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Project: Broken Driveline begins
PREFACE This build log covers the first 10 weeks of drama that lead up to me having WOT capabilities with my L31 V8 and is by no means completed at this point. I will be copying my v8s10.org build thread over here for redundancy and this one can be shared publicly whereas v8s10.org build threads are members only.
INTRODUCTION Hey guys, I've been reading about and researching v8 swaps for about as long as I've owned my 94 T15 Jimmy. I made it a personal goal to keep the 4.3 in tip top shape and when the engine dies, the truck gets a v8 heart transplant. Well on Novenmber the 8th 2014 driving back from a 1600 mile trip (536 miles from home) with a trailer and my new 31" tires pulling a hill at 5300RPM WOT my engine failed 273K: VIDEO: This swap's primary focus is to be a daily driver. We camp in our car with our dogs, we sleep in our car, offroad in it, watch movies, its a poor mans RV I have no interest in performance mods beyond holding lockup in 4th towing my empty 16 foot 1500lb trailer just like my wifes tahoe does. The 4.3's anemic with my 4800lb curb weight pulling mountains. PLANS I've been really working hard to make an lsx swap happen they ultimately just cost too damned much compared to a 96-99 vortec l31 which is where I'm headed. I'm considering the cheap oil pan route, welding the front half of the v8 pan the rear of the v6 pan or going with the canton 7quart pan $100-300 estimated Going with JTR motor mounts and 2.8 clamshells. $100 bucks estimated Now for exhaust! I've read a post on s10forum of a guy taking the stock l31 manifolds and having them milled down to clear. Hes the only guy I've seen try this but I'm very excited about the prospect. I'd love to bolt straight up to my y-pipe and be trucking for minimal $$. link: Tahoe 5.7 Vortec exhaust in a 97 Blazer AWD - S-10 Forum 5.7 powered 96-99 tahoes and burbs are around here running for 1000-1500 regularly on craigslist. I'm going to buy the whole vehicle that way I can test drive everything before swapping over. I'm going to get it running good in the donor truck then move everything over from there and part out what I can. Progress: Tearing the front clip off and pulling the powertrain. The front diff failed about 5k ago. Pretty sure I broke the engagement gear so I'll have to drop the 100 bucks at the dealership before the engine goes back in. CONCERNS Oil cooler line. Hoping I can just bolt the 4.3 adapter to the 5.7 block and use it exactly how the v6 was. Fuel lines to intake: They look like damn near perfect however I'm sure I'll have to persuade them a little further than bolt-on. Exhaust: Is my 4.3 y pipe to the cat going to be an issue? I have a 2.5 dynomax catback installed if that matters. Cooling: I'm reading that unless I do the 0411 PCM swap I can only control 1 efan, I have pushed the original tube-fin condenser forward to work as my transmission cooler, just behind that is a parallel flow condenser for my ac, finally the 4.3 radiator in the stock position. with 2 derale 12" pushers just behind the grille. Throttle cable fitment. ac hoses appear to work 3.5 inches forward power steering hoses appear to need a few bends to work Looking at making a 2nd gen 96+ stock air cleaner/intake fit. PICS: https://plus.google.com/101704830626...ts/5Tgp7cFXUgq T15 Jimmy V8 Swap Slideshow by uhlhazard | Photobucket https://plus.google.com/101704830626...ts/9RKmtaBHWPf UPDATES: Neighbors just bought a 99 suburban for a grand out the door. I saw them pull it in the driveway as I felt a surge of envy. God if only they would leave me alone with that truck for a few days the things I would do to her... I'm still tearing my truck down. I thought that I'd get lucky and the timing chain snapped causing the ruckus in the video. Nope! But I did notice huge chunks of metal in the pan right at the front. Also bearing material coming out of the front main. The ARP main bolts I upgraded to appear to have done their job keeping themselves and nearby metal attached. I pulled the passenger head and didn't notice anything obvious until I got into the shop. All of the exhaust valves are bent almost 1/8 of an inch where they made contact with the piston. I went out sad thinking I could yank off the drivers head and noticed a bent pushrod (shiny spot amongst the carbon) Checked the other pushrods and half of them were bent. I've never had the heads off before and the piston surfaces look damn good I must say. I've run a 6psi wynjammer for about 2 years and ran it at 10psi for another year absolutely abused on this engine. Never got to drive in high elevation though, someday. A friend of mine has a 96 3/4 ton truck 2wd for $1000 that has a 5.7 4 bolt main 4l80. I'm looking at doing the 4l80 swap but I think I'll be better off with the 60 for fuel economy and performance. I figure my base budget will be: $800 Donor truck $250 canton oil pan $100 motor mount adapters $100 milled manifolds So we are at $1250 to start with. I'm sure the limg on the donor will be leaking and already have a set of felpro ms98000 ready to install I'll throw on an oil pan gasket/front main/rear main and gm performance parts single roller timing set. So thats another $100 bucks and hopefully the donor spider/regulator isn't leaking! I'll do my own wiring. I'm looking forward to cleaning up everything and having access to a new firewall electrical bulkhead to feed mods through: 5 wires Interior lockout winch controls 1 wire per efan for feedback light indicating status 2 wires per efan for controls override on/off/auto 3 wires fuel pressure sender 1 wire oil temp 1 wire ambient air temp for dic 1 wire class 2 serial data for dic X wires obd2 port My goal is to keep the budget as low as possible for this build. I want the maximum bang for the buck I can get. Donor truck will have an available front and rear differential, doors, body panels, transfer case etc. |
I got my donor truck!
Picked up a 99 GMC Suburban 2wd from Dallas yesterday. Had to hammer on the starter to hear it crank but the fuel pump is out of comission. Price paid was low enough that unless the engines perfect Im going to rebuild her out of the gate. Trans is going to be my next problem. I believe all I need to do is swap output shafts and change to a 4wd bellhousing. My trans concern is will I need to measure the selective washer behind the input shaft after the replacement output shaft? I dont have the necessary tools and Im worried the output shaft will change things. I have a spare 4x output shaft from a 96. Going to troubleshoot the fuel pump on the otherwise drivable donor. I want to hear everything moving before I tear into it. Engine has no visible oil/coolant leaks besides the cooler lines. Oil looks old but not contaminated and evrrything in the engine bay is giving me hope for a good running engine! Going to part out valuables on the burb to help pay for the swap mounts and oil pan. Then i need to find a shop that can mill my manifolds down to tuck the stock l31 manifolds inside my frame rails like the stock 4.3. |
Alright, got a fuel pump tossed into the donor, SHE RUNS!!!!
https://plus.google.com/101704830626...ts/QqtUntxTsmL 2nd video: https://plus.google.com/101704830626...ts/FxuAjiY4aUh I kept moving the dizzy a hair resetting the p1345 code starting the truck, repeat. The light is now off, truck still has a poor idle responds well on WOT but I'm thinking the old fuel in the tank isn't helping troubleshooting. Hopefully the computer can tell me what's going on via codes until then I'm gonna idle her in the backyard until the fuel runs out then check the plug condition/probably new plugs and refuel her with some fresh 87 octanes. Cap/rotor is new and wires are look good but I'll replace em after the plugs/fuel if it's still running funky. Challenges: PASSLOCK 2 SECURITY: The 99 has a chip/key anti theft system that I need to disable: How To Permanently Disable GM PassLock System | KingBain Alternatively I can tune it out of a lot of money falls out of my ass for a tuner. TANK PRESSURE SENSOR: Probably can rig this up but I'd rather tune it out if possible BELLHOUSING: Is there a difference between the 4x4 and 2x4 bellhousing in 1999? Notes: There IS on our blazers 93/94. The 4x4 1 piece case has the lower half unbolted with brackets from the engine to the transmission. The 2wd trans has a full bellhousing that bolts to the aluminum pan on 4.3 but I think there is just a steel plate on 2x4's in the v8 application, or nothing. 2ND GEN AIR ASSY SWAP THEORY: I'm looking at using the stock 4.3 air cleaner assy from the 96+ v6 from the air box to the throttle body. There MAY be differences in the v8 maf vs the v6 and also diameter of the ducting. I'd also like to try and use the 4.3 cpi air cleaner if possible however I feel it is unlikely to work due to the bends required. MOTOR MOUNT ADAPTERS: The v8 has a knock sensor that interferes with SOME motor mount adapters. The solution is to cut into the adapter where the knock sensor goes and install a 45* npt fitting to angle the sensor away from the mount. I'd like to avoid this hack job **** if possible. The next related motor mount issue is available options: our 1st gens have mount pads that bolt to the frame. This makes it easy to just unbolt those pads and bolt the adapter plates to that (please note that most adapter plates are adjustable both forward/rear engine movement, and some are adjustable up/down.) EVEN STILL some mounts let you adjust engine position left/right in the bay. I'd like to match my original engine position. You can get our **** 4.3 mount adapters, 2.8 clam shell adapters (smaller profile) and standard v8 mount adapters. I'm leaning towards v8 adapters. They should grant more cushion for the pushin vs the 2.8 and I already own half of the kit via my donor. |
2015/03/05 Mounted the engine to the engine stand, pulled the flexplate and noticed very clean recently replaced cam freeze plug and those 3 pipe plugs above it. Also the other freeze plugs appear to have been replaced which reinforces my theory of this engine having been recently overhauled (I'm guessing within the last 100k or less) The flexplate is in excellent shape and has minimal tooth wear. The rear main seal has surface rust so it's obviously not leaking the pan gasket however is a different story. I'm probably going to replace it if I'm feeling frisky and the wallet can take more abuse.
