so I think I got a good deal. Just a lot of things to get up to snuff before I pass it off to my son this upcoming spring. I will be editing my list with resolutions when I check things off.

The list:

1. Banging and rattling sound from back end somewhere. RESOLVED
-Discovered LR shock was not attached to frame, and fuel box was rattling around. Fixed issue by installing a new C-clip and bolt for the shock. The fuel box hanger was rusted pretty badly, but with some extra large zip ties and some creativity, I was able to lock it back in place.

2. Air Bag light on RESOLVED
-After doing a visual check and some continuity checks of the SRS components, I found the clockspring in the steering wheel to be bad. Had a hard time finding a replacement, so I disassembled the part and resoldered on the ribbon cable that was sheared off. After some testing of the component and proper re-installation, the air bag light is no longer on!

2a. Steering wheel radio controls not working RESOLVED
-Resolution was clockspring repair

3. Ride Height was uneven, drivers side was 1 1/2" lower RESOLVED
-Adjusted the T-Bars in the front so it was as even as possible, LR is still off by 5/8", but it is close enough for what it is.

4. Outside edge front tire wear RESOLVED
-After adjusting the T-bars for correct ride height, I could see that the front wheels were leaning out a fair amount. I paid $65 for a cheap front end alignment, and it seems to be ok so far.

5. Loose steering/wandering +/- 5deg PARTIALLY RESOLVED
-Thinking rag joint at this time but haven't looked into it yet, other that visually looking at pitman arm, idler arm, tie rod ends, and center link ball joints which are kind of ugly but didn't seem to have play in them.
edit 1-18-18 Definitely found plenty of play in the rag joint. Bought a new rag and Grade 8 hardware to replace it, steering has improved but still has some movement.

6. Rough ride
-Planning on replacing the shocks and buying a kit for the front suspension replacing control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. Obviously will need another alignment after replacing all of that. I also ordered up some bump stops as the OG's are completely rotted away, causing too much travel on speed bumps and whatnot.

7. Burnt out lights in radio and steering wheel contols and poor sound quality. PARTIALLY RESOLVED
-Planning on a new deck and speakers
-Planning on replacing lamps in steering wheel controls
-edit: New deck (SONY) and speakers (BOSS 2-ways) are installed with steering wheel control module working as well. Still plan on replacing lamps in steering wheel controls at some point.

8. Rear windshield wiper and washer
-When I tried the rear washer, it squirted out of the inside panel of the rear gate. After some disassembly, I found a splice connection to have come apart. I repaired with some epoxy, then taped for good measure
-Tried to take the nut off the wiper so I could disassemble, but is stuck on bad. Doesn't work at all, and is just loose. Will have to look into replacing wiper motor.
edit 4-22-18 Tested the rear wiper one day, and it tried to go, but the shaft is loose into the motor. Guessing it is slipping on the gear. Still planning on replacement.

9. Leaking oil
-Underside is a mess. It has leaking remote oil filter lines, looks like that will be a fun project to replace. Seems like oil may also be leaking from the oil pan gasket. Might also be leaking from the a valve cover, will see if it is when I take of the valve covers.
edit 1-18-18: Looks like oil may have been leaking from the driver's side valve cover a little. It was pretty loose on there, and just didn't seem like there was much of a "gasket line" on the top edge. Seems to be not losing as much oil, but the filter lines still leak pretty good, as well as something from the back/bottom of the motor. Gaskets were replaced, and doesn't seem to be leaking from there now.
Edit 10-20-18: Still pretty messy under there, but doesn't drip too much. May be leaking from the front seal

10. Very little heat when temp below 50 degrees RESOLVED
-I removed heater lines, and flushed the core. Also replaced the thermostat, as when it was getting colder, the engine wasn't warming up properly. Still have some chunky crap in the coolant, so will need to flush everything more proper. But heat is working well now.
edit 1-19-18: Got it flushed out really well this time, then ran flush additive while I test drove a bunch. Re-flushed with water again, then filled with fresh Dexcool. Always takes forever to get it all pushed out, then sucked back in again.

