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Are the center to center distances on the centerlink between the pitman arm and idler arm attachment points the same on the ZR2 and non-ZR2?
Nice job of making your own 1ton idler arm bracket! Were you able to copy one or did have to work out the geometry yourself? I could see either path beibg difficult to get the details correct.
Are the center to center distances on the centerlink between the pitman arm and idler arm attachment points the same on the ZR2 and non-ZR2?
Nice job of making your own 1ton idler arm bracket! Were you able to copy one or did have to work out the geometry yourself? I could see either path beibg difficult to get the details correct.
Yes, appears the mounting point distance is the same but the ZR2 link has the extra hole for a steering stabilizer. The extended distance comes from between the tie rod mounting and pitman/idler points.
I make the bracket by looking at as many pictures as possible from others that have made it or used the Outfitter bracket. I hooked up the system as it should have been stock and then took out the stock idler and installed the new one keeping the center link attachment point the same. Seemed to land at the same point as the pictures that I found. Time will tell. As the new idler arm is a little longer than the stock one, the center link goes out of parallel at full steer but I'm hoping this wont matter. It does turn smooth from lock to lock.
This is awesome. I'm IN the middle of the same project. I'm being a bit more ocd on my frame as I'm building a jig first. I'm also planning a rear gas tank add. I found a place to make custom fuel lines, and I'll use Fords duel fuel tank setup from the mid 90's. My project is taking a lot more time. I believe we will now have a total of 4 of these beauty's in the states when mine is completed.
My post is 98 4 door ZR2 project. Started as a suspension upgrade. It's turned into a full custom build.
Last edited by hurleyii; Nov 29, 2024 at 09:56 AM.
This is awesome. I'm IN the middle of the same project. I'm being a bit more ocd on my frame as I'm building a jig first. I'm also planning a rear gas tank add. I found a place to make custom fuel lines, and I'll use Fords duel fuel tank setup from the mid 90's. My project is taking a lot more time. I believe we will now have a total of 4 of these beauty's in the states when mine is completed.
My post is 98 4 door ZR2 project. Started as a suspension upgrade. It's turned into a full custom build.
Located in BC Canada. Funny thing is that there is another guy in my town that has done the same swap, what are the odds?
Not too many updates other than pulled the engine apart. Had leaks around the timing cover and oil pan. Heads were also weeping a bit so I decided to do the head gaskets as well.
Bought the Energy Suspension motor mounts. The mounting system is difference between the ZR2 and regular S series.
Engine going back together. New head gaskets, timing cover, oil pan gasket, etc.
Engine and trans back in. Was a significant fight to get everything seated properly with the new poly motor mounts. They come with something called a preload plate which makes it nearly impossible to fit. I finally decided to not install the plates for now just to get the engine in. Emailed Energy Suspension and they said the plates must be used so I have no idea what to try next.
Painted the manifolds with VHT high temp paint. It has spotty reviews so I followed the instructions to the letter. We'll see how long it lasts.
New transmission pan with an actual drain hole.
Here's a comparison between the ZR2 crossmember and a normal crossmember.
Projects for this weekend included installation of the transfer case and driveshafts
The whole drivetrain is now back in.
Installed a new 4wd switch on the transfer case.
Also managed to get the preload plates installed for the poly mounts. If anyone ever tries this and needs help, I first installed the mounts without the plates and then removed the top two bolts while lifting up the engine with a hoist. This kept things lined up better while I slid the plated between the block and the mounts. It took a lot of balancing while moving things back and forth. I also bought some 10x1.5 30mm bolts because the double plates shortened the amount of thread holding the mount to the block.
Of course, I can access everything easily right now because there is no body on the vehicle or anything in the way. This would be a nightmare to do with the vehicle all together. Took me about 3 hours to get the plates in and everything tightened down. I also wanted to keep the heat shields in but they weren't too much of a problem and were easy to bend to fit.
Also started fabrication for a brace that will go between the lower control arm mounts. The ZR2's seem to have a problem with the mounts breaking from the frame due to excessive movement. Here's a thread that goes into detail https://www.s10forum.com/threads/ess...lution.825233/ I'm trying to make this brace a little closer to the body and I plan to make a skid plate as well that will cover everything underneath.
Here are a bunch of random pictures that have been missed along the way.
Some of the fuel and brake lines were quite rusty so sandblasted and painted them.
Power steering pump installed.
Gas filler neck lines and brackets. The big filler lines are crazy expensive for what they are.
The fuel pump ring was also super rusty so it was sandblasted and powder coated.
Bunch of other brackets and pieces in the oven.
New fuel filter.
Steering stabilizer.
Steering stabilizer installed.
New transmission mount. This one had an internal locking failsafe mechanism which I haven't seen before.
Bought a set of Rancho RS5000's a few years ago and can't say that I love the ride. Prefer them to be a little stiffer. One of the front ones came apart when I took it off so bought two new front ones and kept the rears. The paint that Rancho uses is garbage so cleaned and sanded all four shocks (new and used) and repainted them. Hopefully they last a little longer. Maybe Bilsteins next time...
Refinished both the front and rear driveshafts and installed new u-joints. If anyone is installing a ZR2 rear end into a regular S-series, you need a conversion u-joint as the 8.6 rear end is a different size. You also need the u-joint brackets that bolt to the pinion yoke as they are a different size as well.