I pulled the harness completely off of the engine and tossed it into the now storage building suburban. I then pulled the engine oil cooler/filter adapter and got sad. It's totally different from the 4.3 oil cooler adapter. I'm now searching out trying to find which adapter I can use. I'm trying dearly to retain my remote oil filter and oil cooler setup as I've seen the 4.3 hit 260* oil temp many of times. For some good news, I dropped the manifolds off at the machine shop, Custom Machine and Fab about 20 minutes northeast of me. Going to pull 0 off of the top of the manifold and 3/16 of an inch off of the bottom of the ports. The machinist knows exactly what I need done, I brought my old 4.3 block/head and old 4.3 manifolds to help convey my plans better to them. We noted that when he brings the manifolds into the block that they will interfere with the v8 mount shell so I'm going to go with the JTR 2.8 adapters. What I'm wondering is if I can get away with using the 2wd mount adapters AND the 7 quart canton pan. I'm going to buy them first and see. If not I'll just order the damn 4x4 mounts. I also removed the exhaust off of the suburban back to the muffler. The exhaust shop "It's Muffler Time" in Conroe told me to bring them my stock cats so they can just weld them up so I don't have to buy all new stuff. Totally kickass guys over there. They already did my catback designed to work with my future v8 swap about a year ago while I was rocking the 4.3 so they will fill in the gaps from the manifolds to the cats then from the cats to the muffler keeping all of the stock o2 sensors intact. I'm still not sure where to install my wideband, thinking about just monitoring 1 bank. Then I'm wondering if I will benefit from an H or an X design exhaust system since I'm going to be dual to the muffler. Hell I suppose I can replace/add a muffler per bank I just haven't really thought that part out yet. My goals are not performance for the sake of noise/drivability. Stumbled on a build log where a guy says " I had to notch the AC bracket to clear the water pump inlet; hopefully it will be strong enough. I’ve seen other guys on here do the same thing so I should be alright." I ran outside like WTF notch the bracket. Well I discovered that I didn't have to notch the bracket for the water neck like he did, my intake/thermostat housing/egr/water pump heater hoses all interfere with either 4.3 accessory bracket. I'm forced to not only have 1 alternator but pay actual money for ac lines since I'll be doing the sanden conversion afterall. Sandens do own so I suppose theres that. |
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I just scored a new parts truck!:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529703 She has the cast iron front diff and 8.5 inch rear diff. I'm gonna sell the rear diff but I'm gonna keep the cast iron front diff. This should help me graft over all of the differences I have between 1st gen/2nd gen/powertrains as well. I've never seen a cast iron front diff in person until today. Freaking awesome. I already have a no-slip in my disk 7 5/8 rear with arp studs and a nice beefy diff cover so I'm not worried about the 8.5 diff so much. Listed that guy on clist hopefully someone will buy it! Ooh and to top it off, got a blue texas title in hand, signed by the previous owner and he clearly forgot to date it. 100K original miles. (engines knocking) |
Well it's been raining for basically 3 days straight. I have a dirt backyard and no $$ for a cover/concrete YET! Plans call for a shop AFTER the v8 swap. Ooh well.
I have been stuck indoors working/researching. Came up with an acdelco P/N for the badass power steering pulley: 12605677 1988 13 Escalade Tahoe Suburban 6 2L 6 6L GM Power Steering Pump Pulley 12605677 | eBay After talking with wildbill83 I'm going forward with the Hayden 291 oil cooler adapter. Hayden 291 Oil Filter Relocation Aluminm Natural Kit | eBay I'm wanting to be 1000% confident in the oil cooler kit so I'm researching running quality lines/fittings from the oil filter adapter to the oil filter. Then running the stock 4.3 oil cooler lines to the rad and upgrading them when $$ becomes available. (I have a set with 10k on them) I'm thinking I'll do hardlines with fittings from the hayden adapter to the front of the block under the power steering pump mimicking the OE setup then curve 90 and thread on some hose from there to the oil filter. Probably be 200 bucks in fittings/labor but no worries about blowing a hose. I'm still awaiting my milled manifolds from the machineshop. I haven't purchased motor mount adapters or the oil pan yet. Trying to sell some parts off of my 2 donor vehicles to finance that. HA I found out that in a 4l60e rebuild kit theres a plug that comes in it. It's for the servo bore to eliminate the check valve for a better 2/3 shift. Customer didn't want it modified so I left it alone. Well that plug fit PERFECTLY into my dipstick tube of my old 4.3 cpi and Im pretty sure the dipstick tube diameter is the same in both. This saves me from having to do any tapping on the engine block. Just a simple plug and tapping on a socket. Probably fill the cavity with RTV for sport. |
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I'm trying to find a few pictures of my core support but heres a breakdown of the layers: fan shroud/radiator/AC Condenser/transcooler (old tube/fin ac condenser)/derale 12" pusher fans/grille
Alright, got some progress done and new issues cropped up. (shocker I know) The entire air intake assembly from the v8 is not usable. I bought this 96 Jimmy and swapped it's intake cleaner assy over and the hose was hitting the oil fill tube coming from the valve cover. The 4.3 oil fill tube has a different thread design than the standard 5.7 filler neck so the swap idea was out. I then unscrewed the cap from the filler tube on the 4.3 and noticed that both ends were basically the same and the tube was just an extension of the cap. I pulled the 5.7 cap from the tube, unscrewed the tube from the valve cover and tossed the 5.7 cap directly into the valve cover then bolted up the air cleaner assy! The next issue: maf compatibility. Is the 4.3 maf going to work with the 5.7 computer? The two maf's are different in size enough that a heat gun and persuasion couldn't fit the 5.7 maf into the 4.3 duct. I'm assuming the 4.3 is just a more restrictive version of the 5.7 and should work fine based on what I glean from reading all of these 2nd gen swaps. I've not seen any mention of people talking about making the 5.7 maf work or programming the new ecu to read it properly. So unless someone specifically knows I'm just going to find out when I first start her up. The 96 air cleaner assy is a HUGE space hog and won't fit well/at all on my Jimmy so I'm going to see if I can cut some of the stock 4.3 cpi air cleaner to mate up to the maf rubber joint. It looks like it will be a pretty clean connection but I won't be able to really mock it up and verify until the engine is in position and the core support is back in. I scored the 2nd gen coolant bottle/ecu mount. The 99 burb ecu slid and latched right in as expected. I'm thinking I can swap the inner fender so everything bolts right up as theres fancy fasteners preinstalled. I also went out and stuck a magnet to my new cast iron front diff and wasn't disappointed. Sold my 8.5 rear end. Sad to see her go but I'm looking at getting one in the distant future. I MUST focus on getting the damned v8 installed before I start jacking around with things that already work. Gonna start pulling parts off of my donor suburban and listing them on fleabay/clist. Same on the 96 4x4 Jimmy. My wifes not exactly thrilled at my 5 derelict vehicles in the backyard but I'm having a blast finally getting to do the swap. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529819 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529819 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529819 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529819 I realized I couldn't run my original 4.3 cpi accessory brackets so I'm using all vortec brackets from the v8. Looks like I'm getting a sanden! I pulled the lines from the 96 compressor and the threads are identical to my Jimmy condenser and filter dryer. 1 issue I ran into when I removed these lines they are not attached. Is mine broken or they all like this? I'd really like to reuse the hoses if I can. Any thoughts? https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529819 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529819 Got the 4.3 air cleaner assy mocked up where she will be once the v8 is installed and i should only need a very small piece of ducting to connect it to my stock 94 air cleaner. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529819 Maf size differences: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529819 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529819 I ordered the 2WD conversion mounts from car shop inc with the rubber 2.8 mounts. I can't do the v8 mounts because the shell on the block will interfere with my manifolds and the 4.3 mounts are an abortion and that design should be banned. I also ordered the 2013 escalade power steering pump pulley for 28 bucks shipped. I'm kind of stuck waiting on the manifolds back from the machine shop to test fit clearances. That determines how I proceed with oil pan/dipstick tube. Once all those things are there I have to figure out my oil cooler line plans. Electrical harness is on standby until I have the engine in the bay with the front clip mostly in place. The next job on the project is swapping front diffs which will be a project in and of itself. My 94 is broken, the 96 appears to work, and I have a diff off of an 01 thats mostly borked. That freaking gear that shears off is 70 bucks! Anyways my new iron diff has a DRAIN PLUG!!! and will bolt right up to my flanged cv shafts. Hopefully shes perfect so I can push forward and complain about the next phase of issues. |
Thanks, I found the ac delco p/n 1532460
I've been doing a ton of trials for cooling off this truck with various options. These are derale 2210 cfm 12" pushers. They will absolutely cool off my v6 with 10psi pulling a 1500lb trailer containing a bravada at 75mph when it's 107* outside and in traffic. What I did have to do to keep the fans working: 1: throw the fan harness that comes with them in the trash 2: buy a 60a megafuse holder 3: buy continuous duty solenoid 4: profit. With this setup I have run the truck non-stop for 4 days driving to west texas and back and sleeping in the truck ac the entire time. My curb weight is around 5000lbs when I'm packed up for trips. Hell of a test I'd say! |
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I'm excited to see your solution. I forgot to order my oil cooler adapter, just did it now.