11. Dome light stuck on RESOLVED
-Had to use the dome override switch or the dome lights would be on. Found RR door switch to be the culprit. Disassembled and cleaned with electronic connection cleaner. Works great now.

12. Passenger seat recline lever
-Don't really care, but I did find a replacement handle that is supposed to go right over a partially broken shaft. May have to order one up.

13. Hood very hard to open RESOLVED
-Adjusted the posts the hood rests on as it was coming down too far and locking up the latch. Works great now.

14. Visors
-Both visors have the mirrors/lights missing. Not sure why, it was that way at time of purchase. Cokeheads stole them maybe?:icon_fryingpan: Will have to look into getting some new (used) ones.

15. Battery seems weak RESOLVED
-Currently works OK, but when having really cold weather or starting issues seems to not last for much cranking. Will cross this bridge when I get to it, it's only 2 1/2 yrs old according to the tag.
Edit 10-24-18 Replaced battery. Went with an EverStart Plus 75 (600CCA) from Wally world

16. A/C doesn't work RESOLVED
-Tried to throw in a can of 134a right away, and realized the low pressure valve on the accumulator is bad, it all started spraying right back out. I have replaced the schraeder valve, but have yet to test it with a vacuum pump before refilling. It's still winter, I don't care yet.
Edit 5-7-18 Pulled vacuum on it, but gauges (rented) had a slow leak somewhere. Refilled with 134a with DYE in it to see if it leaks. Could not find any leaks so far! Will check it again it a couple days to see if any finds its way out, but looking good so far!
Edit 5-17-18 The refrigerant leaked out. Compressor is green and oily all over haha. Ordered the Sanden style A/C kit from Rock Auto
Edit 5-23-18 Installed new Compressor, Accumulator, and Orifice tube. Added 1/2oz oil to compressor (besides what came in it), and 2oz oil to Accumulator. Vac'ed down for 45 minutes, then filled with 134a. Nice and cold now! Should be good to go, but will keep an eye on it.

17. No trailer light hookup
-Has a nice hitch, but can not find a light hookup anywhere, so I will have to add one.

18. Cold Starting problems RESOLVED!!!
-a. 30+ degrees, starts and runs fine
-b. about 10-30 degrees, usually starts, but need to gas it up a little bit for a few seconds or it will die right away, sometimes takes a second time.
-c. 5-10 degrees. If I'm lucky, I can get it to fire off, but unlikely and untrustworthy
-d. anything colder than 5 degrees, will not start. not with using a hairdryer to warm up components, doesn't pop with starting fluid, (might pop once).
-I am currently in the middle of replacing the original spider injector with a new MPI style. Also replacing all the gaskets, including lower intake and valve covers. Doesn't seem to be leaking from any of these, but it's only a matter of time, so want to be proactive.
-Fuel pressure checked out great on the rail at 61psi with essentially no leak down (59PSI). Gauge works fine, will have to do test at filter if it seems like the fuel pump is having issues.
edit 1-18-18: -Lower intake manifold gasket looks to be replaced at some point with and "off brand". Found 1 spot where plastic was broken and would give out at some point. Glad I dug that deep.
edit 1-17-18: -Seems like the original spider was leaking from the bottom, fuel washed out #3 air intake pretty good.
edit 1-21-18: -Replacing spider, gaskets, spark plugs wires, dist cap and rotor did not help the cold start problem, but did improve my gas mileage significantly.
edit 2-02-18: -Was cold enough again to do direct fuel pump test, was not in spec, only had 68PSI. Leakdown was ok. New fuel pump is ordered.
edit 2-3-18: -Fuel pump came in 1 day! Dropped the tank and installed. Had to run to AZ and pick up a locking ring because the old one was trash. Tested the "cold start" on 2-4-18 at -5F, and it did start....but took a lot of cranking. Had to hookup the charger/starter to get enough juice. Going to have to do some more troubleshooting I guess.
edit 2-4-18: Found a comment in a thread about someone else having an ignition switch that was being intermittent in cold weather. Said to very slowly turn the key until the starter kicked in rather than twisting all the way forward. It worked! Over and over again. -11F, block heater unplugged, immediate start! Awesome. Will replace the ignition switch at some point.
edit 10-24-18: Son has been having occasional "No Start" issues again now that it's getting cold at night (mid 20s F). Since I knew the battery was weak, decided to start with that so he has plenty of voltage and crank time. Reminded him when it is cold, to turn the key slowly instead of going all the way forward immediately. If he still has issues, I will need to change the ignition switch, and hopefully THAT will take care of it...
edit 2-1-19: He has learned to turn the key slowly instead of all the way, and the thing has been firing right up like a champ. Had major cold weather (-33F) over the last week, but kept the block heater plugged in and she fired up every time!

