Project: Katana
 

Alright guys! Its finally that time to trick out the GMC! It might be a bit slow of a build, but bare with me as I am only 18 and I also have long hair (If that matters) =]
Here's what we have to work with: 1999 GMC Jimmy SLT 4-dr
What its getting- Solid FOUR INCHES OF LIFT!!! (Plus lift from tire) Also, BFG mud terrain KM2's, Flowmaster, and other little odds and ends to make it look classy, stunning, quality, and sexyyyy! =]
To be fixed: rear rotor dust covers- they are going to be removed as they have been bent by some idiot auto shop! They rub and it is annoying, so I'm going to chuck em!


So, for starters, ill post some pictures of how she sits now! Enjoy the build! =]

Build postponed- motor blown this morning =[

Ouch that sucks man... what happened?

Yeah, what occured?

-OSS

Haaha, gotta check in with the Guy workinlg on it for me and see what he says...ill call him up today and update you guys =]

Were you just driving along and there was an explosion or something?

Well, I was driving along and then noticed overheating. I stopped and added water and antifreeze...still no luck in saving the motor. So, I ordered a Jasper Longblock! =] It was expensive, but I plan on keeping it for a long tme. Its still getting lifted and its still going to run 31's. It should be finished by the end of this month! Work starts on the 20-22nd of this month! =]

Update- I should have it fixed by the end of this week at the latest. It was a long wait, but once I run it for a week and make sure everything is in check, im going to mount those KM2's and throw on that 4" of lift!

It LIVES! I've had it back for about 3 days now, and it is running PREMIUM! The only thing I had to do was hook up the vacuum hose for the transfer case actuator. Easy. So now, I am debating on tires once again because I am very picky. I WANT the TOYO Open Country MT's, but they are sold out alot of places. BFG KM2's are cool, but I heard bad things about them on ice and in the rain without siping. Any other tires that you guys would reccomend similar to Open Country's? I want a sidewall that is aggressive with bite and looks like the NITTO or TOYO. :icon_playing:

You got it back and then the vacuum hose was disconnected? (just clarifying, my first thought was that you were saying the vacuum hose caused the overheating, haha)

I still don't see those pics, BTW!

Yeah, there is a small vacuum hose that branches off for suction to move the transfer case actuator that was unhooked. If it is unhooked you will hear a mild sucking noise coming from it, your 4wd wont work and your windshield defroster wont blow. It will blow out the front vents instead. Pictures of the truck will be uploaded before work today. Check back around 1:30 =]

The exposure on my camera was up a little high due to a dark Def Leppard concert, haha...more pictures up soon as well! Any requests of certain pictures will be supplied.

Looks pretty good. I'd go with some flares and spacers to move that rear wheel further out to match the front.

Im already on that issue! Haha! With the t-bar crank, in theory the wheels will tuck in to math the rear and kit is still a little too far out in front, then ill space the rear about an inch if needed. Flares would be nice, but im not sure where to get any for a 4-dr and I am definately not cool like warthog. Haha!

The t-bar crank will lift the front end or lower it... how do you figure the wheels will move in or out?

Lift definately- when the tbars are tightened, the a-arms move down pushing it up.

Yup, the a arms move down pushing the truck up... doesn't explain the wheels moving in to be as narrow as the rears though?

Think about those trucks that are built for desert racing. When the load is off of the suspension in the front, (e.g. the truck is jumping) the suspension and control arms extend- in turn, tucking the wheels slightly closer to the engine bay. This also simulates the tbar lift. Just watch a video of a truck desert racing, must be IFS

I don't expect them to be as level with the rear, but they will have less of a difference for sure. Like I said, the spacing isn't that far off, but I will still need spacers.

If I'm not mistaken, those wheels don't actually tuck, the camber of the wheel just makes it look like they do. I believe the top of the wheel is tucked and the bottom is stuck out when they land. Either way, our suspension is built nowhere near what a desert truck is, so you can't really compare it.

On my old 94 Blazer, I removed the bolts from the t-bars entirely and the front suspension lowered but didn't move the wheels in or out at all. Just changed the alignment.

I was speaking in theory. That's just what I was told and the way explained makes sense to me. It was explained because I was about to order 1.5" spacer and they told me to wait because that might happen.

1999 GMC Jimmy build- Project: Katana on Blazerforum.com - YouTube

entire build update in this video.