Ran into some fun today. Working on removing the front cast iron front unicorn and the torsion bolt is broken off inside of the key on the drivers side. I got really excited when I saw the inner fender mud flap. Hopefully it will work on my 1st gen: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529899 Here she sits on jackstands for the duration: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529899 I'm wondering if I need to swap into this 2nd gen sway bar. I'm going to research if theres a way I can fab up a quick disconnect for it. Might be awesome. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529899 The brakes look great, just everything has this evil non-customary rust coating. The pads are looking like new, the rotors look new, and the cv's appear leak-free. I'm dual piston brakes so I'll toss these spindles/rotors/calipers/pads/hubs on the classifieds for cheap. Hoping to have the diff out tomorrow but it's supposed to rain. |
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I just traded the rims/tires and front seats/center console for a brand new strapon impact!!!
https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430529944 He drove the friggin truck to my house too! Okay back to the project. Wildbill, thank you very much for the oil filter line pics. I did order a pioneer spin-on adapter with bolts also. I hate using two adapters but there isnt a bolt on 90* kit ive found yet. When i do ill get one and share the info. Currently stripping down the 2nd gen with my new impact in the rain. Still working on pulling that cast diff. Not much left in my way besides rain. I also scored a t50 torx and he warrantied out some of my gearwrench rachets. Kickass trade day for sure. |
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GOOD NEWS: Wife made my favorite: Home made meatloaf, mashed potatoes, and buttered brussel sprouts!
https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 Now for the bad news. The oil cooler threaded adapter I ordered is wrong.I picked up the manifolds from the machine shop. Mocked them up. Drivers side hits the body where the egr portion is. The drivers side hits the steering shaft. The drivers side is huge. The passenger side might work. No amount of milling will make the DS fit on a 1st gen. Based on the body differences between my 1st gen 94 and my 2nd gen 96, I'm guessing the 2nd gen won't have an issue so hopefully I can sell them on the classifieds to someone doing the easiest v8 swap (4.3 96+ to 5.7 96+) ever. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 My life would be a lot easier if I didn't love the boxy 1st gen's so much. The stock oil pan will never clear my front diff with the rough country 2.5 inch lift. The lift only drops the diff down about 3/4 of an inch. It's just not 4 inches. I'm using the 2wd adapter plates with 2.8 mounts, I don't want my engine jammed into the passenger side nor do I intend on touching my HVAC box or body. I'm focusing my mangling almost exclusively on the manifolds. I need to buy a proper o2 removal tool, my performance tool one is absolute garbage. All it does is spread out and slip over to the next set of splines. Pulled my broken front diff. Based on the loud explosion sound and no more 4x4 I fully expected a sheared side gear as this is a "common issue". Well I've got 270k abused miles and this is my first failure so I kind of wonder what the hell common failures are. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530056 |
I have no intention of converting to a floor shifter or a cable shifter like the 2nd gens. I purchased a LH camaro 305 tbi manifold. Will pursue the RH if it fits well.
The oil filter adapters I purchased will not work with my goals so that kind of sucked. You were right about that wildbill. I've emailed hamburger performance for their adapter P/N 3329 as it's basically designed just like the stock 4.3 adapter so I can go straight into the 4.3 hardlines. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-3329 I hope to maintain the stock transmission location, so I suppose you would call the "neutral" engine position. I pulled my cast iron front diff today, pulled the axle tube off and inspected the internals. Everything appears perfect. The splines show no damage/twisting and the engagement gear is in excellent shape. The fluid was a golden brown. Ooh and it has a DRAIN PLUG!!! I went ahead and went through the aluminum 01 front diff I bought a while back, cleaned her up, resealed, and assembled everything. Gonna toss her on classifieds among a bunch of other parts. Looks like I'm a few hundred behind on the project. While I had my original diff removed I pulled the DS 4.3 mount and installed the 2.8 clam shells. The original bolts that hold the 4.3 mounts on are too large on the single bolt side of the 2.8 mounts so I used some slightly smaller diameter bolts I had on hand. I also can't figure out how the hell to remove the manual trans from the engine. I pulled every bell housing bolt and the trans is not moving anywhere. I left it on the jack overnight while I do research on the issue. The tcase came out without issue, fluid's great. I'm going to use this tcase because it doesn't use the front prop shaft that requires greasing. I haven't really done anything towards the swap. I'm just trying to generate some doll hairs to finance the next steps. |
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Alright, I haven't really done much directly to the project though I've started sorting out my suburbanshed. Got all of the parts that are for sure going into my Jimmy placed inside of the jimmy with the seats folded down. I put all of the dirty for sure parts in the suburbanshed, and all of the random bits of uncertanty there as well as items I'm selling. This leaves the 2nd gen Jimmy which I'm putting all of the "useless crap" into.
I got the new gearbox warrantied out today at advance. Bought it in 2011 and it's been leaking out of the input shaft since 2012. Bought a new moog pitman arm. My power performance arm is bad and I can't find the receipt so that cost me $60 bucks. Installed her and she's looking groovy. (I hate cleaning/painting, can you tell?) https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530168 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530168 Installed the donor suburbans 1 touch power steering gearbox into the wifes tahoe. It's just absolutely amazing. Done with power steering crap, I cleaned the hell out of my truck, there is no escape for mud in that front crossmember. Got my fuel lines ready to bolt on. It was pretty damned simple. The 4.3 cpi hard lines terminate at a 90* angle with the pressure line on the drivers side and the return line on the passengers side. The 96+ vortec has pressure/return opposite. I just pulled a few of the metal line clamps that were unbolted off of the hoses, and just flipped which side each was on then put the metal clippies back in place. Now that solves the left/right mixup. The next challenge was the angle. The 96+ vortec fuel lines on the intake run at a 45* angle so I grabbed the 2nd gens donor fuel line from the intake. hand threaded the pressure/return line into it, mocked up the position and with some random hand tools gently persuaded that 90* into a 45* angle. I'm sure I'll have to bump/twist/curse when the engines in place but I'm confident enough now to call that done. I've been contemplating some basic electrical system goals: Run as much stock GM stuff as I can. Stock relay center I want connectors to segment off entire portions of the harness for maintenance. This just means add connectors later when I can afford them. I realize this adds to electrical design complexity in regards to the addition of points of failure. I feel that the tradeoffs are well worth the risk. Firewall bulkhead for electrical accessories. Something to run my current mods through and with room to accommodate future mods. I currently use weatherpack connectors for my projects however I'd like to find connectors (or a company) that are suitable for use inside of the vehicle. I don't want the unnecessary weatherproofing bulkiness for say the pillar pod wiring. Thinking about running the transmission electrical connector routing with the transfer case wiring or do I run them in separate looms side by side? The donor and my 2nd gen have fuel tank pressure sensors. I like this because it lets you know if you have a fault in the tank, like a hole from rust or damage. I plan on swapping the 2nd gen tank and sending unit (which accomodates the pressure sensor) but my sending unit is old school metal threaded fittings. The 2nd gen is this fancy schmancy plastic crap. How do I proceed? Is there a way to install the pressure sensor into my existing sending unit or tank? I refuse to just "tune it out" with a tuner I cannot afford. |
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Hammering on my sheet steel makes me cringe. I have a 1" body lift and have no intentions of hammering stuff. The stock harness entry point is both on the drivers and passenger side tucked well behind inner fenders. I like those locations. Keeps splash and heat away. Also I like everything concealed out of sight. There is a 3rd entry point towards the inner firewall beneath the hvac box. I might end up using one of those rubber plug things from the help section but I have a weatherpack firewall bulkhead electrical connector somewhere that I'd like to toss in there if it clears.
I use the ATRA-4l60 rebuild guide. It's a pdf written incredibly well with excellent pictures. You can google it and probably find it for free. I found that out after I bought mine. Alright, on to todays events. I'd like to preface this by saying this is by no means a guide on how YOU can rebuild a transmission. This is my 21st transmission, I'm an amateur hobbyist, I have no formal training. If my info helps you, then by all means enjoy it. My goal is to swap tailshafts on my 99 donor burbs trans. I'm also going to do some redneck shift kit stuff. I'm not looking for racey shifts, I just want to feel every shift as firm. First thing I did was clear out a space on my bench. I use cardboard from a box to help minimize the mess fluid likes to make. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 The donor sitting outside on the ground where I left her the day she was pulled. Leaving in the dipstick tube and converter keeps almost all of the water out. The tailshaft is still an open cavity but I saw no water in there when I drained everything. https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums...psnjukm1hm.jpg This transmission has the deep pan but no drain plug which is dumb. I have a stock gm deep pan with drain plug (which is the best pan IMO) on my 94 trans. I had to come up with a creative way to drain the purple fluid in this trans (we will find out why it's purple as we disassemble) https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Alright, the fluids all drained out. (well not really, each component hides iirc 27 gallons per part and all you can do is get it all over your clothes and any nice tools you have around) Now because I'm fancy with a 2 piece transmission case I'm going to remove my bellhousing. The only real purpose of removing the bellhousing is because it can get in the way. My entire shop is inside of a 14 foot cargo trailer and the bell hits you in the hips when you walk by to get that damned universal socket you forgot. DO NOT USE A TORX BIT!!! It will PROBABLY destroy the bolt AND your tool. You need to buy a fancy schmancy bit called a "torx plus" and the size is a 50. Don't get a ****ty one. Get a good one, you need a good one because you need to use something similar to the Red October to remove the bolts. Electric impacts are neat and all but this is work that grows chest hair. If you carefully inspect the photos below you will see the red october with a 1/2 impact swivel from tractor supply and a 1/2 to 3/8 impact adapter coupled finally to the tp50. You will need the swivel or an extension to reach the 2 outer bolts. I'm poor and can't afford an impact extension. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Alright, the bellhousings off, the fluids drained. Now I get out my stainless steel cookware that I paid 2 dollars for at a garage sale at my neighbors house filled with random sockets. Grab your dirt bike stand. Everyone has a dirtbike stand right? I have an awesome story behind how I got mine. I only tell that story in person though. Now, what's awesome about the dirt bike stand is it's strong as hell and has a huge hole in the middle with a shelf on the bottom for my stainless bowl to catch the 27 gallons that are about to come out. It's also deep enough to fit a 2wd shaft. Now, I'm 6'1" and 130 lbs. 4l60e's are relatively rediculously heavy. Go eat some spinach, and grab that trans, stick her output shaft into the hole. That was hard, go take a break, watch a tv show on netflix and eat lunch. Tell your wife shes a badass. She probably is. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Trans is on the stand. Now it's about to look like Kill Bill in your shop. Grab that cute little 3/8 electric impact. Slap a 13mm deep on her. Pull the pan bolts. Leave the top one, yank the rest. Now keep 1 hand on the pan, 1 hand on the impact, pull the last bolt out. Drop everything on the floor. Thats usually what I do. Gently tilt the top of the pan away from the case to try and keep as many gallons of blood you can in the pan and the rest falls down on the stand and not on your brand new Vasque shoes you saved up pennies for. Stick the pan on the bench, inspect the remaining contents. The magnet is always going to be a little hairy. It's normal. Now for fluid colors. If the fluids black or purple like mine, whip out the wallet. Parts will be bad. If it's pink, you probably thought you could fix a bad trans with a fluid flush. Excellent. Whip out that wallet, and probably a credit card since you are about to drain and RECYCLE 50 bucks in fluid. You bastards better recycle. It's not hard. Now that the pans off, pull the filter and throw it in the trash. It's bad. If the pans off, the filters bad. It's physics. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Next step, we need the harness out of the way. Namely the lockup solenoid. It's jammed into the pump. We need to remove the pump to get to the goodies. Here I've already attached my amateur hour front pump removal tool. They are Vice Grip brand vice grips. I think the generic term is "locking pliars". The pwm solenoid is in the way of removing the lockup solenoid. Theres a clippie in the channel beneath it you need to remove. I got this trick bottle cap opener but if your wife didn't find you one in the lowes parking lot then you can just use a regular flathead screwdriver. If you can't see the clip, spin the solenoid around right round like a record. Use a flashlight. 2 10mm bolts hold the lockup solenoid into the pump. If the electrical harness clippies break off, go buy a brand new harness. The plastic was cooked. Not a bad time to install a trans cooler too. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Now for the pump removal. I was at the junkyard in north houston and saw this red handled screw driver on the fan shroud of a GMT400 pickup. About 30 minutes later walking by it was still there. I figured what the hell, someone forgot it. Tossed it in my bag and away I went. The red color made me think it was some cheap chinese crap but it was pretty big. My buddy is a big snap on guy and told me I found a fourty dollar screw driver. Damn good score. Stick that strapon screw driver in between the pump and the transmission and pry the pump up. It helps to have a friend pull the vice grips up while you are prying. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Alright, the pumps on the bench, lets pop the band anchor pin off of the band with that free strapon screw driver. This opens up the band so you can pull the drum clean out of the case. I wasn't thumbing for a ride, the image needs to rotate 90* anticlockwise. Strange things started happening tearing into this trans. First part:when you remove the reverse input drum, a snap ring shouldn't fall out onto the bench. Mines probably ruined. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Now why the hell was the reverse drum snap ring off? Well it appears the last jackass to work on this transmission installed the input drum thrust bearing backwards. We all make mistakes. This ruined the reverse input drum, input drum, selective thrust washer, thrust bearing, reverse input drum clutches, entire pump, stator support. Jesus Christ. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 To help work on the input drum, use a paddle bit slightly larger in diameter to your input drum and drill a hole into your workbench. It's awesome. (use compressed air to clean out the assy every time you insert/remove. MDF does not belong inside of a transmission.) https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 To get into the front pump, use a 13mm impact and pull the 5 bolts off. the halves will separate and you can get inside where the magic happens. Or in my case, the carnage: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Well that was an hour of work and 2 hours of writing. Alright, 2nd half of the day. Went to a "Habitat for Humanity ReSale" about 15 miles south of me. It's like if you went to a home depot and the entire store was on clearance. They had some 20A hospital grade leviton receptacles for 4 bucks. The box looked distressed but damn, thats cheap! Got there with 5 minutes to close. Going back tomorrow. I saw an electrical section I need to exploit. At this point in the trans I started reading the book a lot. Measuring clutches and such. The next photo is of my finders keepers strapon screw driver. I did not use the screw driver as a punch with a hammer. Just like the instructions say. So just make sure that you don't use your screw driver as a punch with a hammer because thats exactly how I didn't remove the converter seal from the pump. (Use the rubber side, otherwise gloveless you will make your tools into cheese graters) https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Using my parking lot snap ring assist tool and some large c clamps I removed the input drum snap ring holding 1 of 3 springs of death in place. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 Now we get into the front pump. The goal here is to check the beating heart of the trans. Make sure the pump is not more than 1 piece. Also read the manual. Theres measurements to be taken with a straight edge and feeler gauges. My pump was trashed. It looked like someone put ooh I dunno, half of a thrust washer into it. Aluminum always loses. This put me in a tricky dilemma. My donor rebuilt trans is of a 1994 vintage and lacks the PWM pump I need for the 99. Now I do have a 96 pwm pump spare so I cracked her open and what do I find? It's a 10 vane. Damn. Heres where features erode function. The 13 vane is allegedly weaker than the 10 vane pump. I'm told the 13vane is done because of the hella fancy lockup strategy the 98+ uses. It essentially is never in full lockup I suppose you get a smoother flow of fluid with the higher volume of vanes. So an analogy: 4l60e and 700r4 lockup until 1995 was like a standard light switch. Lockup on or lockup off. Then GM designed this failure prone mechanism called "pwm". It works more like a dimmer switch. Theres on/off and theres the in between stuffs. This is supposed to keep you in lockup longer, keep the trans temps lower, and save fuel economy at the expense of lockup converter fatigue. The on/off converter clutches from the 700r era is called a "paper" clutch. Now I don't know if it's really paper but whatever. When they introduced the pwm lockup they had to strengthen the converter clutch so it was made out of carbon something or other. THEN the 98 full on fancy lockup came out and they made the clutch out of woven carbon fiber iirc. Well that was a helluva tangent. SO my 13vane pump is crap, my 10 vane pump is magical. If it fails it's just me pissed at myself so I did what any poor person does. I took the 13vane pump ring, stuck in the 10 vane pumps... vanes, added the 3 best from the 13vane and stuck all of that into the 1996 pump housing. I measured everything and it all clears so I might get lucky. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530239 |
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https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319
https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 So you are supposed to fill the pump with fluid then reassemble. Well this one time (my first time) I put the front pump seal in between the pump halves. I DIDNT READ THE MANUAL. Boy was that a stupid mistake. You are supposed to put the front pump seal between the pump body and the transmission case. That was 1 transmission r/r I won't soon forget. Anyhow here is an ignorant kill bill moment. I poured fluid into the pump. Well I realized I poured fluid into the hole where the pump bolts go. Don't want fluid in there so as you can see, theres an air nozzle virtually shouting at me. Slow motion 110psi into the bolt hole at full force. Sometimes theres little blow-off valves built into our lives that say GO TAKE A SANDWICH BREAK STAT! In the following images you can see the reverse input drum clutch pack. If the snap ring breaks you can kiss the clutches goodbye. They are next to some used ones I have on hand. The picture after that is the front planetary. I was looking at the nubs that the 3/4 clutches use to lock onto the front planet like wtf where did they go. I look at the planetary and you can see the gouging the clutches did. I went ahead and set them aside for another used set I have in good shape. Now I noticed some slight wear on my new used 3/4 clutches too so what I did was A: replace the worn part with a spare I had on hand, and B: align the clutches so that the unworn side faces the thrust side of the front planetary. This will basically reset the wear pattern for the clutches and should extend their lives. They measured at .035inches. My book says .060 is the ideal target with .030-.072 within range. I'm not sure why they err on the side of loose but I do not have the ability to adjust the slack anyhow. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 Well here is my stack of parts, I'm closing up shop for the night, showering off the blood, typing this up, and hopefully selling some stuff on the classifieds. Need some trans parts! https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 Tomorrow I'll rip into my 94 trans for the beast sunshell and my delco 5 pinion planetary. Might have better clutches too. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 So I haven't updated despite working solid since my last post. I just got my camaro LH manifold in the mail and was test fitting the engine into the bay. I work in a sandy dirt yard and my 5 hens use the "scorched earth" method of finding snacks so it is a barren wasteland out here. I have to use my wifes tahoe to push my Jimmy forward inching it along as I work the engine into the bay. The sadness of a poor man indeed. Anyhow I say Hey beautiful wife, mind bringing the tahoe around so I can test fit this manifold? She hops in the truck, I walk around to the side of the house to open up the gate and watch in horror as she gets into the truck, starts it, puts it in reverse, releases the parking brake then screams and runs out of the tahoe. It rolls back as I yell HIT THE BRAKES. Half a second later it smashes in the corner of my house. My rage-o-meter is bouncing off of the limiter, I walk over and yell at her to move and go inside and make sure the house isn't on fire from electrical as she has just pulled a Kool-Aid man into our spare bedroom in a location I know electrical exists. As I'm yelling I say "there was a ****ing roach wasn't it". I almost nailed it. A bumblebee went into her ear as she released the parking brake. My anger lowered rapidly as I recalled nearly taking out a bus stop worth of kids when one of those southern flying cock roaches decided to start crawling up my pants leg while driving in the rain. So I spent the rest of that day repairing my house, which btw **** VINYL SIDING. She split the 2 stacked 2x6 beams that make up the corner post of the house, wiped out an electrical junction, backer board, half our rose bush, and the vinyl siding corner piece. The tahoe has no damage besides rose bush goo on the impact strip. Ooh and I got it all on surveillance cameras. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 So back to happy things, I GOT MY LH MANIFOLD IN!!! woo hoo it looks awesome. Gonna dump from the collector to a 90* it would appear above the diff then follow standard routing. Instead of a y pipe it will just run parallel with the RH manifold into hopefully the suburbans stock catalytic converters modified to fit where my single 4.3 cat resides currently then finally dumping 2-1 into my thrush stainless muffler and out the rear via 3" mandrel down pipe. So I don't have an answer for the RH manifold yet, I'm hoping I can fit my angle milled vortec manifold there because I'm not liking this "offset hole" crap I'm reading about on other swaps. Evidently the camaro manifold has a wider bolt to the head in the back that my vortec heads lack which creates an exhaust leak. I also finished converting/rebuilding my suburban transmission. Waiting on the ac delco converter input shaft seal in the mail. Using the 3/4 clutches it already had and robbed a bunch of good used clutches/steels from my collection. This trans has LOTS of bad parts inside of it. I'm glad I went through it now. So I guess once I can set the engine into the bay with exhaust manifolds that will clear I'm almost ready to knock out my wiring! Ooh and that leaves the oil cooler adapter unsolved as of yet. Well damn. Ooh and that fancy schmancy canton oil pan I can't afford yet. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530319 |
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Alright, using a large rachet strap and some yelling I was able to maneuver the engine into position. The camaro manifold fits absolutely fantastic. I don't see any issues with my column shifter or the steering shaft. The largest concern is with the exhaust shop routing a collector after the flange above the diff. If they can pull that off I think they can handle the vortec manifold on my passenger bank as well. I did have to grind off the square bits of the top of the manifold as they hit my valve cover. I also am not particularly excited at the prospect of having the exhaust roasting my valve cover gaskets however they are pretty simple to replace if that becomes an issue.
