Hi. I bought this not running. The guy (a recent Wyotech grand) put new head gaskets and water pump on it due to coolant in the oil. They put new plugs wires and battery too. It sounded like he put the distributer in wrong which of course he did,
I put a cap and rotor and stabbed the distributer in rite I think. I also put a fuel filter on it. I checked the spark and I saw the plug fire while I had it out. I hear the fuel pump start and I think it's getting fuel. I sprayed starting fluid in it an it sounded better but didn't run. I did start a nice fire though.
This is my problem. It did run before it was parked for over 2 years with water in its oil. They did change the oil and put a new filter on it.
I bought it cause its a friend and he gave me a smoking deal on it it is cherry and only has 140k for miles on it and I thought I could stab the dist. and it would run.
Please help me before I take it to a garage and spend a lot of money and make it not such a good deal.
I am new here so I don't even know if I.ve done this rite and it is the rite place so If I did do it wrong tell me and I will do better next time and I am sure I did.

 

The first thing I would do is get it primed properly per the EDI Engine Timing procedure.

 

Thanks I will try this and get rite back to you

 

Well the distributer is in rite. I check the plug while I had it out. The spark is weak to say the least. Shouldn't it be a big blue arc? It barley makes it across the gap. Could this be the problem?

 

The spark should be nice and blue, but depending on how your grounded the plug, may not be as strong as it would normally be when threaded into the cylinder head. If it was barely noticeable, then you likely have a problem with the ignition system.

Have a read through this thread:
No-Start - Engine Cranks OK - Ignition System Diagnosis

 

I've read your thread about ign (no spark) over and over again but... I don't think it applies the spark is there just weak. What do you mean when you say check for intermittent problem. Could it be the crank or cam possion sensors. I don't have all the scanning tools so what is an easy way to test them? I don't just want to throw parts at it.

 

Have you tested for the spark straight out of the coil pack? How strong/weak is it there?

Some autoparts stores can test the coil and ignition control module so you may want to have them tested.

I doubt that it is a problem with the CMP or CKP sensors as they typically result in no spark.

 

thanks for the advice. I will have them checked and get back to you. That makes sense.

well the spark out of the coil was pretty big and white. I tested the spark out of the number one wire to ground and it was still sort of weak. Or so I think. I will have the coil checked and the voltage control mod checked at the same time since the share a mount. A question about the coil. Does the new one if I have to buy one come on the mount? It is mounted to it. Thanks buddy I just wish you lived closer I would pay you to come over and fix it. LOL.

 

If the spark out of the coil was strong, then the problem lies between the coil and the spark plug in the cylinder (i.e. in the plug wires and/or distributor itself).

 

the parts stores around here cant check the coil and cant do the module either. How do you bench test the coil? I bought a chiltons and it shows a procedure but with a different coil. Mine has a single plug in with 3 prongs. the one in the book shows two different plugs with 2 a piece in them so it is a different coil. I was just going to replace the mod and coil but I dont really want to throw money at this when I am not sure. I have found a cheap parts store on the internet and I have 2 shopping carts going one with all a/c delco parts and one with the cheap parts in it that is 1/2 the price of the name brand one. The part stores around here are to high. I have a coil, module, crank pos sensor, cam position sensor and a fuel pump in it. Could it be anything else or are there more checks I could do? HELP.