19. Spark plug wires, Coil, Distributor cap & Rotor RESOLVED
-All are original minus one. I checked resistance and spark on all lines, the originals are in between 1K and 1.8K Ohms, but all had ok spark. The one replacement wire has 6K Ohms resistance! Coil wire has .75K Ohms. Ordered a full Delco replacement set and will be putting on at the end of the current tear down.
-Spark plugs (Iridiums) look good and seem to have been replaced not too long ago. Pulled all except for #3, and will check that one when (most likely) replacing the rag joint and/or other steering components
-Coil seems to be doing it's job, but will replace if necessary.
-Going to replace the Distributor cap and rotor since I am taking it out anyway for the Gasket job.
edit 1-18-18: Removed cap, rotor and distrubutor. Cap and rotor contacts are pretty worn, glad to be replacing these. Replaced with Delco parts. Also replaced plug#3 while I had the steering shaft out. It was an original plug. Upon re-assembly of the distributor etc, I used the wrong screws in the rotor. Then it was throwing a 340 code and the tach didn't work. They were too long and broke the cam sensor making me swear a whole bunch trying to figure out that's what happened. Put a new sensor in and it took care of the code and tach. Had to shorten up the bigger screws, because now the small ones that should have been in there wouldn't bite.
edit 2-1-18: Performed more spark tests just because. Found a good 1/2" spark on #1, and the coil was easily doing a 1" spark, nice and blue. At first there was some intermittent spark, but I believe I wasn't quite getting a good enough ground to my spark tester.

20. Bad Idler and Tensioner Pulleys, squeaky belt RESOLVED
-The pulleys make a little noise, and after pulling them off, the bearings seem rough, so going to replace these.
edit: 1-18-18: Picked up Dorman replacements and installed. Pulleys are quiet but still have some squeaking
edit: 3-6-18 Got the "Gatorback" style belt now by Continental, everything is pretty quiet unless it's really cold, then there's some squeaking from somewhere.

21. When starting, it never idles "up". Just goes right to 500 after starting. Additionally, when letting off the gas pulling to a stop, RPMs drop to below idle like it wants to die. Also if revved up in park, then letting off, I can hear some backfiring, and it wants to die for a second, but recovers to proper idle RPM RESOLVED
-I'm hoping that replacing the Distributor cap/rotor, Spark plug wires, fuel injector upgrade and a good cleaning will help with this issue.
edit 1-21-18: They did not help with this issue, hoping that it will be corrected with the fuel pump replacement.
edit 2-5-18: Fuel pump replacement didn't help with this issue.
edit 3-6-18: The RPM drop seems to not be as severe any more, at least when coming to a stop. I am going to attribute it to fixing the air intake box. Will be keeping tabs on it though.
edit 4-22-18 Did an IAC reset and an extremely small idle adjustment, and seems pretty stable. Still may not have resolved this issue, but it is working great now. May have to revisit once it gets cold again if it is still an issue.