Scored this brand new GM manifold on ebay for 50 shipped! https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums...psoaw0z5lc.jpg https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums...psfo5fajj0.jpg Attachment 30871 Attachment 30872 Did the easiest v6 to v8 conversion step there is: Remove the heater hose fitting from the v8 with a 33mm socket, place it in the nearest scrap pile. Use the correct tap to chase the threads in the intake. (If you have worked on a few 96-99 vortec v6/v8 you have probably had to ez out the old pewter heater hose nipple, I sure as hell have) Once the threads are clean and happy, use compressed air and blow all of that metal into the engine like my dumbass did. (she will earn her flush) Pull the stock 4.3 heater hose fitting, use a wire wheel on your bench grinder or if you are poor like me, use a metal brush and clean them threads! Dab some permatex thread sealant, install to HAND ft lbs and celebrate. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 I then mocked up the engine mounts better. The oil pan does not clear my front diff despite having the rough country 2.5" lift. Even at the top mounts the pan interferes. If you were to have a v8 mount which looks to me like another .5 to 1 inch of clearance I doubt you would clear the diff. I'm just going to have to buy the canton pan. My front timing cover and pan gasket obviously leak already so there is that. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 Ran my stock 4.3 cpi throttle cable to the v8 intake using the v8 intake throttle cable assy. Pretty simple mod to get r done. Used my grinder, until the slit cleared the plastic snap. Once that was done I used a sharpie to drill the plastic snap piece that locks it into place. Used a 1/8 bit as a pilot hole because I broke the tip off of my 5/32 bit that matched the size of the plastic snap lock thing. Slid it into place and it locked perfectly. My cable was in the truck when I bought it at 150K It's got 273k and I've not replaced it. It probably has some stretch about it. Which makes the fit PERFECT. Any looser and I'd have to mangle the bracket to lengthen up the cable which sounds not fun. The throttle pedal feels perfect throughout her travel from 0-100% verified with wife in the drivers seat. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 I took the mount brackets to the grinder and removed the high mount option. You can't use the low mount option without grinding it off, otherwise the mount plate just hits the frame. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530360 Neighbor has a 99 suburban that has a p1870 code, bad front right speed sensor, and misfire on #6. Might be able to finagle pan $$ for the labor. I just hate setting the precedent to my neighbors that I will fix their cars. Too bad I don't have any spare 96/97 valve bodies lying around. Although I read the sonnax mega spring is supposed to help band-aid the slip, I might charge to install that. |
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Youtube of my house being attacked by a GMT400
Had a kickass productive day today. Mounted the 99 black box pcm up where the reservoir goes. Not sure how to attack a new reservoir but its' just a bottle with a tube in it. Can't be hard can it? Attachment 30850 Canton pan is in! I hope this part helps guide some people on installing with this pan. I've already run into MANy issues. You will need the canton pickup tube if you have a vortec v8. The stock pickup interferes with the pan. Dipstick tube. Trying to drive the stock dipstick tube into my pan goes full stop. I think it hits the crank scraper. Plug the stock block (use a 4l60e 3/4 accumulator cup plug and rtv) and buy their 60 dollar dipstick setup. My stock 5.7 tube was broken from the start although it would have worked perfectly if I had clearanced the scraper. Damnit. Attachment 30851 Attachment 30852 Attachment 30853 Attachment 30854 Attachment 30855 Attachment 30856 The 5.7 windage tray won't fit with the canton pan. Attachment 30857 Attachment 30858 Attachment 30859 Attachment 30860 Attachment 30861 I'm pretty sure we need to use the stock pan rails. Well Canon failed to mention that the drivers side won't fit without clearancing it with a grinder. Attachment 30862 Attachment 30863 Attachment 30864 Attachment 30865 https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums...psch3rkvix.jpg Attachment 30866 Attachment 30867 I forgot to drain the engine oil first before flipping it over. The first startup will be fun. Mosquitoes should be out by then so at least I have that. Attachment 30868 Attachment 30869 Attachment 30870 |
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My pictures are getting a bit out of hand. I got the transmission and transfer case installed today with my wifes help. I work on dirt on the ground with no shade. Jacks are useless. Damn glad I have a truck tho.
Ran into a BUNCH of little dramas but nothing a little yelling and a grinder won't solve. Firstly the suburban trans has these little "ears" on the left and right sides of the case. Had to grind off the one on the drivers side because it was interfering with my fancy tcase support brace that goes from just above the encoder motor to the bellhousing upper mount. Heres a pic of the passenger side thats going to get ground off as well. (It hits my passenger brace) https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530456 Stuck in the 4.3 transmission dipstick tube and it completely interferes with the vortec's coil. Tried to mount the suburban dipstick tube with no success as it hit the firewall. Decided to install the front and rear driveshafts. The front shaft was too short and the rear too long. I quickly hopped from beneath the truck to confirm my hope: the engine is slid about an inch rearward. I used a prybar against the tcase and pushed the engine forward to the maximum the mounts will allow. This made the driveshafts line up perfectly. Then I mounted up the rear crossmember that supports the trans. That was a fight. The engine still really should move forward about 1/4 of an inch but appears to be in an acceptable position. Anyhow, the pan is 1/32 of an inch above the centerlink and riding on the front differential albeit just slightly as confirmed by reducing pressure via the jack. If I had not had the RC 2.5 lift this would never have cleared anything as my diff is dropped down 3/4 of an inch if not more. The 1" body lift does make life significantly easier. Anything taller is a waste and lower would suck. I'm going to install some 1/4 washers between the mount plates to the block on both sides to raise the engine. I've ground down my mount adapters as the upper location is still too damned high for my taste. I feel that 1/4 of an inch lift is all I'll need and if I need more I can always add a washer or 3 between each plate. The 96+ range switch makes my shift detent lever wide enough to hit my damned front driveshaft. It stops me from placing the truck into park. I'm hoping the 1/4 inch engine lift will bring the driveline up enough that it will clear and if not I'll get out the grinder. I have noticed that newer prop shafts are much thinner than the one I have so if it rubs too much I may just buy a new shaft. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530456 Here is how my camaro manifold looks. (Cramped but functional) https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530456 And here is how the milled vortec passenger manifold looks. Still have about 1/4 of an inch to move the engine more towards the driver to clear the passenger manifold and the 1/4 inch lift the engine is getting should make it clear. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530456 Transmission carry handles: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530456 Cadillac Pimpin power steering pully https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530456 My first completed wiring circuit: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530456 |
To keep my camera clean (which is my nexus 5 phone) I park that bastard at the top of my toolbox where nothing is ever placed. I then stop everything Im doing and go wash my hands then take pictures. Its not ideal because I often stop everything Im doing and frequently lose track of my focus. I however have learned that it will all be worth it in the end from other projects Ive done.
I also realize that my specific v8 swap is rather out of the ordinary both in parts used and end goals. Seems that most swaps done with proper fuel injection are relegated to 2nd gens. 1st gens get carbs and huge exhaust systems. While the difference between models is minimal from the outside, it is quite significant internally both mechanically and electronically. I dunno wtf the deal is with the phpbb settings but Im a grown man using Chrome. Perhaps they haven't tested it outside of the blue e. I just make sure to copy my posts into google keep before attempting a submission. I decided to post my build log here because this community is far better than s10forum or syty.net in terms of concentration of asswipes. So far I havent run into any "you need to do it my way if you aren't retarded" or " I HOPE YOU BREAK YOUR FRONT DIFF BOOST LAUNCHING" like I ran into during my supercharger build. Half of a build log helps others, the other half helps the builder so its a give/get relationship no doubt. Anyways Ive got a 99 suburban to tame today, should be getting paid around next week to finance my next and hopefully final engine pull/reinstall for front timing cover, timing set, oil pan gasket, pickup tube, and hopefully my old 4.3 dipstick tube after i clearance the pans crank scraper. Im so close to hearing her run!!! |
Originally Posted by wildBill83
What made you chose IFS with a lift over SaS?
