I just installed a COMPLETE 01 w code engine(27,000 miles) into my 01 s10. Everything works,new cam/crank sensors,new coil/ICM.Had to put a pigtail connector on for the crank sensor(all white wires),and the book shows a pink,yellow,purple wires for the csps. This truck has a purple,yellow and lite green wires instead.
I am getting power(11+/-v)on the green,and .1+/- on the purple and yellow. Not sure which color goes where on the connector,but have tried ALL connection combinations,and still have no spark.
I am pretty solid when it comes to auto repair(ASE Cert),but this is driving me crazy.
ANYBODY got any suggestions? I have been working on this for four days,to the point of a mental breakdown.

 

I Appreciate ALL the Helpful Advice I Am Getting From Blazer Forum,And I Hope With This Combined Knowledge,I Can Get My Truck On The Road.

 

Dav,
some times it takes a little bit for someone who knows what you are dealing with to get on and post. i've been on here for a few months and there are things that i have had to wait for. no one on here wants to give you false information. and if its not correct information, its not intentional. i personally havent done and CSPS or the like so i cant help you. but its not like we are ignoring you because you have a pick up. there are a couple members on here that dont even have S10's anymore. just take a deep breath and someone with know something about your problem. hopefully we can get it resolved.

 

Each crankshaft position sensor is unique and a crankshaft position sensor relearn must be done. The engine must be running before the relearn can be performed though. At this point, you're trying to start your engine with relearn data from your old engine and sensor. The relearn data in your PCM is incorrect with the new crankshaft position sensor. Adjustments to ignition timing, injector timing, injector pulse width, etc, etc, are all based on relearn data. Bottom line, gotta get it running first, then have the relearn done, along with camshaft retard check & adjust.

At the crankshaft position sensor harness connector: The pink wire is hot when the ignition is in the RUN and CRANK positions. Voltage is suppled from the ECM1 15amp fuse in the underhood fuse panel. The yellow wire goes to ECM connector "C1" pin #31. The purple wire goes to ECM connector "C1" pin #28. (Connector "C1" is blue.)Apparently the light green wire is the feed, but with all white wires on the pigtail, who knows which is which. You'll need to match them up with the original connector to be certain. I believe this is how they are wired: There is no question about purple wire, it goes to the center (B) terminal. The pink wire goes to the "A" terminal. The yellow wire goes to the "C" terminal. The CKP circuits operate on a very low voltage and must be spliced properly. Solder the connections using 60/40 lead/tin rosin core solder and heat shrink tubing to insulate them. If the PCM detects a problem with any of the circuits, or the sensor, a DTC will be set in memory, and the SES light will come on.

 

Thanks guys...Im just REALLY frustrated with this truck. I have tried using the ORIGINAL cam/crank sensors,the coil/ICM before I ever put the motor into the truck. This was just common sense to me,but it wouldnt spark.
I noticed that as soon as I put the key into the switch,the dinger sounds off as tho the light switch is on,then as you turn the key to crank,the dinger changes tone. Could this have something to do with the security system?

 

When you initially turn the ignition to the RUN position, (engine off) the security light should come on with the bulb check and then shut off. If the Passlock security system is enabled, the "Security" light will remain on while cranking.

If the crankshaft position sensor, and/or timing cover, is moved, removed, replaced or disturbed in any way, the crankshaft position sensor relearn must be performed. What makes each sensor unique, is the magnetic field that it creates. When the sensor is installed, the field is directed in the "general vicinity" of the tone ring on the crankshaft. It's close enough for the engine to start and run, but not properly. When the relearn is performed, the PCM learns exactly where the field is in relation to the tone ring. The data is burned into a file in the PCM and it remains there until the next relearn overwrites the data. When the ignition is turned to the RUN or START position, the PCM uses the data to base every calculation and adjustment. If the relearn data is incorrect, each calcuation & adjustment will be incorrect, guaranteed.

Stuff to check:
1) Make sure the crank sensor is wired correctly.
2) When the ignition is in the RUN and START positions, make sure there is battery voltage on the pink wire at the following 3 locations:
The crankshaft position sensor.
The ignition coil.
The ignition control module.
3) Make sure the black with white trace wire at the ignition module shows less than 5 ohms resistance to ground at all times.
4) Make sure the white with black trace wire at the ignition coil and ignition control module pulses ground while cranking.
5) Make sure the white wire at the ignition control module pulses while cranking.

Post the results of each test.

EDIT: Don't worry about the camshaft position sensor, it will not cause a no-start condition. We'll deal with that after you get the engine running.

 

Ok....As For The Security Lite,It Goes Out. As For The Voltages,I Have The Correct Voltage At Cam, Crank, Coil/ICM. I do Not Get A Pulse From TheBlk/Wt Wire At Coil Plug,It Stays A Solid On.

I Am Wonder About The Dinger When I Put The Key In.
It Sounds Off As Tho The Headlight Switch Is On,Key Off. Then,As I Turn The Key,The Tone ChangeS To The Normal Key On,In Switch Sound.
I Have A 2000 Astro Van,And It Doesn't Do This,Neither Does My Buddies Jimmy,Nor Does My Other Buddies 1500. Got Me Scratching My Bald Head On This.

PS...I Agree With Your Qoute About Ammo 1000000000000%

 

I Will Do More Checking Tomorrow,I Just Got Back From The Dr. I Have Gotten Sick As Hell Working Outside In The Weather We Have Had Lately Here In Central Alabama. Cold/Hot,Rain/Dry.... Miserable Weather To Be Working On A Truck With No Shop!
Got Shots,Meds And Stuff To Help Luck It's Butt... And, Brother,I GREATLY APPRECIATE you Helping Me With Ths. I Hope And Pray With Your Help,I Can Get This Going.

 

the first thing that came to mind is check for a fuseable link
I myself have been away from the GM's for awhile but I will throw it out there
I remember burning a fuseable link , one of the smaller wires attached at the starter
Cant for the life of me remember the symtoms

 

Keep in mind that the pulses are ground, not positive. Using a test light, you need to connect the alligator clip to battery positive and then probe the wire to detect a ground pulse.

The black with white trace wire should not be connected to the coil. It should be in the ignition module connector and goes to ground, it won't blink. Now, the white with black trace wire goes to the ignition coil and it should blink when cranking. Watch the wire colors closely

Unplug the ignition module connector. Probe the white wire in the connector and crank the starter. Should show a pulse.

Do you have a scan tool? If so, are there any DTC's in memory?