22. Antifreeze smell in cab, fogged up windshield. RESOLVED
-Wanted to wait until the intake/fuel/flush job was completed. Well, it is now, and it fogged up the windshield really bad the other night and smelled like antifreeze. No leaks on the floor or anything else. Must be a really small leak. Heater core ordered. Looks like a really involved job, but well worth it.
Edit 3-6-18: Replaced heater core. Was definitely leaking. No more fogging up the windshield or antifreeze smell.
edit 4-22-18 After vehicle warms up, I still get a sweet smell. It's not leaking, so must just be residual antifreeze down in the floor ducts to the back.
edit 10-24-18 Now that it is colder again in the morning, still have problems with the windshield fogging up when defrost is first turned on. I guess I should have spent more time trying to clean out the ducts. Not losing any coolant, so heater core is holding steady, must just be residual antifreeze that I didn't get cleaned up somewhere in there.

23. Airbox screws/nuts are junk RESOLVED
-The rectangular nuts that are in the airbox for the lid to screw to pulled out of their holes.
edit: 2-5-18 Attempted to JB Weld the nuts into the plastic, which worked for a short time, but they pulled out again
edit 3-6-18 Bought regular 1/4" 20tpi screws and square nuts that fit into the indent on the air box. I JB welded the nuts on so when you take the screws out, they don't fall off.

24. Exhaust rattle and 420 code RESOLVED
-Had to add this. This summer the catalytic converter started a loud rattle at lower RPMs, and it has been throwing an 02 code. Will be doing this myself to save $.
edit 6-21-18 Got the new Cat put in. It's not pretty, but it's tight and works perfect. Used a Universal MagnaFlow, and cut up an extension/adapter pipe as neccessary. Used a cheap exhaust hangar upside down to support it since the original was welded to the old car. Wish I had a welder, ha. Oh well.

25. ABS issues RESOLVED
-Adding this 9-12-18. Son has complained of the ABS light coming on intermittently. I could not replicate the issue, so left it. Yesterday, he had the ABS kick on while coming to a stop. Trying to decide between removing the sensors and cleaning them up properly, or if I should just go ahead and put some cheap hubs on for like 60 bucks from AMZN. I suppose either way, I should take the fuse out for the ABS so it doesn't activate while he's driving. That's all we need is for him to get in an accident.
Edit 9-13-18: Read about the sensors getting dirty over time, so I banged on the back of the front wheel hubs with a hammer, spun the wheels a bit, then squirted some PB Blaster in a hole by the reluctor ring. Issue has not repeated itself, but will be keeping a close eye on it.

26. Funny noise in liftgate TEMPORARILY RESOLVED
-Adding this 9-12-18. There is a funny noise somewhere in the rear liftgate... sounds like a relay or some kind of actuator. At first, I thought it was the old wiper motor trying to do funny stuff since it is shot, but I took out the fuse for it and was still hearing the noise. Intermittent, almost seems like playing with the rear defrost button would sometimes kick it on. I disconnected the rear wires to the window, and it seemed to go away. Waiting for confirmation that the noise is not there from my son.
Edit 9-18-18. Has not heard the sound since I disconnected the wiper motor. Will replace at some point most likely.

27. Grinding brake noise from rear RESOLVED
-Adding this on 10-24-18. While riding shotgun, I heard some grinding from one of the rear brakes. I did check the rears before for a dragging brake sound, (which was a right side e-brake) and they looked alright, but will have to plan on new rotors and pads I guess. It IS completely missing the E-Brake on the left side.
edit: 11-13-18. Son reported that the grinding was getting really bad. Test drove and sure enough, back left was really bad. Pad was toast and so was the back of the rotor. Found a stuck caliper pin. Cleaned that all up, regreased, threw a new rotor on the left and a set of rear pads. Was extremely hard to get the pads seated in the back left caliper bracket. Will have to see how it lasts, was just a quick fix until I do all the brakes, but everything else is in pretty good shape.

28. Rust issues
-Adding this on 10-24-18. Before snow hits, I want to try to Walnut shell blast the rockers using a homemade thing....also want to hit the frame. Will plan on working on this soon, laying a rust preventative layer first, then a coat of some good undercoating paint.
edit 1-3-19: Hasn't happened yet.

29. Add Remote Start
-Adding this on 1-3-19. Picked up an Encore E5 Remote start for him for Christmas. Hopefully isn't too terrible to install.

Well, that's my project! I will keep trying to edit my list, and post up pics as I do more things.