I envy your cast iron front diff... We did several trails out in moab with a friends FJ before the lift and 31's and I did just splendid. The only difference I could see with his tires were 2 times I had to get out and put 3 nearby rocks beneath my front tires to climb over ledges. Otherwise the tires were just trying to climb up a vertical wall as their were too short to grab the ledge. Most of the trail riding I've done doesn't require a massive lift or huge tires, just a skilled driver, driving carefully and considerately. I also really enjoy how low-pro my truck looks. I want to keep the thieves at bay. Noone wants to break into a 94 jimmy these days. The bumpers I'm wanting might lure some in but I'm working on designing that part in too! Okay so today I felt tired all day. Got my air cleaner finished. While back I hit the JY looking to change air cleaner assy for my supercharger and bought 5 different setups. I ended up cutting one up into an angle and that tightly fit over the maf and stock 4.3 cpi air cleaner box. I'm hoping it looks OE. I don't want any special appearances under this hood. The milled passenger vortec manifold will need another 1/8 milled off to clear the frame. So in total 1/4 off of the bottom and 0 on the top should make a vortec passenger manifold clearance the framerail. The drivers side is mission impossible. It's just way too damned wide. This is with the engine in the center position however the new issue I have is clearance with my park pawl hitting the front driveshaft. I'm going to clearance it with a grinder. If that won't do it, I'll just buy the smaller diameter front prop shaft I've seen around on ebay. Should work just fine by grinding though. This issue is caused by the 4l60e range switch that makes the shift pawl sit almost 3/4 of an inch wider. Then theres the whole "powertrane motion separate from the chassis and frame that I'll have to contend with once shes on the road. I can't wait to have those problems! |
Simple update today. Ordered the oil cooler adapter from ebay with 6 months no interest. I keep maxing out my $600 paypal credit as I can afford to pay it down and buy more parts.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ha...-size/5-7l-350 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fr...5-bl/overview/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200076b 170 bucks in fancy aluminum to make the stock 4.3 oil cooler setup work. Passenger manifold is at machineshop for another 1/8 milled off. The lower flange stud hits the frame if you wiggle the motor and the nuts would never clear. That 1/8 milling should bring the manifold to damn near into the block, bring that stud out enough to clear with space for the nut and not smack the frame. Once thats confirmed I'm celebrating my ass right over to the exhaust shop to see how bad the damage will be for them to go from 2 manifolds to 2 cats to a y pipe joined into a single stainless thrush muffler. Then I'm going to have them weld in bungs for 4 o2 sensors. Going to run my wideband somewhere, not sure if I want to simulate bank 1 or 2 or just run 5 o2's. Seems a little excessive and space consuming. Not even sure the stock drivers side o2 on the manifold will clear a sensor with the steering shaft there. That will suck because it's a really neat spot otherwise. Ordered the 3/4 to 5/8 aluminum coolant fitting to make my heater core hook up to the new dual stage thermostat the vortec brings to the table. Then I need to find a nipple to cap the heater hose outlet on my 4.3 radiator to complete the cooling system. Not much progress directly, just research and ebay/craigslist it seems lately. |
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Did some more electrical routing and went ahead and tossed the core support back on for mockup purposes. The water pump clears the rad by roughly 1/2 inch. This is with the engine in the "stock" position. I didn't want to mod driveshafts. (and still don't)
Got my wideband bolted into the camaro manifolds o2 sensor port. The wideband is smaller than a standard v8 o2 sensor so that rocked. I'm going to attempt to use the widebands narrowband simulation to feed the ecu for that bank however if that doesn't work I'll just go to the muffler shop and have them toss in another sensor. I really don't want to do that though. 5 o2 sensors is lame. The ac lines look like they will route alright but I'm not so sure they won't hit the damned hood when I close it! I don't see much opportunity for persuasion in there either. Ooh and my home made air cleaner elbow FITS LIKE A GLOVE!!! I really think it looks ugly and stock. I hated the blue hoses that the supercharger came with: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530683 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530683 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530683 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530683 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530683 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530683 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530683 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530683 https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums...psud5l0dtg.jpg |
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How indeed!
My fenders are only using a few bolts to hold them on. I just needed to have them inplace to get wiring mocked up and wasn't sure if they would come back off. I slid the core support into the LH fender, then spread them apart to fit the RH side in. Once that's complete I lifted it up and slid in the 1" body lift spacers. Got a bunch of little things taken care of today. Picked up the manifold from the machine shop. Total meat was 5/16 removed from the bottom of the manifold 0 at the top. This gives stellar clearance. Milling alone however is not enough. Now that the exhaust is milled I have a gap at the bottom of the ports because the bolt holes through the flanges are now at an angle from having the flange angle changed. I'm going to drop the manifold back off at the machine shop. (I'm 8 hours debted to the machine shop so far.) Get them to either A: enlarge the diameter of the bolt holes or B: match the holes relative to the new flanges angle. I barely speak engineer or machinist so bear with me (I got pics of course). I'm sending the manifold to them with a vortec head so they can see exactly what I'm dealing with and how to make it right. Hopefully they have them back in a few days because the exhaust is ready FOR THE EXHAUST SHOP!!!! Once the exhaust shop is done, I'll haul ass back home and start wiring everything up. By the time the exhaust guys get done I should have already R/R the engine completing that portion of the build and just focus on electrical. My financial situation means I can't afford ANY extra shenanigans. Hopefully the hamburgers racing adapter bolts right in with no sass and I can bolt up the stock oil cooler lines. Toss in the trans lines and route them all pretty like like I had before. I'm going with the snap in lines on the 99 because I always hated getting a line wrench up there to remove them. Never have an issue getting those snap fittings in and out though. I'm hoping to have my first test drive by this time next week which gives me 2 days to panic stress and make my trip deadline and coincidentally marks the 2 month date since I began this project. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 Got my radiator warranteed out! That gives me a free cap for the heater hose bypass. I removed the stainless clamp and installed a gm spring clamp. <---- A fun point of contention to argue... https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 What the hell is the secret to this bunghole design: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 The instructions are pretty clear with where to lay the bead. They provided some blue water pump rtv but... this is an oil pan gasket... So wtf? Should I just substitute the instructions with some of my ULTRA BLACK!!!??? Finally I spent about an hour figuring out my nearly worthless spare tire holder on the rear. I've always had issues getting the latch to work with mine and most of my friends have issues with theirs, just compensate by slamming the hell out of the gate. This causes the sheet metal in the tailigate to fatigue and crack. My last tailgate was cracked completely in half on the inner steel and all of the reinforcement brackets. What I realized was happening is the mark you see in the first picture just beneath the bolt in the center of the photo the Oklahoma shaped piece of metal hinge that hte release mechanism attaches to has closed too far. This places the plastic circular bushing in the path of the latch mechanism when closing it which prevents it from locking up properly. Force helps compensate which explains the damage you can see just beneath the bolt on the right side. The solution was simple: Just use a hammer/punch and smack the latch back far enough so that when you release the handle it stops where mine is. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 I skipped a day of updates so here they are: Started working on cooling hoses. The upper rad hose from my stock 4.3 is a perfect fit. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums...psyzjbzjqk.jpg The parking pawl issue: Caused by the range selector switch on the 96+ transmission. By being wider it hits the front differential when going into park and is pretty damned close in reverse and drive. I used the good ol s10 blazer v8 swap tool of choice and did some customizing. Notching out the part that contacts the shifter fixed everything. My engine is in the middle position. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530768 |
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Dropped off the manifold at the machine shop for (hopefully) the last time. The manifold clears with the engine in the same position the 4.3 was in. I didn't move it up/down/left ORRrrr right. Angle milling changes the fastener holes and where the head of the fastener holds the manifold down so now that the 5/16 milling off of the bottom and 0 on the top is final, they are going to clearance the bolt holes and where the bolt heads go so it should be sass free.
I can't be certain how my wiring will be until the exhaust is in position so I've done most of what I can. I pulled the engine back out today to install what could have been the biggest hold up, the pickup tube. The 4.3 pickup tube was perfect. Don't waste your money, just reuse the 4.3 tube. It's an inch from the bottom of the pan and clears the canton pan flawlessly. Once that was done I installed the felpro pan gasket, gm performance parts single roller timing set, and timing cover. Well I ordered the wrong timing cover from rockauto. I got the one with no sensor hole. Damnit! So I hit oreilly and grabbed a dorman. Of course one of the bolts broke off inside of the block. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 I couldn't make the stock dipstick tube work with the crank scraper in the new pan and the angle milled manifold and still clear everything comfortably so I used a plug from a transmission rebuild kit and plugged the O.E. dipstick tube. Ordered the canton racing tube, hopefully it gets here before I drive cross country... https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 Single roller gm performance timing set is pretty sweet: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums...ps5eqxwvln.jpg I had to use the grinder here, the brace was hitting the pan there. I also had to grind further on the opposite side because it was still interfering with the pan. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530864 Got my spare mounted/balanced for 8 dollars. Some crappy 31/10.50/15. Nothing fancy. |
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I ordered my pan powdercoated black from summit for 239 out the door. I didn't want the pickup tube/dipstick because I wasn't sure if I would want/need them.
Today was going awesome until the oil filter adapter arrived, then it turned into WELLLL SHIIIIIIIIT https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430530937 Why was I even born? TO KEEP SUMMIT RACING PROFITABLE THATS WHY! So the solution is to spend countless millions of dollars getting those lines back to how the stock lines routed. My departure date is just 8 days away and I kind of need to be able to start the truck when playing with the wiring. The oil system on this truck has been the single most challenging part for me personally. Everything else was pretty simple. If it was complex I just go grab the grinder. I am using the 99 suburban trans lines and they fit like a glove. A glove you have to bend... but just a little above the front differential axle shaft. |
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I am going to install my pioneer thread on oil filter adapter to the block and hit Oreilly for a really short filter. Will fix the oil filter crap later and I'll try and return this really sexy crafted hamburger block adapter. Gonna have to do some cleaning to make her pretty enough to get my money back on.
REREREnstalled the engine today for hopefully the next 50k miles. I think thats a reasonable life expectancy. Oil filter adapter fittings arrived a few hours before the tragedy that is the oil filter adapter. Also got about 200 feet of varying lengths of high quality nylon corrugated split loom and super 33+ electrical tape. This stuff is priced insanely high but it's absolutely the best electrical tape I've used for underhood applications. Traded a customer computer repair for a full body massage. Stuck the table in the middle of my living room. It was my first time and it was pretty awesome. Except my sinus infection. That part was lame. I need this project to be done with. I'm starting to get burned out. I think my next engine swap will be an atc90 engine into my atc70. She needs a little more grunt and low range capability. It would be nice to have a 2 day motor swap project instead of 2 months. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 Got blue rtv coming out of those 3mm holes this front timing cover design neglects to seal off on it's own. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 Factory dipstick tube hole blocked by the canton pan. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 Removed the head plug and installed my old 4.3 knock sensor. I hope it works/fits. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 Spent an hour grinding the ear off of the transmission to accomodate my passenger side brace. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 I failed to do some basic checks like... check trans cooler line clearance. So that was a waste. Brace was removed. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 My excitement, I couldn't even make it into the shop to see what 130 bucks worth of aluminum feels like. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 DAMN https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 Lines probably won't fit routed like this https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531035 |
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I am going to install my pioneer thread on oil filter adapter to the block and hit Oreilly for a really short filter. Will fix the oil filter crap later and I'll try and return this really sexy crafted hamburger block adapter. Gonna have to do some cleaning to make her pretty enough to get my money back on.
