Torsion Crank/Shackles + 2.5" RC Lift combo
 

Hey guys. I've got a 99 Blazer LS 4x4 4 door and I just put some wheels on it today that a customer gave me as trade for some minor work. I had to get 5x5 adapters to fit them which were 1.25" thick and then the wheels had a 4" backspace instead of the stock 6" i think my rims had. SO all in all I've got a 3.25" wider stance which I love visually but as I moved my Blazer to just wash in I noticed something I didn't even account for...

TIRE RUB

My 30x9.5R15 Cooper Discoverer STT's are rubbing at full turn shown in the 2nd pic. So I need some advise here. I already pulled the chrome fender liners off to give it a tad more room and to keep them from getting destroyed but i still need more clearance and I don't want to trim anything so here's my question.

Is there and part of the Rough Country 2.5" Suspension lift that would prevent me from also doing a 1" torsion crank and 1" shackles as well?

I was thinking I could make some quick cash selling some random things that could cover the cost of new shackles and the alignment i would need after the torsion crank and i figured 1" would probably be enough to get me by until I put the RC 2.5" lift next Spring with my tax return. Any help would be appreciated

Here's a couple pics and if you have general questions about my Blazer shoot!

BTW, she's got 234,000 miles on the original motor and transmission!

https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1436837498
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http://s12.postimg.org/ggw9epar1/Blazer2_1.jpg
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30 in tires will fit with no lift, or at least on mine they do! Your problem seems to be not enough back space. Get that right and your hub bearings will thank you, not to mention what it wont do to your scrub radius. Get the tortion bars within the correct "Z" dimention and your CV joints will last longer as well as your ride quality ride quality wont take a hit.

To be honest, I don't see 1" helping too much with that stance. You might want to look into a body lift. They're about $200. It definitely cost's more than a pair of shackles, but after the shackles and paying for the alignment you'll be looking at around the same cost. And your blazer looks amazing by the way! What wheels are those? I really like the look of them!

Yuo can un bolt the inner fender well there and then cut the fender with a sawz all then re attach the fender well. Thats what most of us do. Or a 2 in body lift would help also.

I like those wheels. unfortunately by losing that much back spacing you are going to put tremendous stress on your ball joints, even more so if you crank the torsion bars.

I like the weels too, they would look really good with stainless rivits! Unfortunately they prolly wont work. They might work with an eleven inch lift and a hatchet to the fenders, but I think it is just better to get the correct backspace.

Let common sense prevail.

2" body lift would definitely be more effective, but might still not be enough.


But to answer your question, the RC 2.5" lift comes with it's own shackles so you would be out the money for the first shackles. The Tbar crank won't affect anything, but you won't be gaining an additional 2.5" lift on top of the crank. You would gain an addition 1.5"

Thanks for the advise so far guys. Im not sure what brand the wheels are at all. A customer at my shop gave them to me in exchange for mounting and balancing a few tires. The rims had been sitting in his yard for years and were pretty bad looking. Some sand blasting and paint turned that around.

Im not too worried abour added stress on parts unless itll literally cause them to fall off while driving. But if it just increases the wear a bit more than usual its nothing I wont notice before it gets serious and having a shop that my Dad, Brother and I own its not a problem to fix stuff. I dont pay labor and I get parts at cost, usually about 40% off retail. Also i always put the quality bearings and ball joints in that have nice warranties. No garbage stuff made in China

I think ive come to the conclusion that 1" wont be enough like lazyboyjake mentioned. Also, i cant seem to find shackles or add-a-leaf sets that only add an inch to the back. they all add 1.5-2" so that kinda forces me to do the same in the front or itll look stupid.

I think im going to get add a leafs for the rear that will give 1.5-2" and then just do a torsion crank up front to match. Now im just wondering if ill be able to get 2" out of the stock keys or if ill need to get new keys...

Hmmm this poses another question...

Would it be better for the front end parts to:
A. Crank the stock torsion key up 1.5" and get and alignment
B. Get new keys that allow between 1-3" of lift and stop at 1.5" and the get an alignment
C. MAKES NO DIFFERENCE

just curious if its better to max out the ones I have or get new ones and stay in the middle of the range they can handle. Im new to the whole torsion thing and still trying to wrap my head around how it all works


I added some before and after pics of the rims
https://blazerforum.com/forum/attach...ine=1437290198
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AFTER
http://s23.postimg.org/63fj4qmm3/Wheels_AFTER.jpg
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If it were me I would cut the fender. I know your not worried about wear on your joints but cranking the the tbars will make for a very stiff ride. And chances are after the crank they will still rub when flexing or wheeling. Just my thoughts.. Then if needed you can crank them a little bit

I answered in your other thread.


but it would also help to know how you're going to use your blazer.


street only or playing off road at all?


street only, cranking might be enough to get you clear of the tires.


off road, cranking doesn't help at all as your suspension has the same range of motion and can get right back into your fender in uneven terrain