REREREnstalled the engine today for hopefully the next 50k miles. I think thats a reasonable life expectancy. Oil filter adapter fittings arrived a few hours before the tragedy that is the oil filter adapter. Also got about 200 feet of varying lengths of high quality nylon corrugated split loom and super 33+ electrical tape. This stuff is priced insanely high but it's absolutely the best electrical tape I've used for underhood applications. Traded a customer computer repair for a full body massage. Stuck the table in the middle of my living room. It was my first time and it was pretty awesome. Except my sinus infection. That part was lame. I need this project to be done with. I'm starting to get burned out. I think my next engine swap will be an atc90 engine into my atc70. She needs a little more grunt and low range capability. It would be nice to have a 2 day motor swap project instead of 2 months. Attachment 30834 Attachment 30835 Attachment 30836 Attachment 30837 Attachment 30838 Got blue rtv coming out of those 3mm holes this front timing cover design neglects to seal off on it's own. https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums...pshogaacpr.jpg https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums...pspsy4otpl.jpg Attachment 30839 Factory dipstick tube hole blocked by the canton pan. Attachment 30840 Removed the head plug and installed my old 4.3 knock sensor. I hope it works/fits. Attachment 30841 Spent an hour grinding the ear off of the transmission to accomodate my passenger side brace. Attachment 30842 I failed to do some basic checks like... check trans cooler line clearance. So that was a waste. Brace was removed. Attachment 30843 Attachment 30844 My excitement, I couldn't even make it into the shop to see what 130 bucks worth of aluminum feels like. Attachment 30845 Attachment 30846 Attachment 30847 DAMN Attachment 30848 Lines probably won't fit routed like this Attachment 30849 |
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Originally Posted by bikerzed
uhlhazard - first off, awesome thread. Though you really should add a warning to the thread title for 56k users. I've got high speed cable internet and it still takes some time to load all the pics. :D
I've got a question concerning your oil filter adapter issues. If you took something like this (link below), and bolted it to the original filter adapter, would that fit/clear? And would the 4.3 oil lines thread into the 350 adapter? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-1204 Sorry for the thread jack, and good luck getting it finished on time. :thumbup: Now on to today's agenda. Oil filter: "solved". transmission: done transfer case: done power steering: done water pump: done drive shafts: done fuel hard lines: bleak transmission lines: promising cooling lines: done I didn't get many pictures up today. Lots of work getting knocked out I promise. Instead of panic spending my life savings I just went to oreilly and put on an oil filter. They sold me the wix. I said " its too damned big". It was. Sorta. Got the WIX installed, scored the hell out of the paint against hte front driveshaft that the filter will hit if it is rotated. (so no 4x4 with this filter). I then was like "this solution is ****". Opened up chrome, my 63 research tabs fire up and I happen to land on a picture of an HT383E engine block with the cutest little oil filter. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531251 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531251 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531251 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531251 I did some more research and found out that filter is called the PF454 and is a bolt-on to my v8 block. It's a good inch shorter than the wix and gives me 3/4 of an inch from the front diff. Awesome. Then I clearanced the water pump until I hit the shaft. I hope the engine doesn't move forward 1/2". That would suck to the tune of about 140 bucks, and a gallon of coolant. And a tow. And shame. Then $$$ for a mercruiser pump. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531251 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531251 |
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Heres how I loaded up the core support with the inner/outer fenders installed:
Attachment 30829 Attachment 30830 Attachment 30831 Wedge it in. I'm pretty sure if you have just looked at the pictures in my build log that I'm not a guy that gives a ford about appearances. Heres an hour of work doing electrical: Attachment 30832 Ran the wiring from the compressor clutch, sensor on the back of the compressor housing, egr, coolant temp sender and harness ground to thermo housing. I terminated the wrap at the junction where the tps and iac valves join and the map/iat for the intake. What I'm doing is using super 33+ electrical tape starting with 2 wraps then going down the wiring covering the entire surface of the wires in tape. I then toss in the high temp nylon split corrugated tubing and tape each end. On the inner harnesses I tape the tubing as well since it helps shape any bends in corners and adds another layer of protection to the setup. Tomorrow I'd like to have my core support wiring done. (mostly lights) The headlights will be a pain in the ass because I have 190 watt hella h4 bulbs in e code housings that will melt the stock harness in short order. Helps to be in a rush. Ooh and finally I wrangled the fuel system in check! Attachment 30833 Engine oil is primed. Wiring is intimidating. Working steady. Back to you Diane. Missed the deadline. Machine shop gave me the manifold 2 days before I had to leave. Brought it home, prepped hte Jimmy loaded up the trailer and got to the exhaust shop 30 minutes before they closed. Picked her up the next day (yesterday) brought her home and started working on wiring. Once the exhaust was installed it's going to be damn near impossible to remove that oil filter. Next few thousand miles will give me time to drive my baby and setup the remote oil filter/cooler adapter utilizing the stock v8 adapter and lines with a cap on the bottom to plug the existing filter port and just bypass to the remote one. Wiring isn't so hard as figuring out where to put everything. I'm trying like hell to run everything in a single loom and still accomodate ease of removal of the harness by placing connectors EVERYWHERE. I want to be able to unbolt this harness from the vehicle if necessary. Not having a deadline is awesome. I made a facebook and spent about 2 hours watching dumbass videos and read probably 30 comments of people whining. Then I decided to get back to work. Got my 4x4 system done, it's autonomous from the rest of the truck. I have no idea how to tell the computer if it's in 4 lo or 4 hi. It might not even work since the donors a 2wd. Got the evap system all routed and installed to my stock evap canister. I plugged off the vacuum line. I'll be nervously watching that to be sure if it's working or not. I have no clue if my retrofit will suffice. Tomorrow is postcat o2 and precat passenger bank. It's going to be some work. Not a lot of pictures, just a lot of reading diagrams and double/triple checking everything. Got a VIDEO OF IT RUNNING!!! Albeit for about 1 second but still IT RAN FOR A SECOND!!! The passlock is fighting me. I wish I had measured the resistance of the lock cylinder before I had gutted the power train. I'm researching how this garbage works now and will do my best to get it knocked out tomorrow. I need to do some 2hi burnouts in my street! https://www.facebook.com/10000948360...7795664879874/ https://www.facebook.com/10000948360...7796684879772/ |
Put a new starter on her today. She starts in the blink of an eye, its awesome. The p1345 crank correlation error hasn't come back yet. I might have got it closer by replacing the timing set but it still has some oddness about it.
Working on the main power distribution now. Got the winch, efans, alt, accomodations for alt 2, in-cab distribution block (amps and stuff), and some rediculous grounds: 4ga from batt to the alt bracket 4ga from the left side of the block to the left side of the frame 4ga from the right side of the block to the right side of the frame 4ga from the battery to the left side of the frame 4ga from the battery to the core support/efans. Running 2 ga from the battery to the primary alt distribution block (175a megafuse holder alt fused on one side) 2ga from the dist block to the starter (unfused) 4 ga from the alt to the 175a megafuse/dist block Secondary 175a megafuse/dist block. Nothing on the fused side, its setup for the 2nd alt when I can afford the kit. Having some major trans issues with slip. I'm fingers crossed it just needs a good test drive but realistically it's probably fubar. Will take her around the block and try and get it through all 4 gears. Can't do that until I get the steering box replaced so I'm scheduled to be knocking that out tomorrow. Gonna be a real pain in the ass with that huge beautiful engine in the way! Ooh and doing some research on my reverse issue. It might be occuring because I used the wrong valve body gaskets. That will be my first test. |
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Updating halfway into the day. Enroute to advance to rewarranty my gearbox out. Hopefully this one will work. At least I buy my fluids by the gallons now. Sold a 2 bolt main bare 1997 vortec block for 50 bucks and the guy gave me this as well: wtf is it?
https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531505 Totally awesome changing the tach dip switch to v8! https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531505 Then attacking the gearbox: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531505 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531505 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531505 When I ripped my winch controls in half the winch put the whoopass down on my towbar and shackle. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531505 |
It felt awesome to crank her up today. Have an obvious misfire issue. No idea what it is but I'm working on getting some realtime misfire monitoring program to get that narrowed down. She won't give me any codes despite having 0 o2 sensors plugged in however the miss is only evident at idle and if you blip the throttle it responds fantastic.
I can't test the truck under load because the transmission is broken. I went through the gears and noticed that manual 2 works perfect. but 1/3/4/R slip. The newest power steering gearbox feels tight. I can feel the misfire when turning too. It all seems to come back to that. If reverse didn't slip I'd say the trans is in safe mode. Wired the antitheft thing where the old under dash pcm was. Working on the obd 2 port right next to the obd1 port. I still need that for my keyless entry and abs. (both broken) The alternator holds up to both fans like a champ. The motor doesn't bog down either. Pulling over 20 inches of vac in park at idle with both fans on coolant temp at 210. |
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Going to get inspection TOMORROW!!!
I hope they don't lose their **** when they pop the hood! Went to the gas station yesterday in safemode. She ran well got her up to about 65 in manual 2 and 3rd. Asked my buddy to come over and help me with the transmission. Nearby trans shop gave me the "c" and "v" valve body gaskets. Went to pull the trans pan drain plug and it was hand tight (no leaks still though, I'm impressed) Dropped the pan and only about 2 quarts of fluid came out and immediately saw the pwm solenoid out of the vb (I forgot the damned clippie) and 2 of the 5 bolts that hold the pressure manifold on were loose. (the 8mm ones) Replaced the gaskets, bolted the pressure manifold on, clippied the pwm solenoid, tightened the drain plug and cranked her up. No dice but reverse was perfect now. It engaged instantly but still in safe mode. I traced the power wire to the harness at the computer not plugged into anything. Ran a 10a circuit from my relay center and wirenutted it. (can't be wasting crimp connectors until the final connections are made) Tested power everything was great. Cranked the truck up, still safe mode I'm like WTF. Check the scanner, new code saying the force motor had an issue. I go "well **** I must have missed plugging it in". drained the fluid, had the pan off in about 10 minutes. (getting faster) and the force motor was plugged in. 3 seconds later DOH I had not plugged the trans connector back into the trans. Button the trans back up, plug the damn connector in and we have R/1/2/3/4 and lockup @ 75mph tested and confirmed on a 4 mile run. The 1/2 shift at part throttle is perfect, 2/3 is fantastic but at WOT 1/2 is crap and never were able to test 2/3. Not bad with an incompetent trans builder and only using spare parts. I did however use new vb gaskets and fluid. I had to. SO I've spent the rest of the day getting the gauges working, speedo, wideband, and trans temp. Got the running lights wiring fed but no bumper or grille installed yet. I still need to build the headlight harness before inspection as well so that will be a rush job tomorrow. The efan wires are just 2 ground wires that connect the solenoids hanging in front of the vehicle. Going to be rocking manual efans until I figure out how to make my spare garbage into a fan controller. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430531754 |
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I'm DRIVING!!!!!
The first 2 days were brutal. NO AIR CONDITIONING. When I went to have her inspected I still had no o2 sensors connected. Surprisingly with no egr and no o2 sensors plugged in, and timing off I passed the low speed test and failed 1 out of the 3 high speed tests. Went home, stabbed in and wired up the o2 sensors. Attempted to simulate Bank 1 Sensor 1 with my widebands narrowband simulation but the pcm monitors both signal and ground of the o2 and refused to recognize the simulated input keeping both banks in open loop (for some strange reason bank 2 was affected) Drove over to It's Muffler Time and spent another 50 bucks to have 2 more o2 bungs welded on bank 1 sensor 1. Turns out the wideband has to be at least 24 inches down stream instead of 2 inches before the manifold collector. So I installed bank 1 sensor 1 and wideband a few inches apart 30 inches downstream of the manifold in the only feasable place accomodating enough. Got them wired up and sat in the driveway breathing 12.5-1 ratio until BAM 14.7! The engine sounded differently and settled down. Took her for a test drive, trans feels like a stock 99 suburban trans during 1/2 and 2/3 at both part throttle and WOT shifting. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 I then went to Marks Automotive off of 242 in Conroe and he set my CKP retard from the 13* I guess stabbed it to 0*. I noticed no difference in how the truck ran @ 0* CKP Retard however I'm sure it matters, 13* is a lot more rotation than I thought it would be. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 The chickens wiped out a copperhead in the yard which was pretty awesome to find. Poor thing didn't stand a chance against 5 hens in half an acre of dirt and sand. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 Made my way over to my buddies house for her true maiden voyage. 40 miles 1 way in traffic: He has one of the cleanest 2wd 94's I've ever seen. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 Confident from the Titanic voyage I drove another 60 miles 1 way with my trailer to pickup an above ground pool (and a grill) a customer gave me: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 Noticed my LTFT are looking pretty high. Thinking (hoping) it's my FPR: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 It got hot, so I started working on my ac. There are 2 ways I could have attacked this: 1: Run the stock wiring assy and just tap into the low/high/clutch electrical parts and be on my way. 2: use the stock burban electrical system so that the pcm knows wtf is going on and bypass the factory ac controls. Well I think I can get the best of both worlds. I'm going to use my stock high/low/clutch harness but still feed the pcm intel on the condition of the ac. The way I understand it, the pcm needs to know that the ac is on to compensate for a few things: Higher idle, maintain engine speed without spikes in load, and some other such nonsense. (I'm hoping to someday disable the clutch if at for example 90% or higher throttle) So far I have the clutch and low side pressure switch wired up. I have not connected the high side switch or the pcm output. I don't have any $$ for ac right now but I had a working ac system before the swap. I installed the 96 Jimmy's ac lines that go from the compressor to the condenser and to the accumulator. They are broken at the compressor mount so I just put some new seals on em and let it rip. The system wouldn't hold a vacuum, the compressor I had installed was leaking like mad out of the seals. I removed, poured out it's oil into the other compressor (I refuse to buy oil for a junkyard ac fix) and spiked it like a touchdown. I then apologized to the high side switch lurking in the rear and removed that for spare parts. Once the compressor was swapped I put a vacuum back on the system and it was STILL LEAKING! Damnit so using a bottle of soapy water I pulled a vac then dropped half a can into the system. Found the leak on the low switch attached to the accumulator. Pulled it off, threw it across the yard. Replaced the seal and installed the suburbans low pressure switch. Put a vacuum and it held! Tossed in a can of 134 Dupont "for mobile applications" and wondered when the clutch would cycle. The damn suburban switch was bad! I went and found the switch I threw into the yard, cleaned it back up and reinstalled it BAM no leaks! https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 I can't believe that this doesn't leak: [img]https://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/ah258/uhlhazard/T15%20Jimmy%20v8%20swap/IMG_20150501_175827_zpso9njmb9c.jpg [/img] Cold ac! https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 Using my newfound ICE Cold ac I run up to a customers and knock out a few hours of work then drive up to firestone for an alignment about 2 miles out I noticed the tach rise about 300rpms from where it was. I thought "damnit, the trans broke". Drove like normal and when i exited at abot 20mph the engine was quite upset with misfiring. Fired up the ol scanner to confirm my suspicions. #5 wire had died. My shielding attempts were in vein. Bought a new ac delco wireset at oreilly tossed a longer wire on #5 to avoid routing near the manifold and shes back to running like a champ. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1430533639 The v8 idles at 500-550rpm and thats taking its toll on my alternator. Definitely going back with dual alts when I can afford to! What might help though is if the ac is on the engine running at 650 instead of 500-550 would help tremendously as tested via manual throttle override. |
Ordered the dual alternator kit on ebay:
GM 5 7L Dual Alternator Bracket 1996 2000 | eBay Ordered a 2nd advance auto 145A alternator to match my first one that I warranted out a few days ago. Blew out my metering rod seal on my combo valve across town today and limped home with engine braking and gm disk rear parking brake setup (nearly completely worthless) Had it replaced with a spare I have on hand in about 15 minutes. Efan controllers are working alright. I need to run some more wiring so the 2nd controller can read it's own dedicated temp sender for now it's just ac only. Looks like my passenger cv shaft is leaking at the boot. 273K miles isn't bad. Have some clunking noise when braking softly, thinking balljoints but they are both new. |
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42 Attachment(s)
Completed pics first:
https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 Got my dual alternator kit in from a guy named zukaujam000 for $235 shipped. GM 5 7L Dual Alternator Bracket 1996 2000 | eBay The kit is about as minimal as it gets. Zero instructions, and just haphazardly thrown into a box: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 I ordered the 2nd alternator and kit the same day. When the alternator arrived I messaged the seller for tracking to which he did not respond. 2 days later he shipped it. After some careful observation I was able to comprehend how the bracket locates the auxiliary alternator. So basically you get 2 steel idler pulleys (china bearings). A quality gates belt at the correct length. The bracket which is said to be powder-coated, (if so it was done poorly as I chipped it in a few spots locating the bracket with light pressure), and some quality gates heater hose. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 One pulley has a short bolt that you replace your stock idler with. I removed the dust shield from my old pully and installed it onto the new one, probably hard for someone to source those fancy washers but I feel the extra touch is worth charging more $ for to get a complete quality build. Pictured, the kits washer on the left, my old washer in the middle. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 The second pulley has a long bolt, it replaces your left hand stock alternator mounting bolt. The stock alternator pivots left on the stock mount until it's sideways. The other alternator bolts on it's left mount on the right hand side of the bracket. Now both alternators have one bolt into the vehicles mounting bracket. Then the bracket that holds the 2 together goes on. Because I have a v8 in an s-series engine bay I have to build the entire assembly on my "hoofed animal mat" (My buddy got it for me when he worked at the zoo. It's like 2 inch thick rubber and rolls up.) Stuffs awesome. This picture shows how you must align the tips of the alternator case bolts against the edges of the bracket. This keeps the alternators from twisting left or right. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 Some shots from different angles to understand clearances: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 The kit comes with heater hose because you MUST remove your heater hose hardline from the vehicle. There is simply no clearance anymore with the alternator pivoted up. It will need to be pulled to remove the left hand thermostat housing bolt which sucks. they don't think it be like it is, but it do https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 Lots of hose persuasion to clear everything: https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 Used a clamp to securely locate the heater hose to the alternator bracket on the backside. I also used some old electrical loom and fed the hose between the throttle bracket and alternator. Ideally I'd use some of the nylon mesh but I'm fresh out. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 http://i1382.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6d1vcz9f.jpg Once everythings bolted up I noticed that the cruise control cable interferes with the alternator. I used 4 stainless 1mm ish thick washers to raise the bracket up, then use a rat tail file and file down and to the left the throttle body bolt hole 3-5mm. https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 I had to scoot my battery over to the farthest to the left. This will probably only be an issue for the 3 of you with a v8 in an s series and want 2+ alternators. It's a snug fit. I did some power braking and the alts don't seem to bother with anything clearance wise. So there ya have it! https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1431641538 As far as the electrical side of things. I'm just going to tap the single wire from the primary alternator into another plug. That should energize the auxiliary alt however this creates a single point of failure. I'll eventually wire up individual controls for both alternators and remote voltage wires. For now, K.I.S.S. I'm replacing my passenger CV shaft today. Not fun. Spindles off, brake caliper fell twice, pretty sure I've ruined my brake hose on that side. The rain is kicking my ass. Got one of the donors cv shafts bolted onto the diff flange, just waiting on the rain to quit. Also the rough country 2.5" lift upper ball joints are total ****. The way the control arm is designed, the rubber sleeve doesn't seal up against the joint. I know I'll be replacing them soon. |
Nice write up!
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